boing

I've been up to the baker lake resort area and it's awesome up that way. Sorry I can't join in.... I'm in Spokane. HAVE FUN!!!!!!! boing

Hi J J !! You are being very wise to post for that kind of information before you go and buy one. I have some information that may help. 1. Like mentioned previously... check for rust 2. Look very close at the boots on the cv joints... if there are even tiny rips they need to be replaced 3. This is really important.... Pay close attention to oil leaks. When you see oil on the bottom of the timing cover there is a good chance that the front seals need to replaced. 4. If there is any clicking while you are turning it's indication that a half shaft (cv joints) need to be replaced. 5. oil pressure is important too because it's common for oil pumps to go out. 6. It's a big help to know when the front and rear seals were replaced and when the last time the timing belts were replaced. 7. feel for clunking while shifting gears or when taking off and stopping. This could be an indication that mounts are loose or halfshafts are getting really weak. 8. You may want to think twice about a GL that has a tow hitch on it... Towing anything with them is really rough and not recommended. 9. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it off with your fingers to see if there is any small pieces of metal in it. 10. Be a bit cautious when you find an engine that has been detailed (cleaned, recently painted, etc.) Engines that have a recent cleaning may indicate that they've cleaned the sign of oil leaks. 11. If you are in the need of air conditioning and you have a seller that says it just needs freon recharge... remember that it is about 300 dollars to replace the O rings and recharge it. I have alot more that may help so if you have specific questions.. post them here. My hat off to you for asking first!!!! Great Job!!!! I have an 88 GL 3-door with front wheel drive/ four wheel drive that has a throttle body and a 1.8L engine and if I sold this car today I'd ask 2400.00 for it because of the great shape the engine and body is in but it's really common to find this same car for 500.00 or so here in Washington but they normally need some work (even if they run fine). Good Luck!!!! boing

You're right.. I have a GL and it only has single lights but dual elements. Ok. Thanks a bunch.. I can add some fog lights and I'll be good to go. boing

Hi, I'd like to know if there is a way to convert the way the high beams come on. Right now when I go to high beam the low beam lights go out and I'd like to know if you can run these (and how) so that all 4 bulbs are lit when on high. I've seen this question before but I dont' think it was ever answered. I have..... 1988 GL 3-door w/throttle body and Overhead cam. I'd be grateful if somebody has a light switch or something that would allow all the lights to come on. boing

I have a 88 GL 3-door with throttlebody and overhead cam. When I bought this car it had 224,000 miles on it so I knew it was ready for some replacement stuff. I put new timing belts, all front and rear seals, timing belts, oil pump, cover gaskets, fan belts, fuel filter, plugs, wires, both front half shafts and wheel bearings, oil pan gasket, and flushed the radiator. I know have 247,000 miles on it and it's running great with very little leak (these things are really known for oil leaks). have fun with the new rig, boing

do you know for a fact that the light is burned out or does it just not come on? If the bulb is burned out.... be very careful not to put your fingers on the bulb itself... the oil from you hand will cause it to blow after a short time. If the bulb is still good but it just won't come on... check the fuses real close.

You may use the excuse "It's from too much valium taken over the years while raising twin daughters" Have fun with your handful there!!! If you follow the directions carefully and make sure that you're using the three hash marks (with the arrow pointing at the middle one) and having one belt located so the tiny hole at the top of the sprocket is at 12 o'clock and the other belt with the sprocket hole at the bottom (at 6 o'clock) you'll do fine. If you have problems with it keep asking questions... I'm tellin ya these guys are really good and communicate pretty dog gone well. boing

Hi, I can guess that it actually was the timing belt that started the problem in the first place. When you talk about the timing marks are refering to them or the (lighter) hash marks? Give us more information about the car and that will help. What engine? fuel injected or throttle body? Overhead Cam or valve? Turbo or nonTurbo? any other information you can come up with. boing NOTE: have a little patience these guys are goooooooood. I'm pretty sure you'll find out what's going on.

