Snowman

Sounds like a full tune-up is in order. Plugs, ignition timing adjustment, idle mixture adjustment, fuel filter, and some fuel system cleaner in the tank may help with this problem. I would try all of that before ripping into anything else.

The ticking on these engines can come and go at weird times. Before tearing into the engine, try running a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam additive. It also sometimes helps if you run the engine really hard (like shifting at 6000 rpm) for a while.

It's the ASV, or air suction valve, system. It's supposed to allow air to be sucked into the exhaust to help the cat burn excess fuel better. Take it apart, and there will be some reed valves in there. If yours is making a lot of noise, the valves are probably broken, stuck, or otherwise damaged.

Have you checked the fuse(s) and relay(s) to make sure they're okay? I think the fans are controlled by the ECM on your car, but I might be mistaken.

Have you checked the flatness of the heads? If they're beyond the limit, or if the HG's metal ring has worn a groove into the head surface, they need to be resurfaced by a machine shop. My rant on RTV: There is nowhere on an EA82 Subaru engine that you should use regular RTV sealant (edit: okay, I use in on ONE place as a backup. The pipe that goes into the water pump should have a bead of RTV on it in case the O-ring fails). HG's go on dry, intake manifold gaskets go on dry or get sprayed with that copper spray-on stuff, cam towers and block halves use no gaskets but instead get Permatex anaerobic sealant or equivalent, rocker cover gaskets are rubber so you should coat them with oil or assembly lube but no sealant, and the oil pan gasket should get either Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket or anaerobic sealant on the gasket.

Did they sell those factory ones in the US too? I've never seen one. Here's one from Primitive Racing for $100...

I'm gonna try to get some good pics this winter. I've had snow coming over the hood many times, but I never have a camera with me:banghead: .

Chilton's is full of crap. You NEVER, EVER bleed the brakes with the engine running. Relatively gentle pedal pressure is all you need, and anything above that should not be used. Sounds like you need to bleed the system from the master cylinder back. You can bleed the master cylinder just like the calipers. Have your assistant pump up the pedal and hold it, then crack open a fitting on the master cylinder, wait a few seconds, then close it and repeat until no air bubbles come out. Do this for all the fittings on the master cylinder, then do the same thing on the hill holder valve if your car has one. Finally, bleed the calipers as per the sequence in the manual. If this doesn't cure your problem, something else is wrong. Hope this helps.

No, that won't bolt on. Basically, you'll need a hacksaw and a welder to modify your existing shifter. You can lengthen or shorten the throws by changing the height of the shift linkage mount on the shifter, and you can also change the height of the shift knob, depending on your preferences.

Awesome! Glad to hear it worked out so well for you. If you happen to stumble upon another one, let me know. Lucky b******... j/k

If it has a carb block, then no. If he put carb pistons in a turbo block, yes.

For a school project, I need to get info about the early model Subarus, from the 360 up. I just need to know what years each vehicle was sold in, and if you happen to know which engine came in which car and stuff like that, it would be helpful too. Also, which year was the first for 4wd? Thanks.

That doesn't really count. Everybody knows that Ken is super-human.

Welcome to the board! If the car is in good condition and most importantly has little or no rust, it's definitely worth saving. You've got a few options for getting the car back in good shape: 1. Replace the headgasket yourself. It's really not that hard and is a great job to learn on. A full gasket set for the car costs $175 (use ONLY OEM gaskets, the others are crap, and in most cases cost more), and you could probably do it in a long weekend. Now, this is only a viable option if you are confident that the shortblock is in good shape, and the engine hasn't been severely overheated. The bottom end on the EA82 engine is very robust, but the heads like to warp and crack if they get hot. You'll have to make a judgement call there...if it was overheated once and the gaskets blew, it's probably okay, but if it was repeatedly abused, it'll probably need different heads. Reman heads cost around $200-$300 for a set. 2. Drop in a good used engine after resealing it. You can get engines from junkyards or from board members for a couple hundred dollars. If the engine is a known good runner, this tends to work out well and does not cost a lot. 3. Rebuild the engine yourself. I've done a couple of these myself, and I've come to the conclusion that it's really not cost effective for most situations. to do a decent rebuild costs nearly $1000 for parts and machine shop work. When you factor in your time (I work as a mechanic, and my last one took me one long weekend to disassemble and clean and another very long weekend to put it together and get it in the car), tools you may need to purchase, and the fact that it may not last as long as a professional rebuild, I would tend to lean toward option number four. 4. Get a rebuilt engine from Colorado Component Rebuilders (www.ccrengines.com). They are the best Subaru engine rebuilder, and many board members will vouch for them. An engine for your car would probably be around $1500 or so. It's more expensive, but provides the most assurance that the car will run well for many years to come.

