Snowman

Check the headlight relays and the hi-lo switch.

That is so sweet. If I ever build up an EA82T, this is going to be high on my list.

Hmmm....that's interesting. I had never really thought about that. I don't have any ER27s around to do some field testing on, but I could fire up the EA71 I've got, crank it up until the valves start floating, and see how long it lasts:drunk: .

Talk to Garner about his EA82T brat conversion. I'm not sure what drivetrain he used, but I think his was RWD. You'd probably have to make some custom axles to mate up with the RX tranny in front.

ATF would be one of the first things to come to mind, but I don't think the 4EAT has a vacuum modulator, or does it? Did you use a genuine SOA PCV valve? I don't know how finicky the EJ engines are about that, but on my EA motors, anything else WILL cause them to burn oil. (I just put a new PCV valve in my EJ22 because the old one had some significant rust on it:rolleyes: , and it was puffing out a blue cloud at startup...I really hope it's not valve seals:-\ .)

It shouldn't be too bad to do in the car. The bearings are part of the cam tower on these engines, so you'll want to get a replacement cam tower and probably a different cam from somewhere (new ones are like $200, so I'd get one off the board or from a JY). As to why it happened, maybe a clogged oil passage. How was your oil pressure? I had this happen on the passenger side of an EA82T that got SEVERELY overheated. However, in this case, the cam seized up after the engine was shut off. When cranked, it quickly removed about 10 teeth from the timing belt.

Put the car in 5th gear with the parking brake on and torque it to 75 ft-lbs (or just really freaking tight...they are known to come loose.)

Not to discourage you, but outside of this board, I doubt anybody in America knows what a touring wagon is. I kind of doubt that you could get much more for one than for a regular wagon.

Does your car have a distributor-type ignition or does it have two coils on top of the engine? If it has the two coils on top of the engine, the ignition timing should be controlled by a detonation sensor, which means that you can run basically any grade of gasoline without problems. You may get better fuel economy and more power with different grades, but you'd have to experiment to determine that. If it's got the distributor, there is probably a recommended minimum grade of gas...probably the lowest grade available, but maybe not. It should say in your owner's manual.

Get the 96 with the 2.2. That's the last year of the non-interference EJ22.

I'm not sure if it was the same book or just a similar one, but the XT is in it!

They might be shorter than the 4wd struts too.

If the headlights dim when the voltage reads low, the gauge is probably accurate. If not, then it's likely just the gauge malfunctioning. This would be a great excuse to go buy a digital volt/ohm meter:brow: .

Quick, somebody go grab parts off of it!

What did that Xantrex 1500 cost?

For the skid plate spacer, you could probably get away with a 2.5" or 3" piece of rectangular tube and just have the skidplate angled slightly. It might take a bit of bending and fabbing, but I think you'd be better off in the longrun as it wouldn't hang down as far. On mine, I'm planning on making a custom plate that will eliminate the spacer and make it stronger.

Is there really a noticable increase in interior space/headroom with the raised roof?

Sorry, but I just had this vision of a couple of engineers finding a bag of weed in a brat that one of them just bought, taking a couple of hits while sitting in the brat's rear seats, and proceeding to design the baja.

I pulled the tractor out of the snow once. It was freakin' awesome! Pulled a couple of smaller fallen trees out of the road as well.

It sounds like the linkage may need adjustment. Take off the plastic trim piece around the shifter and mess with the adjustment (I can't remember exactly how it's set up, but it should be pretty easy to figure out.

Not sure of this, but I think 89 was the only year for the touring wagon in the US.

Northguy's son's Legacy had hard starting problems last year that turned out to be a bad cam position sensor. I'm new to the EJ engines myself, so I'm still trying to learn what their common failings are. Sorry I can't be of much help.

I'd switch to synthetic anyway, but that oil pressure reading doesn't seem unreasonable. Seldom should you be worried about too much oil pressure. Out of curiosity, what does it go down to when the engine is warm and at idle?

Can you tell if it's coming from the water pipe (sealed by an o-ring), from the water pump-to-block seal (sealed by a gasket), or from the shaft seal (sealed by a rubber seal)? If it's just leaking from where the water pipe goes into the pump, replace the o-ring, put some RTV in there, and you're good to go. If it's hard to tell or you think it might be leaking elsewhere too, just get a new waterpump and gasket for like $40 and seal it up right. My personal favorite sealant for water pump gaskets is the spray-on copper stuff.

Is there any reason you can't start the engine and listen to it? Like has been said, the flywheel is probably screwed up. Either machine it or get another one in good condition. Check the condition of the transmission oil, but it should be okay unless it was really abused badly.