It's my advice to replace all the front seals, the oil pump with ring and gasket, and timing belt(s). It will really save you a lot of headache later. All the gang on here are guiding you the right way sooooooooo good luck, boing

I think I'd start by applying some penetration oil (or spray) towards the bottom side of the head of the screw and wait for an hour and then maybe try to fit a metric allen wrench. In the past I've used a six sided star screw driver..(sorry can't think of the name of the silly thing) and it worked in the stripped out hole of the screw head. Good luck, boing

Changing my ebay name might be a real hastle because I'm established with them now for over 6 years. However my ebay name is : boing9 I'm hoping all of you are having a cooler day today then yesterday. boing

There's been some good posts on this problem... cougar is taking it systematicly and that normally will make things work eventually. I wanted to mention...... Check all of your fuses and make sure they have good contact. Any sign of rust or dirt should be cleaned out and if need be replace the fuses. I've seen fuses do some weird things with Subarus. "If everything starts to fail.. Check the fuses"! ~Boing~

Hello Everybody!!!! You will probably find this hard to believe but the tiny town of LaConner, Washington used LeCar for their police cars quite a few years back. They put LePolice on the side of them. Pretty weird eh? As far as the GL ... I really like them and don't think they look so bad. You could always customize the entire grill and corner fronts from scratch I spose but I'm guessing it would cost you somewhere around 400-700 bucks. I have the 88 GL 3-door and really like the looks of the whole car. I'm about to go take a look at another GL (88) that somebody has for sale for 450 bucks but I learned my lesson well..... I'll check out all the oil and CV joints and timing belts and seals before I jump into it. Good Luck with the front end job... Nice meeting everybody. The Ole Boingers! "If everything starts to fail check the fuses" ~Boing~

sounds like the board has offered you some good advice. Very carefully drill enough for an "easy Out" to fit. The easy out will turn to the left and act as a new head on the bolt. It really may be of some help to spray that sucker a few more times too. Please post here and let us know how or what you decided to do. If you were removing the thermostat housing I'd think after you take it off that there would be a stub sticking out.... if so give vice grips a try.

Does anybody know where I can find a complete set of timing belt covers and gaskets? I'd love to put a brand new set on my 88 GL (5 speed-nonturbo-ohc-tbi). Please respond if you have a link.

well lets see.... right now if you replace all the T-belt cover pieces it would cost you about 85.00 and another 18.00 for the dumb gaskets so we're looking at somewhere around 115.00 with the tax. I really would like a replacement aluminium set and if done right they wouldn't even need gaskets because they can "piece meet piece" fitted. Wooohooooo let me know how you're doing with it. This conversation took place some other place too but it was a proposal to make a two piece plastic set. Nothing became of that or at least that I'm aware of.

I'd give dollars to donuts that the cv joint (halfshaft) is gone. I'd know that groan anywhere. Alot of times they will start clicking when you turn to pre-warn you of one going bad. Look at the rubber boot just behind your wheel on the axle. You'll probably find a rip or a tear. Post again to let us know.. we'll help you find the problem. boing

Honestly..... it would bring you more benefit if you put the trailer in the front. And.... You would get further.

Hi Spidez!! at 147k miles you should pay close attention to the timing belt cover area to look for even the slightest oil leaking from it. The front end seals and the timing belts are a good preventitive replacement. It wouldn't hurt to take a look. On the shifting issue... try shifting at 3200-3500 rpms.. my guess is you'll have better luck with second gear. The 2.2 is a pretty versatile and dependable engine but know this........... Never let it overheat and watch the oil very close. a few other things to look at (as a precaution) is the oil pan gasket, oil pump, half shafts(check the boots out real close and look for tears or rips). If this is fuel injected (full or throttle body) maybe add a bottle of injector cleaner every other tank of gas. boing

here's a picture of a damaged roll pin that doesn't look too bad but caused havac .

All three of my books say "never use the old roll pin" although I know many people do I really think you'd be better off with a new one. to find a new one just go to any parts house that sells the halfshaft with the pin in the box and have them sell you one just like it. I can't remember the size and if I remember right the book was wrong about the size (the one on my disc manual is too small). Soooooooby dealers have them in stock too. using a non-tapered end punch can save you from Rollpin Hell. boing If somebody will show me how to insert the rollpin picture that I uploaded here I'll show you one that took a whopppping 6 hours to remove.

When everything else fails you could make sure that the marks are both facing at 12 oclock with the slash marks (not timing marks but the slash marks) are in view with the pointer on the center slash. It sounds like you are one belt tooth off so perhaps this will take care of that. Give it a try and repost here please so we know where you are at on this. Thanks, boing

Certainly sounds like solenoid problem. Did you test the starter when you had it out? I have a shucks where I live that will test your starter so perhaps you have one there. Take it down and have it tested. Post here after you do that and let us know. Good Luck, boing

hi wrx... sorry for the delay... I saw some spot welding on the sides but I need to get back to the car and take a look. And yes... the radiator is mounted to this support... along with wire runs and couple other things. thanks alot, boing

I have the heater on defrost but as I put a load on (going uphill) the heat switches by it'self to bi-level and goes back to defrost when the load is off. It happens every time this way. Anybody have any ideas?? boing