Snowman

Spark plug wires from an EA81 (overhead valve) 1800 engine should fit yours. Wires from an EA82 (overhead cam) 1800 engine will not. I can't really tell you what years etc. to look for because they are apparently different in your country.

For the gasket mating surfaces, 3M makes a yellow disc that chucks into your drill that will clean the surface much much faster and better than doing it by hand. Your local parts store should have them. On the cam towers and the block halves, use Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. A tube, which will more than do your engine, costs like $20 if I remember correctly, but unlike RTV, it won't leak for a while and won't form little chunks inside the motor that break off and get into the oil and clog the pickup screen. I use an inch-pound torque wrench for doing the oil pan and other low-torque bolts.

It's probably more likely that the screw holding the distributor rotor came loose and the rotor is now spinning freely on the disty shaft, but it could very well be a timing belt too. Those two things are probably the most common causes is "sudden death" on the EA82s.

I can take some more pics of the bracket tomorrow. The alternator is a Powermaster unit that came from Summit Racing, and I lied, it's actually a 100 amp, but the tag attached said it put out 107 when tested. The Summit part number is PWM-8002 (can't link directly to the page as the url just gets you to the catalog), and it retailed for $99.95. Apparently there is an easier GM alternator to swap that requires some minimal adaptations of the factory brackets. A quick search should yield some results. When I ordered this one, I thought it was that kind, but it turned out that it wasn't. I like making stuff, so I went along with it and adapted this one.

My vote is for wheel bearings or potentially a bent dust cover (the metal piece behind the brake disc) rubbing on the disc. It could also be a rock caught somewhere in the brake assembly.

If you don't have an ammeter, you could just disconnect the alternator and see if the battery still drains. If that isn't the problem, repeat this test removing the fuse of a suspect circuit and seeing if the problem continues.

What is the recommended service interval for the valve adjustment on the 97-99s?

Definitely fix this engine if it runs good otherwise. It will take a weekend to pull the engine and do the stuff you mentioned. Use anaerobic sealant on the cam towers and genuine Subaru gaskets and it shouldn't leak for a while. It would be a good idea to do the rear main seal while you're at it. Since the leaks aren't that bad by subaru standards, you can drive the car for quite some time (i.e. until it's convenient to work on it) as long as you keep it topped off and the leaks don't get really bad.

You know, an EJ22 would go pretty nicely in that brat, Ed.

They should be absolutely identical. At worst, you might have to swap the intake manifold from your engine onto the new one in order to keep all the FI plug-ins the same, but there should be no difference.

Soaked mine in degreasing solvent overnight then hosed it with brake cleaner.

Whoops, accidentally double posted.

You're correct. The whole point of the PCV system is to suck the vapours from the crankcase. The picture that Handtool posted is exactly what you need.

That thing looks sweeeeeeeeet!

Sweetness! I'm glad that worked out for ya!

No, the Loyale Turbo ones will not work on your 1600. The disty on the EA82T is on the back of the driver's side head and yours is in front of the carb, so the wires are different lengths. Just order a "universal" set that you cut to length. I generally buy one for a V8 engine and make two sets for my subarus.

Your car should have the 23 spline axles, and you should be able to interchange between ANY non-turbo 4wd M/T EA82. They're they same on either side. Some other cars may use the same axles, but I'm not positive. The rears are a different story. It is my impression that ANY EA82 4wd axles will work, but I'm not positive. The 85-86 cars had DOJs on both ends and after that there was a CV on outer end, but I have used both kinds on my car so I know they will swap.

Like KBD said, I've been told that the coolant temp sensor is problematic on these cars, so it might not hurt to throw a new one on. Definitely ditto on the tuneup items though. The FI system can't really be messed with much. You can advance the timing a couple of degrees and that might help. Many people have had success cutting out the bottom of the airbox to improve flow, as well as opening up the exhaust a little.

Hmm, I would love to, but it's a bit of a drive. Good luck though, sounds like a ton o' fun! Got pics of the car?

What car is this going into and what engine will it be helping to scream?

The rotors need to be replaced if they are worn too thin, there are deep grooves,or if they are warped/non-parallel. If a big ridge has formed near the outside of the rotor, it's probably too thin. The thickness can properly be measured with a mic if it's borderline. Take a ball point pen and draw a line across the rotor. If the line doesn't show up all the way across, the grooves are too deep. Finally, spin the wheel with the car jacked up and listen for the slight noise the pads make as they drag on the turning rotor. If this noise is consistent through an entire revolution, the rotors are not warped badly. If not, they need to be replaced. Also remember that you should replace BOTH rotors at the same time even if one is "OK" because it can cause brake balance issues to the point of being unsafe if you have one new rotor and one old. Definitely check the condition of the rear brakes, but the pads may not need replacement.

ROFLMAO:lol: !

Torxxx put an SPFI intake on his carb somehow. Here's my old intake setup from when I had a carbed EA82 in my car. It's pretty self-explainatory (BTW, the mounting bracket used to be a toothbrush holder!)

Or get a 105 amp GM altertnator for like $100.

Oh, I'm very observant...my question was answered in your post. It's probably a shorted wire.