Snowman

There should be a plate in the floor right above the tank, but don't quote me on that.

You shall be PMed.

They made some pretty neat amphibs on Junkyard Wars over the years. I was most impressed with the first one, which was an old diesel-powered Land Rover with fuel drums on outriggers. They mounted a prop and drove it with the rear drive shaft. It CAN be done, it just depends on how much money you've got whether it will "work" or actually be a practical vehicle that wouldn't make yacht captains run and hide.

Bump. Hmmm, I guess everybody's busy....

More theoretical ramblings: I don't think you have to remove the tank, but I could be wrong. When I stripped my interior, I found a little removable plate in the floor right above the gas tank. I bet if you take that plate off, you can access the sensors and stuff through the floor.

I have not actually looked into the problem, but here's what I think is going on: The fuel light sensor is probably triggered by a microswitch on a rod with a float attached to it, and is either "on" or "off". I've been told that it's separate from the gauge sender, and a simple switch is probably cheaper than a variable resistor. So I don't think there's too much that can go awry with the light, aside from the rod getting bent or the pivot getting sticky. The gauge should be controlled by a variable resistor with a float attached. When new, the change in resistance as the float moves is smooth and uniform. As they age, the resistance level overall can go up or down (more likely up) and the changes in resistance as the float moves can become less smooth. (My gauge tends to "stick" in some places and go down rapidly in others). Since a fuel gauge sender probably isn't cheap, I would recommend taking it out and cleaning up all the contacts and stuff, as that could be causing your issue here. (I can't justify spending the money on something like that for my car, but to each his own.)

What exactly are you doing to fix this problem? Mine has some slop and occasionally makes some noise (no surprise at 182,000 miles).

Is the light out of whack, or your fuel gauge? My gauge is starting to go wonky on me, especially when it's cold out, but the light is usually right on. BTW: To measure the accuracy, wait until the light just comes on and fill your tank. Total capacity should be 15.9 gals, and the light comes on at 2.4. If you have to add somewhere around 13.5 gals, the light is correct.

Does Haynes or Chilton's cover that? I'll have access to my FSMs in two weeks and could probably scan some pages for you.

That's pretty much what I did, and how I wrote the conversion manual. My SPFI setup is COMPLETELY separate from the rest of the car's electrical system after the battery connection except for the tach and speedo hookups. It was really easy to do that way.

That is just freaking awesome! I want to know about this front LSD. What parts were used and how it was done...if it's not top-secret.

Dude, that sucks! Is the engine okay?

Yes, they are virtually identical.

Just make sure they function the same. I.E. with power on, they both allow flow or block it or whatever...

If this guy is one of the founders of AAA-1, he should be okay. The current owners of the one in Anchorage are greedy bastards, but from the history lessons I've heard from various folks, the original guys were good honest fellows. If the guy does oil changes for $10, I don't think he's the type to rip you off. As far as the car lasting much longer, that depends on an immense amount of variables. If it's got big rust issues, dump it and bring one up from Washington. If it's a turbo car, it's more sensitive to abuse like overheating, but if it's been taken care of, it shouldn't give you much more trouble than an n/a car.

REPRESENT!!!

He he he....

Now I HAVE seen everything! If I ever got my hands on something like that, I would surely die in short order!

An EJ22T out of a legacy has been done, but it would take some work. Whatever you do, DON'T keep the stock auto tranny that's in the brat right now. The 3AT just plain sucks. For ease of installation, cheapness, and decent power, I think swapping in an EA82T w/5 speed manual, and doing some light engine mods would be the way to go.

Rebuilding soob motors does not take much in the way of specialized equipment. If you've got a basement or something, get a hone, spring compressor, and a few odd wrenches and stuff, and you're golden.

On an AWD or FT4wd car, I think the center diff would be destroyed in short order, but a regular 4wd car should be fine. Caboobaroo drove his brat pretty darn hard in RWD and I don't think he ever broke anything.

rofl

People have removed one or both of the front axleshafts and run their cars in 4wd. Haven't heard of any problems yet.

A heat shield and a scoop would probably take care of that hot air problem. Or you could get a set of DL headlights and remove the inner set, then stick the cone filter in there. I've always thought that would look pretty wicked.

Sweet!