Snowman

For a sensor, I wouldn't mess around with putting used ones on. Try 1stsubaruparts.com. They sell genuine SOA stuff way cheaper than dealers. Call their 800 number rather than ordering online.

I ran mine up the pillar next to the passenger's seat, then poked through the window gasket.

If it's a 3-speed auto, 4000 rpm at 65 is normal. It is possible that the disty is off a tooth.

That is incredibly cool. I watched a road race last weekend in which there was an old VW that had a supercharged 6-cylinder Porshe engine whooping on everything else.

There should be several unused holes in the firewall above the pedals that just have rubber plugs in them. Poke a hole in one of the plugs and jab the wires through. There is also a larger hole right behind the passenger side strut where the wiring harness goes through.

Is that an oil cooler up there with the rad?

Are you talking about the two timing belt drive cogs on the front of the crankshaft? Try shooting with some penetrating oil and whacking them a bit more. They can be problematic at times. Maybe a small puller would work?

They're an absolute cakewalk to change yourself. I did my drivers side one 30,000 miles ago and the passenger side one 10,000 miles ago and they're both going great. Take the axle out of the bearings/hub then remove the strut. Pry the old seals out. Get a selection of BRASS drifts. To remove the bearings, use the drift and a hammer to tap them out from the opposite side. Clean the hub really well, as any crap in there will destroy the bearings in short order. Pack the new SOA bearings with bearing grease. Carefully tap the new bearings in by the OUTER RACE ONLY until the sound that the tapping makes indicates that the bearings are bottomed in their bores. My old shop teacher went through 3 sets of bearings in 15,000 miles before figuring out that pounding on the inner race results in deforming the balls (and we don't like deformed balls, now do we? ) Don't forget the spacer! It can be reused if it's not damaged, just don't forget it. I always put a couple nice globs of grease in there with the spacer just for good measure. Tap the seals into place until they just touch the outer bearing races, prelube them with a dab of grease, then put everything back together.

1. Drain the coolant first so it doesn't run down the intake ports. 2. Use only SOA gaskets and don't put any gunk on them. 3. Clean everything really well. 4. Use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts.

Keep up the good work Shawn. I wanna see this thing run!

If you're doing anything more than oil changes and belts, it's worth it to find an FSM for the car. They can be had on ebay for not too much $$$. You can also get FSMs on CD for like $20. I've never tried them, but it sounds kinda slick. Anybody have experience with those?

SWEET! Rock on:headbang:

I really wouldn't worry about a drop a week. And no, there isn't really a fix for this aside from new HG's.

Stickers make cars go faster!

Where's my pitchfork and torch!!!?

Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. Best stuff for case halves (and on EA82s, cam towers). Recommended to me my a long-time mechanic who is now a professor at UAA. It's also what we use on all the Cummins, Detroit Diesel, etc for metal-to-metal sealing.

The need to mod the system comes from the fact that the factory setup SUCKS! It's unequal length, and the 1 and 3 lines pass over the engine and not too far from the turbo so they probably get heated.... I've been talking to my professors here and we've got some interesting ideas. Tex: I like your setup. What did all of that cost you if you don't mind me asking? Skip: So, the injector just turns on once you reach a certain boost level, or what? This sounds VERY intriguing, not necessarily for this setup, but for future use.

I don't think you have to worry about the neutral switch, but I'm not sure. I'll have to ponder that for a bit and maybe try hooking it up just to see what happens. Mine has been running fine for 5000 miles without it hooked up.

Does somebody want to build me a megasquirt?

I'm doing research on what can be done with the fuel supply system on the EA82T. Now, before we get into a discussion of megasquirt, fuel cut bypasses, etc, I'll say that I want to keep the factory engine management on my RX. Since it's getting a carbed short block, I won't be able to boost high enough on pump gas to merit such drastic changes (I'm also a cheapskate). There was a thread a while back about fuel rails for the EA82T. That setup looked promising. How did that turn out? What other mods have been done/conceptualized? Please let me in on your experiences with this fuel system.

Yeah, that wire is ignition hot, and it should join up with several other red/blue wires that also need ignition hot.

SWEET! That's less money that I have to waste. I can't wait to get started on my RX project once I get home. This thing is gonna cook! Just need to do the port work, find an IC, build the header and turbo-back exhaust, and completely redesign the fuel system (shh, that one's a secret).

Aside from making one, I've never heard of anything.

Interchangable as in can I put the wider turbo bearings on my non-turbo rods and crank without any machining of them?

I believe the red and blue wire is supposed to connect to ignition hot, not battery hot. I then checked in the manual and that's what is said. If you can't get is sorted out very soon, I would just grab the whole dash, then it would be a plug-and-play affair.