Setright

Mobil 1 5W-50 is the quietest in my engine. Please bear in mind: The slap should go away as the engine warms up. IF it is getting louder as the engine heats, a main bearing has failed.

What spring? Maybe Haynes means the one on the pedal arm. It's supposed to help you press the clutch down and hold it down. Spiral job, that doesn't need detachment. Some models have a regular coil spring acting straight on the pedal, I could understand if that needed removing.

You could try to find some camber bolts for the rear struts. Common at the tuners, of which there are plenty in UK. That way you can adjust the error out of the new shock absorbers.

Mobil 1 has all the additives in it there already. No need to mess with it. Same goes for most oils.

TheBrian? If you run Mobil 1, you would be wasting a lot of money if you change before 6000 miles. 7500 is within reach depending on conditions. In fact, you could change only the filter every 6k and leave the oil in for 12k.

Blitz, the way I read that, contact only happens when the diff is overloaded.

How many miles on this engine?

Yes, for sure spend the extra cash on the Genuine filters. Some of the other filters named here aren't bad, but the Subaru is a sure-fire, no risk, best option. I like Mobil 1, and have had good results with it for a long time, in many cars. Castrol products are good too. I use their brake fluid and trans oil for the rear diff. Shell in the manual gearbox, and Shell in the coolant. Mobil in the steering pump.

I did not realize that the VC acted on a mechanical center diff. I thought the VC was the center diff. No wonder this system works so well

Drain the oil and replace the oil pump seals. Slick50 is not a product I would recommend. So, plan on replacing your oil filter too. Twice. After the oil pump work, drive ca. 600miles and replace the filter again.

Could just be the "concert" of two full sized cooling fans running.

I drove a 2.5XT Forester recently, and it pulled in the horizon after 3000rpm, too! However, throttle response is dulled so much by lag, that taking the car round corners was terminally frustrating. Brake hard, turn-in while releasing the brakes, stomp on the gas.....nothing....nothing.....VROOOMMMMMM! In my 2.0 Impreza the "stomp on the gas" manouvre is followed by instant urge and a small dose of oversteer. Just how I like it

Standard camber on standard ride height is -1.0 degree. You'd need about 3-4 degrees to cause abnormal wear. Which is easily visible and would leave a smooth wear pattern. Toe is harder to see and leaves a rough pattern. "Providing you don't liff off.." TRUE, but this can be necessary on public roads

rcoaster? Trust me, we have the plaides star symbol over here too!

I think you need to look again. I made this mistake with my old Legacy. The thing you are pulling is the "easy entry" facility that lifts the steering wheel all the way up. There is a separate black lever for setting the height. It's so cool!

Have you tried opening/removing the air intake system. Maybe your air filter isn't mounted right?

The cold rad only indicates that coolant is no longer circulating. This can happen for a number of reasons: Thermostat stuck Waterpump impeller loose or missing propellers Timing belt slipping on water pump wheel Waterpump bearing seizing Vapour lock in the water pump Blocked radiator or coolant hose Running very low on coolant Vapour lock means there is gas in the system, could be atmospheric air from the rad replacement, could be compression/exhaust gases due to a small HG leak. Do a site search for "coolant replacement" that's my best bet at getting it done without air bubbles.

Hmm, from a more philsophical viewpoint: The Forester is a more honest design, pure in it's inspiration. The Outback is a jacked up Legacy. I would choose a Legacy. But otherwise a Forester.

IF you still have trouble, replace the "coil pack" and the "igniter".

Ten years before exhaust and possible HG problems. Service the EJ22 properly and it will go at least 300k miles.

Sounds like "diode bridge" failure in the alternator. (Aka rectifier)

Just trying Standard procedure with grinding gears: Clutch adjustment Oil level/condition Linkage adjustment Bearing failure

Light Sabre? Could be the radiator cooling fan. Can you feel a very slight vibe in the steering wheel when the noise is there? If so, that's the cooling fan.

Try fitting a STi high pressure rad cap.

Well, it does sound like your clutch is not fully disengaging. How old is the clutch cable? If Josh and yourself couldn't find anything wrong with the adjustment, then maybe the cable itself is tired. Of course it could be something less obvious, like oil on the clutch plate. If the rear crank seal is leaking, this could leave a film on the flywheel that drags the clutch along, even with the pedal down. This might explain why leaving it standing reduces the problem? Maybe. Or, you need to replace the gearbox oil. Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 has recieved a lot of praise from a local Dane who rallies an Impreza Turbo. Might be worth looking into. Otherwise, Castrol Syntorq has been a favorite of mine for a while. I have recently switched to Shell SF5288, but it's probably too thin for Texan temperatures.