Adam N.D.J.

Thanks all. Well, it's the usual Gen 2 digi problem, no guages work, high pitch squeal. Was just hoping that there has been some headway made on it. Looks like I'll prolly hafta sit down with the DVOM and start going through it, maybe I'll come up with something. I have a wedding I have to go to the 21st, so looks like another year that I won't make the show, that and I don't have a roo too take up there right now, turbo down for the dash and a bunch of minor repairs, and the Brat was not happy with the year and a half of sitting, chasing some probs in the fuel injection and the rag joint on the steering is shot. I will be gunning for next year for sure though.

Hey everybody, just got back from the middle east a little bit ago, and one of the first things I did was dust off my Roo's and go to start em up. Well, when I went to fire up the 84, turned it on and immediatly got the squeal of death. It funny, cause it worked just fine a year and a half ago when it was last ran, but now, dead. Has anyone made any headway with these, I know a couple years ago there were some guys (Rob maybe ?) working on seeing about getting these fixed. I'm sitting here with 3 dead dashes, and while I'm not an electronics expert I'm fairly competent with circuitry, and I can't see a dang thing wrong with any one of them, I've been over the traces, check the resistors, transistors, diodes, vr's, everything, over and over, and I"m getting a bit frustrated. After a year of driving bloated overweight military monstrosities I really want to take out the gracefully elegent hardtop, but can't really do that with a gaping hole where the instruments are suppose to be. Anyways, sorry for the rant. Thanks, and take care.

So the dash in my turbo finally died.. so I go to storage and pull out the two spares, shoulda tested em sooner, they are both dead.... so I start looking in to things. I found a transistor on the back of the "Trip computer"/Clock that was a little crispy looking, and had pulled away from the epoxy holding it to the board. It looks like an NEC C2334. In looking around for info on it, I came across a couple threads here with info, although they dead ended, and the latests post months or years old. I remember Turbone was a spearhead for fixing these, and in the last few years I figured he'd have gotten it, but the newest thread that I found talked of him converting dashes. I'm not giving up. I have been over all three dashes I have, comparing every component, every trace, and every connection. Of the 3 all of them have what appear to be back transistors on the back of the clock, and one of them has a "fried" diod on the front of the "Main Board" (the one with the guages on it). I'm going to get a new diode tomarrow. Of the 3, the ones with the "good" diode all power up, emit a high pitch squeal and light all segments on all the guages, except the tens and ones of the speedo, the one with the "fried diode" doesn't do anything at all, not even squeal. I'm going to see if I can find a new diode tomarrow and hopefully replace it this weekend. As for the clocks, I'm not sure what the transistor does, or if it's even bad. I'll try to find some info on the net on how to test a trasistor, if it turns out that they are bad, then I will try and get replacements for them, turns out Radio Shack doesn't have any, internet should be a better prospect. Anyways, if anyone has made any headway on this can I get that info, and if there is a fix, or someone that is fixing these, I have 3 that could use the works. Catch ya Laters. -Adam-

Kewl work. There definatly is a sense of pride when you do something like this yourself. Keep up the work. As for the strut extension, a lower extension is the way to go. I started with an upper, but the tires would rub all the time. I've been running my 7" lowers for about 4 years now, holding up strong. They are made from 1/4" wall that I pressed onto the strut. I did have a little trouble with the knuckle falling off the strut at full extension, so I added the tab. (if I had knuckles in better condition, it wouldn't have been a prob, but mine are pretty abused.)

This is an totally doable prospect. If you look at a coupe (like I just did), you will see that they too have a rise in the floor too (although not as high as a Brat). Essentially it comes down to this, if you look at your seats, they hit the rear wall at the top before they hit at the bottom (in mine, with EA82 seats, the bottom is 9 inches from the rear wall). So, this is how you would do it, take out the window, remove rear wall, move it back 9 inches, fill in any holes, install window and put in new seats. This will leave you with more leg room, and a nice 9 inch tall 9 inch long shelf behind the seat (perfect for cages, speakers, tools kits, ect, ect..)

Here ya go, this is how mine is mounted in, you can see the input for the front diff in the upper left corner. Good luck to ya, have fun.. btw, the big pipe running across the top is the exhaust, (In case anyone was wondering)

If you go into my photo gallery here in the USMB, I've got a few undernieth pictures, as well as a few pictures of th body pulled off the frame I built for the T-case conversion. Lots of luck, I love to see new stuff coming out. We need it, our off-road tech has gotten kind of stagnant lately.

There are some people out there that are actually working on this. Being stuck on Med-Hold with the ARMY in Georgia, I have had a lot of free time. SO, all my free time has been spent on the internet researching, and working in Autocad with a whole new IS design for my Brat. This will be a whole new, completely built from scratch suspension and frame, from bumper to bumper. With all the strongest stuff you can get. Supra rear diffs (capable of handling over 750HP), Cornay joints, Titan spindles, blahblahblahblah. Lots of stuff oging into this. I have pretty much 6 months of nothing but work going into this. I can tell you one thing, the initial is going to cost one heck of a pretty penny. But I think that once I have the ball rolling, and a prototype on the ground then all subsequent models will cost expodentially less. The nice thing about the design that I have is that you will be able to roll in a vehicle, put it on the lift, pull off the stock suspension, and sub frames, then roll the new stuff under and drop the body down on top of it. I don't know if any of you have seen the pictures of my last oops on my Brat, but it is a new, stronger, lighter version of whats under it now. ( I do need to do something as I have just a bare body sitting in storage at home now).. Be warned though, this is really only for the true hard core off roaders, out there, not really for the just every now and then, splash in a puddle behind the wallyworld kind of people. More like the Moad, Rubicon, Evans Creek kind of thing. Here is a little sneak peak for ya, as there is still about another 6 months to a year before we can expect to see a working model:

I agree with Scott on this one, way too much thought there. I give you an A for inovation though. I run with both rear axles in and the rear diff welded. If you drive it tame you won't have any problems. I have on a couple of occasions messing with some racers blown rears just by taking off hard. Although if you are sticking with an EA engine then you prolly won't have to worry about that too much. Lotsa luck with the swap.

