Snowman

.............(Mutters to himself).............

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was wondering about is if the stuff leaked more. I'm already a firm believer in synthetic lubricants, so I'll probably just stick with the Mobil1 10w-30 since I've had good luck with it.

Here's an explaination I found. I didn't know how it worked either. http://web.ask.com/redir?u=http%3A%2F%2Ftm.wc.ask.com%2Fr%3Ft%3Dan%26s%3Da%26sv%3Dza5cb0db1%26uid%3D093036FD067C8C424%26sid%3D1BDC5B8CD9FBA5524%26o%3D0%26qid%3D7F26D7AF392FCC4DA66D1A593001DDAF%26io%3D1%26ask%3Dwhat%2Bis%2Bshot%2Bpeening%253f%26uip%3D89e5b797%26en%3Dte%26eo%3D-100%26pt%3DShotpeening%26ac%3D24%26qs%3D0%26pg%3D1%26ep%3D1%26te_par%3D102%26te_id%3D%26u%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252fwww.drgears.com%252fgearterms%252fterms%252fshotpeening.htm&bpg=http%3A%2F%2Fweb.ask.com%2Fweb%3Fq%3Dwhat%2Bis%2Bshot%2Bpeening%253f%26o%3D0%26page%3D1&q=what%20is%20shot%20peening?&s=a&bu=http%3a%2f%2fwww.drgears.com%2fgearterms%2fterms%2fshotpeening.htm&qte=0&o=0&abs=Shot%20Peening.%20Shot%20peening%20is%20a%20cold%20working%20process%20in%20which%20the%20surface%20of%20a%20part%20is%20bombarded%20with%20small%20spherical%20media%20called%20shot.&tit=Shotpeening&bin=&cat=wb&purl=http%3A%2F%2Ftm.wc.ask.com%2Fi%2Fb.html%3Ft%3Dan%26s%3Da%26uid%3D093036FD067C8C424%26sid%3D1BDC5B8CD9FBA5524%26qid%3D7F26D7AF392FCC4DA66D1A593001DDAF%26io%3D%26sv%3Dza5cb0db1%26o%3D0%26ask%3Dwhat%2Bis%2Bshot%2Bpeening%253f%26uip%3D89e5b797%26en%3Dbm%26eo%3D-100%26pt%3D%26ac%3D24%26qs%3D0%26pg%3D1%26u%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fmyjeeves.ask.com%2Faction%2Fsnip&Complete=1

Have you ever seen the white plastic hubcaps that came on the RX's?!

Haha, that's great Mick!

I would guess that it's an air vent. My understanding of the purge control solenoid is that when it's activated, vacuum goes to the purge canister, and when it's deactivated, that vacuum must be released. Hence the vent. Dunno if that's true, but that's my understanding of it.

The title says it all. Got any experience with it? I'm thinking about switching to this oil during the winter (right now I run Mobil1 10w-30 year round).

What he said. Also, to avoid any future problems with this part, clean up the quill that the TO bearing rides on using some sandpaper. Also, after helping Matt with the 5-speed swap this weekend, I have concluded that even without an engine hoist, it's way easier to pull the engine than drop the tranny on these cars.

Why not just order OEM rings from 1stsubaruparts.com? Unless you're doing crazy mods, they should be more than adequate, and I would be surprised if anybody makes better ones for the EA82. Actually, you might call up some EA81 aviation guys and see what they've got that might cross over. As far as pistons go, check out subspeed.com and go to the project RX section. The guy talks about getting custom pistons made for his RX and gives the name of the place. Ram Engines sells forged pistons for n/a EA81 engines if you want to go the hi-compression route. I would also look into getting them coated (ceramic on top and oil-attractant on the skirts). For rods, I'd find a set of low mileage stock ones and have them shot-peened. Like the rings, I think the only real possibility for aftermarket stuff would be EA81 aviaton stuff that might cross over.

It's not a pain if you've got a good compressor. See what Schucks has, as these springs don't have much room to get a compressor in there. I could probably do it for you on friday night with the one we've got here at UAA if renting a compressor doesn't work out.

Um, I think the EJ22 came in most legacies through about 96, but I'm not positive.

Let the control arm hang. It'll stay about where it needs to. There may be too much pressure on everything if you are holding it up with a jack or something.

Hmmm.... You've got a good point there about the EA81 being very close to the EA71 in technology. However, sticking the EA82 in with the early EJ stuff would be problematic in my opinion, since they are so vastly different. I think keeping the EA81 and EA82 stuff together is sort of a necessity for a couple of reasons. First, those two models comprise the biggest share by far of the "old school" soobs on the road today. Second, a LOT of technical advice/issues applies to those two models. The cars also share a lot of basic design features that are not common with either the newer or older cars. Dividing up the forums would not be an easy task, especially since Subarus share designs between so many different models and years. The only thing I'm pretty sure of is that the line between "old school" and "newer generation" should probably remain between the EA and EJ series cars, since that was the biggest leap in technology in my opinion.

I'm actually surprised that I don't get more attention here, since there are only two lifted Subarus in the state right now. I guess people are just used to seeing wierd crap up in Alaska (there are some strange vehicles running around here, trust me).

I think it would make sense to add a "much older generation of subarus" forum for pre-EA81 stuff. You are right about there not being too much discussion of early gen-1 and previous models. Most of it gets moved to the second or third page rather quickly, and people don't see it that might have useful input. This would also make more sense in my opinion because the "old-gen" forum is by far the most highly-trafficked and could stand to be divided up a tiny bit. Further, it would seem that having EA71 and previous cars in a separate forum would be a more even division. Right now, the new-gen forum covers the EJ variants, which are all pretty similar (if subaru has another new engine designation, I'm not aware of it yet), and the old gen forum is EA82, EA81, EA71, ER27, EA63, and others that were produced before that, many of which have substantial differences in design. If the old-gen forum was just EA81, EA82, and ER27, and there was another one created for the older cars, the forums would be divided up more equally.

Well that just sucks!

The general rule that I have heard from a lot of reliable sources is around 10psi per 1000 rpm. Although your oil pressure is not stellar, I don't think it's low enough to cause problems.

Could be.

Oh man, I can't wait! Nearly 4000 miles round trip is a bit of a jaunt, but oh well. ALCAN RALLY!

It was backwards? Doh!!!!

I would believe that thinner oil would help with the piston slap issue. It should flow better upon startup. I believe it was Setright that developed piston slap issues after running Redline for a very short time.

That's a good point, Qman. The most important thing you can do when sealing anything up is making sure that it's CLEAN. Any junk in there at all can cause problems.

Anaerobic sealant is what you should use for the cam towers and the block halves. I rebuilt my engine and used that stuff in there, and it finally got a tiny bit of oil residue on the outside of the engine after about 10,000 miles of use. Regular silicone is a no-no for stuff like that, at least in my book.

I'm so glad to hear that it's working out well. I was a bit nervous jumping into the project as well, but it seems that everything fit together without too much trouble. Now we just need to get started on an EJ conversion.... .

As far as I know, you should be able to swap the EJ motors around without any problems. The DOHC models are slightly larger than the SOHC models, and of course if it's turbocharged then there will be more crap hanging off of it. If you leave a few inches breathing room, it should be fine.