Snowman

The EA82T turbo engine is identical to the naturally aspirated EA82 in many ways, but there are a few key differences. What makes it an EA82T is that it has dished pistons for lower compression, it has different heads with two intake ports instead of one on each head for improved flow, the PCV system is slightly different, and the engine management and fuel system is different. You CAN just put a turbocharger onto a naturally aspirated engine, but the way in which you do it will cause your results to vary. Some examples of how it's done: 1. Turboing a carbed EA82 and keeping the carburetor has not been done by anybody on the board. It would be a nightmare to tune it and it would never run as well as an injected engine. 2. A guy in Canada put a turbo on an SPFI soob engine with the factory engine management. It wasn't running a lot of boost, so reliability and longevity were pretty good. 3. Several people on the board have taken a carbed shortblock with the higher-compression pistons and added the turbo heads, manifold, engine management, etc to create a high-compression turbo engine. This results in substantial power gains over the stock n/a or turbo motor, and has proved to be somewhat reliable. Basically, you can do it, but it won't necessarily be easy or cheap. It might be simpler to just swap in and EA82T, but you can do whatever you want.

Yeah, missing the spacer might decrease the life of the bearings just a tad;) .

It actually says in the owners manual that the gauge may drop to 0 at idle. Your pressure readings are just like every healthy EA82 I've owned.

What exactly are the suspension differences? I know the RX has heavier springs and sway bars, but is there anything else?

It's coming up throught the PCV system. Get a new PCV valve from Subaru (aftermarket ones don't work) and clean out the hose that attaches to it.

Paraphrasing what I have heard on the board: On 85/86 models with the flapper style MAF, the fuel cut is controlled by a boost-activated switch. On 87 and later models with the hot wire MAF, the fuel cut is triggered when the MAF reading (voltage) goes above a certain level. Hope this helps.

Doing a complete rebuild on an EA82 really isn't a huge deal. I've done two of them and am doing a third in my spare time. To do it right with factory parts and getting the heads resurfaced cost probably around $1000 by the time it was all done. For any engine work, the best advice I can give is this. Keep everything organized. Zip-loc bags work great to put bolts and other small parts in, and can be labeled to avoid any confusion. Make sure everything is super clean when you put it back together. Also, try to do it all in a short period of time. Few things suck worse than trying to remember how stuff went together when you restart a project a month later. To do a full rebuild, in addition to the gasket set, you will need main bearings, rod bearings, and a ring set. I would highly recommend just getting new HVLAs from Mizpah. Even if yours aren't ticking, at $5 a pop, it's cheap insurance. You should also replace the oil pump with a new OEM one. Generally, if the engine ran fine otherwise, no machine work is necessary on the crank or rods, but getting the heads resurfaced and having the valves and seats ground is a very good idea. The machine shop can also inspect the heads for cracking and other defects. The only special tools you need to buy are a ring compressor and a cylinder hone. You will need to make a piston pin puller to get the pins out, but that's easy to make from a long bolt. Subaru engines usually exhibit very little cylinder wear, so a ridge reamer really is not necessary. Be sure to label all the rods, pistons, and followers, as they should go back in the same position. Don't make the dumb mistake I did and reverse a rod cap by not paying attention to the manual. The rods and caps are made to be installed ONLY one way. The sealant you should use on the block halves is Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. The stuff that was used at the factory is no longer available, but the Permatex is the best substitute. The engine section of the Factory Service Manual (invaluable when doing this sort of work) can be found at http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Would it be possible to just mount some KCs or something in the holes where the stock lights go?

wow, what deja vu.... How long ago was it that Napolean Dynamite came out?

Go to the parts store and see what they can come up with that will fit into the hubs? There surely is some vehicle with studs that are similar but longer.

What are you having done to it?

Cool, let's go there then. I'll give Brad a call.

Got a picture? I think that would help immensely.

To tap new threads, first figure out what bolt you want to put in the hole, then go to the parts/tool store and get a tap that's that size and thread pitch. Then drill the hole out with whatever size drillbit is listed on the side of the tap (it will tell you what size bolt and what size drill bit). Finally, coat the tap with oil and screw it into the hole. After doing that, you will have a larger threaded hole that will accept a larger bolt.

Yeah, you can either helicoil it (probably less trouble in the long run), or tap it to the next size up.

Brian, do you mean that you got some XT springs and put them in your RX? Looks sweet!

As far as I know, the adapter plate will allow ANY EJ engine to bolt up to ANY EA82 transmission. I don't think the engines went through any changes that would cause them to not physically bolt up.

The sticky float is a good place to start. It wouldn't hurt to get an accelerator pump and a top gasket and do a "half-rebuild" on the carb. While you have it apart, you could inspect and clean the float and its bowl.

I've got three "grades" of light on my wagon. What you get depends on finances and what kind of use the car sees. The outermost ones on the rack cost $8 each from Northern Tool and Equipment and are OK. The middle ones on the rack cost $15 each from a local shop and are pretty good (up there with $50 lights for functionality in my opinon). Before I had the custom rack, I had them mounted to a regular "crossbar" type rack like a Yakima or Thule. The lights in front are just bolted through the bumper. They're Lightforce 140s or 170s, I can't remember which, and they retail for $285/pair (not what I paid for them). If you've got the cash, they are the bomb. The removable blue covers are designed to help the light go through blizzard-like snow conditions. I used to just use cheap lights, but I have almost died enough times from not being able to see that I went for some good ones.

I was thinking about the restaurant that's connected to the theater. Never been to the brewpub on old seward...do you have to be of age to go in there? I'll see when Brad's going to be around, but probably meet around 6ish if that works for people.

It sounds like Torxxx is going to be down in Anchorage on monday, so we should have a SKA meet 'n greet. How about dinner monday night at the Bear Tooth? Any new members are more than welcome! (Matt, do you have Jon's number?)

Yeah, we could just all buy 360s and get 66mpg!

Is this on an EA81 or EA82? All the EA82s have the double-belt water pump pulley (That way, if either of the belts breaks, the water pump is still driven and the engine doesn't overheat. Brilliant!) I have yet to see an EA81 with that setup, but they may be out there.

I get that when the snow is REALLY heavy, wet, and thick. There's not much you can do about it, but I've heard that if you spray inside the fenders with WD40 beforehand, the snow doesn't stick as much. Dunno if it works, but it's worth a shot.

Since you have to find an ECM and harness anyway, you might check and see if you could run the 97 engine with the computer from an older car (90-94). The stuff on the engine itself could be exactly the same and plug right in. The guy that I mentioned earlier said that he ran an EJ25 (which I believe didn't come out until after the OBDII switch) with the computer and stuff from an earlier EJ22 in a vanagon conversion he did a while ago. I'll give him a ring tomorrow and see if he found out anything yet about your engine. You should be able to use it regardless. It may just take a little research and fabrication.