Snowman

OMG!!! That EA81 is SICK! When and where was this done?

I don't know why it's called a "dashpot", but it is basically a little plunger that the throttle linkage pushes on when the throttle is closing. The resistance created by this keeps the throttle plate open a wee bit when you let off on the gas, preventing excess pressure buildup between the turbo and the throttle plate (basically what a BOV/BPV does).

The EA82T doesn't have a BOV/BPV in stock form. It just uses a dashpot to slow the closing of the throttle plates.

$300 from NAPA? 1stsubaruparts.com has an OEM kit for less than that. You should replace the throwout bearing and pressure plate while you've got it apart. If the oil pump is leaking or your pressure is not great, replace the pump. $1stsubaruparts.com has new ones for less than $150. Oh yeah, timing belts too.

Your choke, which also controls the fast idle, is probably faulty or misadjusted.

Check ebay for manuals. Got any pics of the install?

As far as I know, the EJ engines combined the cam tower with the head. If you use the proper sealant on the cam tower (Anaerobic gasket maker, NOT RTV), there should be little or no leakage. However, an actual O-ring type seal would be cool. They make kits for forming custom O-rings that include several feet of the ring material and some special glue to connect the ends with. You might be able to find one in the right size and make some gaskets that way. Just a thought.

Actually, the Cummins 6BTA engine (the one in the Dodge trucks), which is the single most prolific engine in the world, never had glow plugs. Even when they were purely a mechanically-injected engine. The 6BTAs in the busses at my work employ an add-on timing control that messes with the timing at cold startup to reduce smoke. Some applications (like the Dodge trucks) have intake air heaters which come on when it gets cold outside. And yes, you can mess with the timing on diesels. A slight advance will generally yield more power and efficiency but puts more stress on the engine and tends to reduce longevity.

Pull the engine. On your car, there is very, very little to unplug or disconnect. I've gotten my EA82 removal time down to well below an hour.

I've got stickers and emblems on my toolbox, and I put a Subaru WRC sticker on my garage window. Sorry, but I just got a new laptop and I'm gonna have to copy your idea!

If they are difficult to remove, it's generally not horrible. Deposits build up on the pin between the rod and the piston, making initial removal difficult. If they are still hard to push in or out after the deposits are cleaned off (use fine emory cloth coated in oil), then you've got a problem. In most of the engines I've had apart, the pins needed a little encouragement to come out.

Great pictures man! Is yours the only dent-free lifted wagon on the board?

Ditto. It's odd that it wouldn't leak from the hoses or something first, but stranger things have happened.

Can I splice right into the existing VSS on my car, or does it require a different on for the EJ-series engines?

As far as I know, everything got hooked up that came with the EJ22. The ecm and harness are currently piled in the spare tire area:drunk: . It runs great other than this, so I'll check the screw.

If you haven't come up with a copy yet, I can mail you one of my paper copies, which has more stuff from the FSM it too.

It's all good.

Crikey! 33,000 miles! Unless this thing had NO maintenance, the crankshaft sealing surface should be in fine shape. I would bet that they put the seal in cockeyed, which will cause it to leak right away. The "banged-up" appearance points toward somebody doing a poor install with a drift punch, which makes it difficult to align the seal properly. They also could have deformed the seal using this install method. Get a new seal and either a seal installer or a large socket to spread out the force you are putting on it and install the seal VERY carefully, paying particular attention to how straight it goes in the hole, and you should be leak-free.

Precombustion chambers are a thing of the past, and glow plugs are now being used only to reduce emissions (i.e. NOT required to start the engine). Toyota successfully converted the 22R engine to a diesel with a different head (and pistons too I think). That doesn't mean it's for sure possible with a Subaru engine, but there may be a glimmer of hope. However, I do think it would be MUCH easier to swap in an already existing diesel from a VW/Toyota/Isuzu, etc.

???? Unless I'm confused, SPFI uses single port heads and MPFI uses dual port heads, so you'd have to use the intake, wiring harness, and computer from the other car, but that would work. This is ONLY if it's MPFI, which it sounds like is not the case.

Hmmm.... The air filter is new, but now that I think about it, the engine seemed to idle fine before I installed the filter box... Is it possible that the ECM set all of its operating parameters when I ran the engine without the air box and now it isn't getting as much air? I'll check my FSM to see how to reset everthing. Any other ideas? Coolant thermosensor maybe?

I just finished putting an EJ22 into my 86 GL wagon. It runs great except for one little problem: When cold, the engine idles fine, but as it warms up, it will idle very slowly and eventually not idle at all. It's as if the IAC is just shutting down the air flow and killing the engine. What might I check initially in order to remedy this problem? I'm going to try to read the codes this weekend, which should help, but any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance.

Carbed ea82 is 8.7:1, SPFI EA82 is 9.5:1.

I know Porsche has run cars in the Dakar. Dunno why a properly setup soob couldn't do it. Anybody got a WRX they want to donate to the cause?

Everything should be absolutely identical between the two models.