[HTi]Johnson

Can you get a buddy and play tug o war? One has the head the other has the intake and twist and pull?

I believe any other EA82 GL.

That's odd that the cable has been breaking this often. How are your grounds? I've known these cars to ground through the clutch or throttle cable. That could cause weak spots then failure.

Fuel injected? Might be a throttle position sensor going bad.

Just don't go sticking ATF down your intake:drunk:.

HAH HAH I was laughing my rump roast off to that whole thread. Good work!!

what about water injection? You're going to boost an engine, might as well toy with it.

I plan on dyno'ing once I'm done, hopefully before I blow the engine. But dyno'ing is expensive. But worth it, if your serious.

A couple months back the info under your name used to say "+10,000 to my post count" now it's "+13,000..." fishy....

Look at the timing hole on the bell housing. There should be a spot where you could put a wrench on a tab and hold the flexplate/torque convertor in place. Then a breaker bar with a 7/8" or 22mm socket.

Check for loose or removed vacuum. I'd stay away from putting a carb on it. I had this problem with a turbo ea82...It did it with a different intake and turbo on it. My friends and I think it was a ring or head problem. How's your spray pattern look on the injector? Run some cleaner through your system then replace the fuel filter. I agree with above, do a tune up, check timing. Replace the replacable to reduce the variables.

Yeah, but then it's just another fast car. The rumble is what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. Thumbs up for the rumble, thumbs down for just another loud fast car.

I don't think you do. The only difference in EA82 drivelines/tailshafts are between autos and manuals.

You mean the two front halfshafts, right? I need to know this answer too, I'm going to do the exact same thing.

What ever happened to WJM? He's the one who said, I'm sure others have too, but he's the one I saw say it: "Reliable, Cheap, Power....pick two" that's how you have to build an engine. I have no clue on how much power can come out of an EA82t, but I agree with addressing the common issues...fuel delivery and cooling. I'm going to push my EA82t this summer. Stand alone fuel management (Megasquirt), custom fuel rails, oil cooler, bigger radiator, 2.25 exhaust, and spider intake. Why do this when I could swap an EJ into it? Because, I like the challenge, I like the fact that I have to figure it out. When I do blow the engine up, I'll think of the EJ then, but probably won't do it. I'll learn from the last one and make it better. This guy found out that the 3rd injector failed and caused 3rd cylinder problems. This was back in 1994 or 1995. If you look at the fuel delivery system you'll see that #3 is last in line to get fuel...leaving a theory that it will get starved and run lean.

It's the snow that will get ya. And it's not because of the moisture. It's because of the geniuses at the state level thinking that salting the roads is the best way to deal with snow, in Oregon, we use crushed rock...which still chips paint. That salt ends up on your car, causing any exposed metal to rust. I've had exposed metal on the underside of my daily driver for years now it's just now showing a tiny bit of rust. I could use steel wool to take it off. I live in Oregon, where it rains a little more than Arizona:grin:. But yeah, as for your 200k service . I usually get my cars after the 200k mark and they don't look anything like that.

Intercooler takes some custom fab. BOV is a blow off valve, it's the ones you hear. It just dumps the excess charged air out into the atmosphere. BPV is bypass valve. It's the same thing as a BOV but dumps the air back into the intake side of the turbo. Recycles the air per se. I'm not sure about having the waste gate unhooked with a BPV or BOV. I guess if you have the BPV/BOV set to dump at a certain PSI, it'd be ok to Bypass the wastegate, but I think not having a wastegate would overrun the BOV/BPV. What kind of car do you have?

I'm sure it's possible, with a ton of work. Might not be worth anything but bragging rights.

3 days left.

It's cheaper here

Just saw it tonight!

Read the red.

When was it last resealed? Don't know? THen reseal it. Unless you're profecient at and like to pull engines.

Sand it to see how far the rust goes. Then cut out a nice square section then replace with a piece of sheet metal, if you have a welder. You can tack weld the piece at the top then slowly work it down, contouring the metal to make it look good.

Front ones, you could modify the strut top bracket to any strut that you want, as long as it fits in the spindle...or you can make something that makes it fit...watch the length though, gotta be close to the same or your camber gets messed.