Snowman

The starter should be right there on the top. Whenever I see some GM/Ford/whatever guy crawling under his car to get to the starter, I just have to laugh.

Any of you AK guys up for doing something before I head back down to Haines for the summer on April 30? Maybe in a week or so? I was thinking we could either do some light wheelin' or just hang out or something. You can also get your SKA stickers! Matt, do you know if Jon is still around?

You're referring to the oil return tube? I got mine out using a combination of twisting it with vice-grips and prying with screwdrivers and chisels. Those things are really in there, and it might get kinda dinged up coming out, but some good sealant should take care of that.

That is incredibly cool! I wish this computer had sound, but it was way cool even just watching it.

Hrm, I just bought a case of OEM filters..... Hopefully the adapter I got likes them a little better. Thanks for the help guys! Sounds like low is the way to go. I don't want it out front since the car is an offroader, but I bet I could mount a smallish cooler next to the frame rail on the passenger side. Of course the airflow would be diminished, but the cooler that came with the kit is way oversized for an EA82, so it might work out well in that spot.

I picked up an oil cooler installation kit from Summit, and it looks like it should work well, but I'm wondering about one thing: At minimum, the oil will have to travel an additional 6 to 8 feet before reaching the engine at startup. Now, it does have a thermostatic bypass in the sandwich adapter, but the entire system will have to get pressurized before any oil goes to the bearings and stuff, and that could take a while. I'm not too worried about it during the summer, when the oil will be pretty thin upon startup, but when it gets down to minus 10 or 20, it could take a while to pump the oil through there. I am running Mobil 1 synthetic, which in tests I have conducted flows a TON better than Castrol GTX (my dino oil of choice), so that will help, but I'm still worried that my engine might see a lot of extra wear that would offset the benefits of cooler oil. I know that some people on here have installed similar setups on their cars (cough, WJM, cough), and I'm wondering what your experiences have been. Have you noticed an increase in the time before your o/p gauge rises, especially when it's cold out? Thanks in advance for your help.

I believe I did mine to 55 when I put my engine together, with no retorque. Been doing great for about 10k so far (it's an n/a motor so might not be a fair comparison). I do think I would have witnessed any problems that overtorquing would cause by now, such as distorting the block or pulling threads out, which hasn't happened.

Ditto on the hydrolocking thing. That's EXACTLY what our shop truck (chevy 350) would do when it was losing water into the number 3 cylinder. Dunno if anything else would be hurt from having water in there (like rust on the cylinder wall or putting a heavy load on the bearings during the initial lockup), but if it's cheap, and you can verify that this is the problem, I'd go for it. As to EJ22 swap, It would probably fit w/o much trouble, but I would guess you'd have to swap the entire engine control system.

I can relate to that. My school is finished up until fall on the 30th, and I feel like all I'm doing now is waiting for that day to come....

That is really cool! What's the clearance under those things?

Yeah, it's 22mm. 7/8 is a suitable substitute as well.

That sucks! Oh well, it sounds like it shouldn't be too big of a deal to fix. I think if you take care of those A/F mixtures it should be okay in the future. I bet that's what killed it this time. You gonna do both sides or just one?

A small amount of advance should help with drivability if it does anything. Regardless, you might try playing with it just to see what happens. What problems are you having?

Sounds like it's dumping raw gas down the carb throat from somewhere. If the problem is ignition related, it will cut out and run really roughly rather than sputtering like you describe. My Weber behaved similar to your situation when a couple of backfires destroyed the power valve, allowing raw gas to be sucked into the engine. I'd recommend finding a spare carb for it somewhere (must be from an EA81 car, the EA82's are wider and won't bolt up). If you need to get one from Matt, I could help out with transportation. My night class is basically finished up now, and since I've got the time I'd deliver either to F-banks or meet you at Cantwell or something if my fuel costs were covered. BTW: I am still working on finding you an LSD.

Never, ever, go back to that "mechanic". Unless the valves were bent BEFORE the T-belt broke, they are not bent. As has been said, getting the timing off by even one tooth will make it run horrendously bad. If it's 180 out on one of the cams (the most likely case), I am amazed that it runs at all. Get yourself a set of new SOA belts, install them yourself, and your car will be good as new.

Uh oh, now you got me thinking about all kinds of crazy swaps!

Interesting, very interesting...... Is it possible that maybe with turbo axles we could put in an AWD tranny?

Just wash it off when you get back and it'll be fine. Realistically, adding skidplates will not stop the influx of mud. Rather, it will hold the mud in there even more.

Generally, brass inserts are used in higher-quality ignition parts. I'm not sure what makes it better than aluminum, but it's probably a better conductor or does not deteriorate as quickly or something.

That is not difficult.

Hmm, maybe I'll have to try some of that. I've had great luck with MMO. Had a car last year that ticked rather bad intermittently. Put in MMO with fresh Castrol, drove it 750 miles, and it sounded like a freakin' sewing machine.

Welcome to the board. CV axle changes are sort of a rite of passage for subaru owners. Just take it slow and you shouldn't have any trouble.

It should be pretty obvious if you've got CVJ/DOJ problems. If the boots are torn, or if there is any roughness when you move the joints around, it's time for new ones (get a new or reman axle). I have repacked CV's with grease, but it is not fun, and usually the grease is not what causes them to fail. 9 times out of 10, failure is cause by torn boots allowing contamination in.

That duct-taped car is sweeeeet!

Actually, I've seen two different setups on the ea82 carbed cars. Both have push-on rotors. Somebody told me a while back that one is a Hitachi unit and the other is made by Nippendenso. So far I've had two cases where the parts store gave me the wrong one.