When/where did that happen? Looks like Barnes and Noble, but kinda hard to tell.

Your clutch fork should have two cables going to it, both with an adjustment. The one closer to the tranny is the hill holder cable, which you needn't worry about. The one farther away from the tranny with two nuts (one is 12mm, the other is 10mm) is the clutch cable, and its tension is adjusted by loosening the 10mm jam nut and turning the 12mm adjustment nut. Sorry I don't have any pics of it.

Some of my experiences with a lifted SPFI EA82 that you might find helpful: 5th gear is all but useless in a lifted Subaru. I usually cruised in 4th on the highway unless I was doing over 75 (which was like 10 times in the history of the car) or going downhill. Fuel economy was better in 4th as well. I was running Delta cams and SPFI pistons in my engine both before and after the SPFI conversion, so the timing requirements were different than for your engine, but I was running more advance than stock. I can't remember exactly where, but it was somewhere between 22 and 25 degrees. With lower compression, you should be able to handle more advance without pinging, but I'd just experiment with different settings until you find the sweet spot. This one isn't related to any of your questions, but it could come back to bite you in the a** someday if you aren't aware of it. After I did the SPFI swap, I found that the car would starve for fuel during hard turning or stopping if the level was below 1/4 tank or so. This is because they carbed cars don't have the baffles in the tank that the EFI models do, so fuel sloshes around and the pump sucks air for a split second. I'm thinking about putting in a tank from an EFI car to correct this, but for now I just keep the tank over 1/4 and carry a jerry can with me on long trips just in case.

Okay, well that eliminates the hill holder as a source of the problem. Since it doesn't work in 4wd either, that all but eliminates a stripped hub (you'd have to have one stripped in the front and one in the rear, the likelihood of which is incredibly small). So, four possibilities are left: 1. The clutch is adjusted way too tight. You might try loosening the adjustment all the way and seeing if it still has the problem. 2. The clutch is so worn out that it just slips and the car doesn't go. I'm leaning toward this option right now. 3. The 4wd shift lever is stuck between 4 hi and 4 lo, so no power goes through the transmission. It may not be the lever itself, but something in the linkage that's faulty. Get under the car and/or reach down through the engine bay and move the linkage manually by hand or with a prybar or something and see if the problem persists. 4. Though it is highly unlikely, the transmission could have internal damage. I doubt this is the case, as it would probably make all sorts of terrible noises, but it is a possibility.

ROFLMAO! What fine parts supply establishment is this?

Just buy a set of cheap new or good used studded tires, run them for one season, then pull the studs out in the spring and run then until they wear out.

I think some clarification is necessary here...does it kill the engine when you try to go, or does the engine rev but the car doesn't move?

Sorry, I should have clarified. The voltage drop test is what I described for checking the ground cables, connections, etc. You are checking the voltage that is "dropped" from point A to point B, in a cable, connection, or whatever. The voltage drop is the amount of voltage required to push the needed amps from point A to point B. In a hypothetical situation, if you had a bad ground connection and the battery needs 13.5 volts to charge it properly, the alternator may be putting out 15.5 volts but 2 volts are required to complete the circuit on the ground side, so they don't make it to the battery. In this situation, if you put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and one on the alternator case and set the meter to read volts, it would read 2 volts, which is the "voltage drop". I hope that made some sort of sense.

The rear is different from the front. There's an axle stub on the diff end and on the wheel bearing end. Unless it's frozen on by rust and old age, you can take a rear axle in/out in a few minutes.

I know it's not quite the same car, but the fastest I ever had my 86 4wd carbed EA82 with free-er flowing intake and exhaust was 95.

Try doing a voltage drop test from the alternator case to the engine block and to where the ground cable(s) attach to the engine. If you've replaced the ground cables, that's probably where the issue is. I ran into the EXACT same problem on a bus this summer... no continuity from the alternator case to the engine block resulted in no charge. And as been said by others, a voltage drop test is much better than checking the ohms of resistance. (For example, the tiny current that an ohm meter puts through the wire to test it can easily be carried through one or two strands of a battery cable even if the rest of them are toast, and the ohm meter will still read fine. Testing the voltage drop across that same cable would clearly show that it's faulty.)