Snowman

More likely the wiring going to the switch or flasher unit. Does the fuse blow with the turn signals off or on?

A roll of the WIDE duct tape works great...either on the floor or on the center console. I like Ed's better though! Is that the same brat that was stuck in the midwest somewhere this summer? What did you do to get it going?

For the head mating surfaces and the chambers, 3M makes special cleaning disks you can chuck into your drill. They are some sort of impregnated plastic/rubber stuff that works wonderfully. There are three different grades: Green for iron, yellow for aluminum, and I don't know what the white is for. For cleaning the ports and stuff, remove the valves, hose the ports with brake cleaner, and use a small wire brush. It can't get everything out, but it's darn close.

Not necessarily true....why do you think impact wrenches work so well?

You can probably come up with a good EA81 for less than the price of a cam for your engine. Once you've got the EA81, you could put on the EA82 SPFI system, which will help with performance, economy, and drivability.

I've had to drill out three or four broken pinch bolts and replace them with a thru-bolt. That's a b****, as the bolts are really hard steel and take forever to drill through. On the one balljoint I've replaced, I just onbolted the control arm and put it in a vice before beating the joint out with a BFH, but that was because I didn't have the right tools to remove it in the car. If it's really stuck in there, that's another option though.

I think the EJ22 is probably the best engine subaru has made. They last forever, have good power while being efficient, and they don't leak oil, tick, or blow HG's like the EA82. Subaru built the legacy to LAST.

If it's not too much of a hassle, you might just try another computer and see if it works.

Cool, I'll have to check that out. Thanks.

On a related note, I recommend only OEM thermostats for subarus. I've had bad luck with aftermarket ones not working properly, and the factory thermostats really aren't that expensive. They also look like they're built to last, unlike the cheap aftermarket ones.

Also squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil down into the cylinders a day or two before trying to free it.

Jack up the car, turn the wheels, and listen for where the noise is coming from. The joints could very well be bad even if the boots are fine, but generally the rears last a long time.

Basically, you can look at the engine control wiring diagram in a Chilton's manual and remove anything you don't see there. Check out Beefaru's pics/site, which shows the MUCH smaller fully stripped harness in all its glory.

It's really up to personal taste, but I can think of two options right off. I'm mounting my EJ22 ECM in a waterproof box in the spare tire area. Beefaru has his bolted to the floor up above the passenger's feet. You could also just temporarily ground the case to test it.

Did you get all the air out of the system? My EJ22 was airlocked badly the first time I started it up and it took a while to get all the air out.

What is the production date of your engine? I just called a friend of mine who knows the EJ computers like the back of his hand and he needs to know that before he can look into it. He did say you probably do need the VSS, but that it's likely you could take the VSS pickup out of the legacy tranny and put it in your d/r.

You should hear an audible click from the relay when it comes on. The injector unit may also make some similar noises. The computer should have three power wires to it from the ignition relay (one wire from the relay splits and goes to pins 29 and 41, the other goes to pin 49), as well as a constant hot from the battery (pin 27) and an ignition hot (pin 38). The light in the hole blinks codes when the test connectors are plugged together. Is everything grounded properly including the ECM case? Bad grounds cause more problems than anything else, and I've been told that the case ground is critical for this particular computer to work properly.

I think Noah may be correct. The guy I got my EJ22 from said that when they went to the newer computer setup around that year, the vehicle would go into a derated "limp-home" mode if any of the sensors were not hooked up. I'm not sure if it happened in 95 or 96, but I assume the change would coincide with going to OBDII. According to my FSMs, the speed sensor voltage ranges are not compatible between the EA and EJ cars. The EJ22 computer needs a pulse that goes between 0 and 5 volts, and the EA82 computer needs an input that varies slightly above and below 2 volts. I was not able to find the spec for the EA81, but it should be the same as the EA82. My EJ22 seems to have no trouble running without a VSS. (It's an 89 engine with the harness and ECM from a 92.)

YEAH!!!

My 86 came with that type, and yes, they are rebuildable, but it's very time consuming to do it without damaging them. However, I did do it, and they worked just fine.

Your body style was sold from 80-84 as a wagon, through 87 as a brat, and through 89 as a hatch. The front fenders and hood should swap between all of those models, and I don't know what is interchangable beyond that. Pulling the engine and doing a clutch on your car would be a great learning experience and it's really not that hard since it doesn't have a lot of complex stuff to disconnect. Just label every hose and wire you remove and it should be a piece of cake. As far as other stuff to do, definitely replace the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. If anything else leaks, this is a great time to replace that as well. Replace all the coolant hoses, since you have to remove them to pull the engine anyway. If your radiator is in bad shape, get a new one as you'll be removing it in the process as well. This would also be a good time to clean the engine bay if you are into that sort of thing. Not having the engine in the way makes this a lot easier.

It's a standard threaded bolt, so go counterclockwise. If the car has a manual transmission, just put it in 5th gear with the parking brake applied. If it's an auto, there is apparently a special tool to stick into the flex plate that holds it stationary, but I've used screwdrivers, etc with pretty good luck in the past. If you have tried everying to no avail, remove the radiator and use an impact wrench. (Note: I have never had to resort to this in the past.)

The wiring does bear a strong resemblance to that on the yellow wagon when I saw it at WCSS6!

Verify that your ignition relay and its wiring is working properly. If nothing works, that's probably the culprit.

Nice to hear you're back. You were down in Sitka fishing right? Ditto on the need for a meet-n-greet. I see there are a few more AK-dwellers on the board now, so we should try to do something pretty soon.