Setright

Sounds like you need to have your wastegate examined. The gate itself is inside the turbo, but the valve controlling it is mounted across the outside of the turbo. A metal "bellow" with a rod going through it.

One part of the instructions is lost above: Remove the "sail" on the door mirror housing. It pulls off, held in by three "prongs". This could help you too, Canedog :-) Take the sail off and try again, sail on last.

If you have jack stands and a place to raise the front end safely, it's a DIY job. It would probably take me two hours, since I am quite meticulous - and there is always one bolt that won't come off without a fight. There is supposed to be a noise at full steering lock to either side, as the pump recirculates the fluid. Noise at all speeds could mean that the drive belt has been tightended to much and the pump bearing is worn out. You could start by just draining the reservoir and re-filling that with new fluid. Then swing the steering wheel from side to side to expel any air that might have gotten in. First with the engine off, the with the engine running. That will take 15 minutes, and replace at least half of the fluid. If you do it again after circulating the fluid, you will have replaced 75% of the fluid. Hmm, I am gonna do it this way in future! USMB, bringing you ideas as they are formed in peoples very minds!!

Alignment info should be in your owners handbook. Don't trust the tire shop blindly on this. I think it sounds like too much toe-in on the rears. Factory setting is 0mm, with a tolerance up to 3mm inward.

Thanks guys! Your stories give me peace of mind. I was in a "worry-spiral" about it yesterday because frost is setting in, and the noise is of course louder.

Hi all! My EJ20 has developed what I believe to be cold start piston slap. It's nearing the 60k milestone. Has anyone had an engine develop piston slap so late? Funnily, it started when I switched to Redline engine oil. I have since drained that, and re-filled with Mobil 1 again. (5W-50) But it's still slapping and sounding like a Diesel engine in the mornings.

From what I have seen, Injen products are good and well thought-out. The only fear related to some of the cold-air-intakes is that it places the filter too far forward and in particular too low down, so that water ingestion can become a problem. If you have a short ram, then that does not apply in any way. Enjoy your intake!

Main concern would be the quality of the filter. Do you have a photo of your own installation or a similar one?

Cohen quote, nice one frag!

I would stay away too. I share the view that a WRX is to be bought brand spanking new. Imagine the long term problems caused by the first buyer thrashing the poor engine from cold!

I would expect at least 60k miles from a Subaru genuine part. More if you don't do too much city driving, since the joint is turned less. Parallel parking is a big source of stress in this area.

Brus Brother is right, get some UV dye in the coolant.

OBD2 will have a data port under the steering wheel somewhere. Ready for plugging into a computer.

I used "Brembo" discs when I did the rears on my old Legacy. Perfect fit, fine quality. If they are cheaper, get them. I would stick with OE pads though. The last long and don't give any trouble. Front pads are more relevant to experiment with.

The Legacy is the only one that would seat 5 people in comfort. S40 is cramped, like the Saabaru 9-Impreza.

Someone beat you to it! http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/trolleyed/8/22/index.htm#afterburnerbb

I ca' nae believe it! Scootland? It will certainly be in good company, loads of Impreza's up there. The 22B will of course command their respect!

Well, changing the ignition barrel just involves a lot of disassembly and that often means breaking a few things on the way in....once you have the cowl off, you will be able to trace your way around and remove the barrel, but be patient! I would strongly recommend finding one a junkyard. If it's still in the donor car, you get to practice on that!

Does it ever freeze? If not, 5W-40 or 5W-50 will be best. 0W is really only and advantage below freezing.

Welcome Aboard! We hope you choose to fly Subaru Air again in the future :-) (How many posts am I up to??)

Most likely a wheel bearing. Probably rear. They can get REAL noisy. Do the swerve test suggest above. If it gets louder during a left turn, it's usually a bearing on the right. And vice-versa.

They probably can, Novocaine. Your bulbs are just blown.

Remove the steering column cowling. Four screws hold the cowl together. The ignition switch has a big black connector, with some thick wires in it. Use a mulitimeter to work out which one is the "start" wire and build that into your "immobiliser" circuit. Changing the ignition barrel itself is a bit of a pain, and the you will have different keys for the doors and ignition :-(

I just replaced the bulbs in my "Hazard Warning Flasher" and "Rear Window Demist" switches. They have never lit up during my time with the car. I got the new bulbs from a Mitsubishi dealer because that's closest. I have no idea what wattage the old bulbs were, or what the new ones are. But the switches are getting very warm! If this is normal wattage, no wonder these bulbs burn out so quickly.

I just tried Redline a few weeks ago. My car now suffers piston slap at start-up. I even drained the Redline and re-filled with Mobil 1, which has dampened the noise, but it's still not gone. Redline = Piston Slap My car never did this before, hitting 60k miles now.