Snowman

I need to get back on researching this, but I'm thinking about trying to make a diesel subaru hybrid. Diesel electric trains don't have the engine connected to the wheels mechanically. They're basically huge gensets that can run at constant RPMs, which makes the engine more efficient and less polluting, and then the electric motors put all the power down. I think the same concept would work for a car. Basically, I would just put a battery bank and a small diesel genset in the back of the car with some solar panels on the roof for good measure, and hook up an electric motor to the front of the subaru tranny. It's crazy, but it just might work! Now I just need $5000 for the awesome electric motor I want to get:banghead: .

They may require that the check engine light is functional. Not sure, but I think that's the way it is most places. The throttle cable tension is adjusted with two 12mm jam nuts right behind the throttle body. There is also an idle stop adjustment with a screw that you're not supposed to touch once it leaves the factory, but somebody may have messed with it. If nothing else works, you could try messing with that adjustment.

Use an air blow gun and put a block of wood in front of the piston to stop it.

Fans: If you've got two, assuming they're both electric, one is probably for the A/C. Key: Just go the the Subaru dealer with your VIN. Clock: Start poking around with an ohm-meter. I can't be of too much help there. Parts stores: I've had good luck with 1stsubaruparts.com. Thepartsbin.com also seems to have a good stock of subaru parts, but I haven't ordered from them before so I don't know much.

You probably just pulled out the little connector that goes into the alternator. It should be pretty obvious which one it is if you can get a good look at it.

I'm not "finished" with it yet, as I still have to remove all the extra stuff from the legacy harness (very limited time available for the swap), but it was really easy to hook up.

It sounds like you need to bleed the brakes.

Jealousy building...... That car is going to clean up really nicely. Cool project!

Welcome! What do you have as far as service manuals for the EJ20G? A factory manual is awesome, but even the schematics in the Chilton's manual are pretty good and cover most everything you'll need to hook up to make it run. Good luck with the swap and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Is this 559,000 mile car still around? Did it die and how? What's the story on it?

Try getting a coathanger or a long rod of some sort, prying outward on the window, sticking the rod through, and pushing on the lock button/lever on the other side of the car. Good luck!

Tie rod is also a possibility. I've seen struts bend on these cars, but you have to hit stuff really hard to do that. For any of these parts, I don't even want to guess what new ones would cost, but you can get good replacements from the junkyard pretty cheap.

What kind of shape are the rotors in? I guess it's possible that if they're really screwed up it could cause a noise like this.

www.1stsubaruparts.com These guys rock.

Sorry to stray from the topic, but this is very closely related: For those of you running FI cars in deep water, what have you done as far as sealing up the ECM and other delicate components? How well does it work? I plan on putting a healthy glob of dielectric grease in every connector and placing my ECM in a watertight box with a vent tube running into the cab (EJ conversion, and the ECM is mounted underhood).

Last year, somebody on here scored an 85 turbowagon with like 12k or 14k on it. I was so jealous!

Yeah, it's as simple as that. Make sure you use OEM gaskets when reattaching the intake manifold. (No crappy aftermarket gaskets. No sealant.)

Things that come to mind immediately: -heater hoses -the metal pipes that run to the hoses could be rusted out -one of the itty bitty coolant hoses attached to the intake manifold. -intake manifold gaskets -coolant temp sensor(s) -thermostat gasket (those last two are on the front of the engine, but the coolant could end up farther back by the time it hits the ground

Bent gravel shield? Jack the car up, turn the wheel, and listen. It should become apparent quite quickly.

Those were standard ag tires from the looks of it. You should be able to find some pretty easy, and they should hook up like a mofo in the sand.

I'm pretty sure you need to raise the engine to get the oil pan off. Haven't done it in the car myself, but it looks that way.

Just rewire them from scratch with a switch and a relay. Way less time than figuring out how to modify the factory wiring. Just my two cents.

I do like the idea of chopping off the rear bumper and the sheetmetal behind it. The EA82s have such a bad overhang in stock form.

Oooooooh, so that's what that thing was for that I found in my car!

Generally, if there's a problem with the headlights that's only on one side, it's the bulb. They can look "okay" and still be problematic. Try swapping the bulb from the other side and see if it works then. I THINK any EA82 EGR valve should work on your car. How have you determined that it needs changing? It may just be dirty, or there could very well be a problem in the system that controls it. I really don't know if the high idle would be connected to the EGR valve having problems. It may be possible, I just don't know. It's also possible that the throttle cable is too tight or that you've got a bad temp sensor telling the ECM that the engine is still cold. Have you checked for codes yet?