Snowman

I would personally recommend doing a few mods to your engine and running that rather than going to the trouble of putting in a different engine. Your stock engine is rated at like 160 hp...plenty for towing anything that your suspension can handle. I've used my 87 hp subaru to tow boats, snowmachines, and other junk. If you want to drop in a bigger engine, that's cool. I just don't know if it would really be worth all the work and expense.

Does it run? Got pics? Is it 4wd?

Drivetrain compatabiity: Yes, the EA82T axles are different, but you can bolt the EA82T engine directly to your EA82 transmission and it will hold up fine. The only differences between the transmissions were the final drive gear ratios and the spline count on the stub axles. Exhaust: You will have to cut a notch in either the engine or transmission crossmember...others will know which one, I just know that it's one of them. Other than that, use the EA82T exhaust from the downpipe forward and you'll be fine. Electrical: It's really not that hard to install the wiring harness and ECM from the EA82T car and make it run. However, if you've got a strict vehicle inspection program over there, you will have to spend a lot of time making sure that everything looks good (as in not just piling the ECM and harness in the spare tire area like I did). You will need a good manual, preferably a factory manual, for the donor car and your car so you can sort out all the wires.

Only if I get to do it too!

That's the story...too slick for proper break-in. Remember that the Vipers and stuff are designed to be broken in with synthetic oil, whereas our subarus were not. I'd rather not risk it myself, and how much extra wear is going to occur if you run regular oil in your engine for 3000 miles?

I agree that 1stsubaruparts.com's online database sucks, but if you call them, they are generally very helpful.

There's only one PCV valve, but the PCV system goes to both valvecovers as well as to the valve and the aircleaner housing. The PCV filter should stay clean, as air gets sucked through it on its way into the crankcase. I think there are some other hoses that connect to the aircleaner housing, and that's where the oil comes in. I hope that makes sense...just replace the valve and clean out all the large hoses that attach to the PCV valve, valve covers, or aircleaner housing, and you should be good to go.

I'm not sure where to start looking for the noise, but that's awesome that you got everything figured out and Haggard is rolling again!

I assume you're talking about the flex plate. I have not done this personally on an automatic soob, so I'm trying to imagine exactly what it looks like.... There should be some bolt holes in the plate for attaching the torque converter. Put bolts in these holes and use a long prybar jammed between these bolts and the studs that protrude from the back of the engine to prevent the plate from rotating while you remove the bolts from the crankshaft. Or if you've got an impact wrench, just zip the bolts right out.

Yeah, after looking at it closer, I don't think it's a big deal if you use a computer from an auto car. You might get a check engine light or something, but it shouldn't make much difference besides that. Sorry, I should have spent more time researching that when I wrote the manual.:-\ It will be edited if I make another version.

Can I get a halleluja?!!! Edit: Also, they don't puke oil, tick, or blow HG's like the EA82s do.

Dude, why not get a gen 1 legacy with the EJ22T? Way cheaper, and it'll probably still outlast the EJ25 or the six.

You need to get a new genuine subaru PCV valve, and clean out all the PCV hoses as well as the little dinky PCV filter that's inside the air cleaner housing.

My rough estimate from looking at my Yukon map is that it's something like 1000-1200 miles from Haines to Tuktoyuktuk. Over 100 miles is on ice roads that are only open during the winter. I really want to do this trip sometime just to be able to say that I've driven as far north as possible.

You may very well have a stripped front hub. CAREFULLY put it in gear with the parking brake on while in 2wd, and see if either of the front castle nuts are spinning inside the hub.

Sooo, If I wanted to drive up to Tuktoyuktuk (I think that's how it's spelled) or Prudhoe Bay just for the heck of it, would anybody want to go with me?

It's really easy to take the pistons out without splitting the case. I accidentally forgot to put one of the pin-retaining spring clips in once, and after much head-scratching I came up with this method: Using care not to scratch the cylinder wall with the connecting rod, turn the engine until the rod pushes the piston almost all the way out. Turn the engine until you can put the pin back into the connecting rod, then continue turning the engine until the piston is pushed all the way out. Ta-da! That said, unless your engine is very new AND it was not run for very long with a blown headgasket, I would take the block apart and have a look at those bearings. It would SUCK to put it back together and have a rod knock.

Maybe... Your differential most likely has a 3.7:1 ratio, and the 5MT has a 3.9:1 ratio if it's from an n/a. If it's from a turbo car, the transmission most likely has a 3.7:1 ratio, so you can use your differential.

ROFLMAO! Whenever I see somebody like Bill O'Reily or Sean Hannity on TV, I'm not sure if I should laugh or cry!

That might get you to all sorts of crazy places, but I don't think it'll help your brat do the same! Sorry, I just had to use the oldest joke in the book.

You could also convert to SPFI... a better swap in my opinion.

You can use your throttle linkage with some minimal home-made adaptations.

If the synthetic grease is designed for wheel bearings and stuff, it will be too thick and will likely block the flow of oil to critical engine parts.

Unplug the idle air controller, then adjust the air screw (on the throttle body next to the IAC) until it idles around 500 rpm. Plug the IAC back in and go. Actually, your IAC may not be functioning. Does the engine idle faster when it's cold, or does it always idle at the same speed? If the speed does not fluctuate, the IAC may be faulty or gummed up.

I've found that the gauges are notoriously unreliable on most older subarus. The low fuel lights are generally pretty trustworthy...just make sure that yours isn't burnt out or anything, and you can count on it.