Snowman

Check the USRM...there might be something in a Haynes or Chiltons manual about it since they usually put in general troubleshooting guidelines....aside from that, just describe your symptoms here and wait for a response.

Talk to WJM about getting SOA parts...I've found that you can often get subaru HG's for the same or less cost than through NAPA. Good luck with the project, cheers:drunk: .

I think that has a LOT to do with the fact that they sold the Brat/Brumby in AUS for a lot longer than in the US. 87 was the last year in the US right? What was the last year in AUS?

That's definitely something to check while the tranny is out. The vibration stops when the transmission stops, so I don't think that's the problem though.

You have to pull the valves to see if the cracks extend into the ports. What kind of HG's did you use? Anything but SOA tends to be problematic.

What does the green bumper sticker say? I can't quite make it out from the pic. NICE BRAT!

Looking at the residue inside the crankcase as well as on the front of the engine, I wouldn't be surprised if this one has seen a bit of heat, which would explain the seals being brittle.

Yes, I was referring to the axle going through the bearings. If the hub is an interference fit, then something's wrong:rolleyes: .

Also be aware of the fact that the factory gauge sucks. A reading of 0 on that gauge at idle is perfectly normal according to the manual.

That depends...If the car is moving and pressing the clutch pedal makes no difference, then transmission bearings could be the cause. If the car is stationary and it makes no difference when the clutch is pressed, then the transmission is ruled out, since nothing would be moving in there at the time. (I had envisioned all this happening with the vehicle stationary, which I'm not sure is the case.) TO bearing will make noise just as you press the clutch and will usually continue as it's pressed. If properly adjusted, it should make no noise when the clutch pedal is released. Pilot bearing will make no noise when the clutch is released, but will begin to make noise as the clutch pedal is depressed and the input shaft slows down.

I've always taken the strut off with the knuckle. Having the knuckle attached to the strut might help you get better leverage on it. Once you get the axle through the bearings, you can use the castle nut to help pull it farther through. That won't get it all the way in though, so you'll have to pry with screwdrivers and stuff until you can get the hub on and stuff.

I'm going to try a set of those NGKs this summer then.

He said that the noise doesn't go away when the clutch is depressed, so that rules out anything in the tranny.

It's an "interference fit", meaning that you do have to apply some force to get it on. The best way is to get an aluminum pipe that is the same diameter as the inner bearing race, then use that and a hammer to get the bearings to fit over the axleshaft. If you want some help with it, I've got one of those pipes and some time to spare later tonight.

I think they did make a dual carb manifold for the EA71 and EA81. If you could find one for the EA81, it would attach to your engine with minor modifications, but they are quite rare since they weren't sold in the US. I do have one question though: WHY? Either a Weber swap or an SPFI conversion would likely be cheaper, easier, and yield better results. You say that the car is an 88 with an 85 motor? If whoever did the swap left the ECM and wiring harness in the car, converting back to SPFI would be really easy.

Double check your TO bearing by removing the clutch cable and holding the fork so that the bearing is completely off of the fingers. Aside from a combination of a bad TO bearing and a misadjusted clutch, there are NO components related to the clutch or transmission that would cause what you are describing. I think your problems must be coming from elsewhere.

Well, if the gas prices in Homer are anything like Haines (just went over 2.90 this week), and they don't drive a subaru, they're already cursed!

What size are the NGK wires?

I've had good luck with Accel wires. I too bought a universal set for a V8 and made two sets for my car!

I have yet to see an FI subaru filter actually clog. (It's a very common problem on the carbureted models though.) Lasting "the lifetime of the vehicle" when it's a Ford, is not very long.... j/k

You've got the bent-style rear strut spacers, don't you? They need to be swapped out for the straight-style ones. I had EXACTLY the same issue last summer when I installed my lift. The struts bind up and cause the noise you are talking about. The ride was also VERY stiff.

If you've got a gauge that reads in PSI, you can just look up the conversion online. It should be relatively easy to find. (Sorry I can't provide any direct help...)

They should be very similar, as the basic design of the carb changed little. The EA81 will have less "junk" to remove.

I'll try to get a picture up of my fuel filter setup. It's a WIX spin-on fuel filter and water separator (with a drain on the bottom). The filter mounting base was $27 and the filters are around $10. WIX says it's good for up to 400 hp, so I think it just might meet our fueling needs:rolleyes: . It's primarily designed for large marine inboard engines, but can be used on just about anything, gas or diesel. In all honesty, you should not need more fuel than the stock filter can flow. Since it's a pressure-regulated bypass system, most of the fuel that goes through the filter just gets pumped back to the tank anyway. That said, I went with my filter setup for two reasons: It's as easy to change as an oil filter, and I've had lots of trouble with condensation in the fuel tank building up, so I needed the water-separating capacity.

The PCV system is there for a reason. It evacuates crankcase gases. I removed the PCV setup from an EA82 I used to have, and it started leaking oil profusely due to the lack of vacuum in the crankcase (the vacuum helps control oil leaks). I am still perfecting a self-maintaining oil separator that I should have for sale this summer. You should also replace your PCV valve with a new OEM one. Aftermarket valves just don't work as well.