Sorry I couldn't make it this year, but being on the other side of the united States, and stuck on a military base makes it kind of difficult. Kinda sucks that I can only make a show every couple of years. But hey, the military is one of the biggest funders of my Soob projects, (indirectly anyways). Given my pst patterns, I should be able to make it next year, provided no new wars, forest fires, hurricanes, floods, ect happen... till then, keep the pictures coming, that way I can at least see what I'm missing. Catch ya'll laters.

Hey everyone on the east coast, preferebly the south east coast. I'm taking leave on the 15th through the 20th of August for my birthday, wanted to see if anyone has anything going on that weekend? Cookouts, wheelin trips, anything??? Would like to get out and meet some of ya'll over here before I get shipped back to the west coast. Lemme know if anything is going down.

Where is this going to be taking place? If it's not too far away, I might be able to make it up there. Jes gimme a lon/lat and I can get an idea of how far/long it'll take me. Mmmm, real food. I just like that idea.... Ohkay, never mind, just looked at how far CT is, out of my range, need to keep trips under 500 miles. If ya'll do anything a little closer to GA, lemme know, I'll be down.

Hey everyone. I've taken up a new temporary residence courtesy of our good 'ol Uncle Sam. I'm at Fort Gordon/Augusta, GA. Looks like I'm going to be down here for a while too. So if there is anything going on, would be interested to hear about it. Catch ya Laters.

Hmm, sounds like a lot of fun. With my current living conditions, any South East Coast meets a possibility. That and I do want to meet you in person Paul. Would you gys mind if a Nissan crept into your midst for a little while?

I'm willing to point towards either a problem with the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the air flow meter. Is your check engine light on, or flashing?? That would help things out more.

That can't be a Trashwagon!!? It's all straight, looks like all the parts are origonal, and there's no off the wall kewl mods done to it. Or is this the before picture, and it will soon go under the knife to get transformed into a full fledged TW?

This is actually something that I have wanted to try out. They do look identical, and the wireing seems to be the same. Which of course there is no reason why they shouldn't be the same, as the are both MPFI, the only difference my be inside, as one has a different fuel map from the other one. Also check the harness on your N/a car, it may have the plugs in the engine bay for the missing stuff. Let us know what you come up with, as is may turn out to be uber-easy to convert an N/a MPFI to turbo'd MPFI, specially if all you have to do is swap out the computer then plug in the other little bits.

Couple of buddies of mine have ultimate sleepers: One is an old Ford Fairlane "Woody" wagon, with a 2.3 turbo, 5spd tranny, rear lsd'd 8.8. Puts down about 350hp, does the quarter in less than 14 seconds. But you can't tell from the outside, just looks like an old pile of ford. The other is an 83 Mercury Capri, basically the same setup, 2.3 ford, 5spd. But this one has a Holset turbo off a Cummins, along with the cummins intercooler, 35psi of boost, approx 480hp. And the car is completely gutted, weighs in about 2200lbs. Mine would have to be a 360, put a Huyabusa motor in there, or I've got a Yamaha 750 triple that puts out about 3x's the horsepower of the 359cc'd Soob. Either that, or a Gen I brat, tubbed 9" rear end, Tremec T-56 tranny, blown fuel injected 429, @ approx 900hp. As long as they don't pull up from behind you, and you don't rev it, you may have a chance of convincing them it's really stock. For the most part, I don't go for the sleeper approch, I like my cars to SCREAM "I'm better than you!!". My mustang had an 8-71 sticking out of the hood with an injector high-hat on top of it with 16" wide x 33" tall Mickey's on the back. My Brat calls out, "I don't even remember when I could last be called stock". Most people won't mess with me in it, and those that do, end up not doing it again. And my 84, well, it rolled off the dealer lot with more turbo stickers on it than the back wall of the local "tuner" shop! No hiding that, unless I "debadge" it, which of couse is sacreligous.

welp, sitting here in my room of the comfort suites, nothing to do. Least I got the board. I will be in Portland on Saturday night though. If anyone up there wants to meet up.

Hey all, I'm gonna be in the Salem/Tigard area this weekend from Thursday until Sunday (2nd-5th). Don't really have anything to do in the evenings (will be busy during the day unfortunatly). But would like to out and hang out with some of ya, specially the ones I haven't met yet.

Also make sure that the bolt isn't messed up, if the threads are pinched even a tiny bit it can make it had to get in by hand.

Mine is the only one I've seen in my area. Seen 3 wagons, and a couple of Brats, but as far as I know, only one Turbo Hardtop in the Rogue River Valley. Also, does anyone else have a "Lightning Silver" one? And has anyone seen two with the same decals? Everyone I've personally seen have had different graphics, thats counting online pics. All different kindsa layouts. This is my 84:

You will have quite a bit when the suspension first hits the ground. I have about 15 degree's when my suspension is at full droop. And it stays there untill I drive it, or you can jump up and down on the front to help settle it some. I've got 0 camber on mine, although I have a different set-up on the struts, and don't know anything about AA's stuff.

For most vehicles built before 1996, the production year starts in August. Most manufacturer still do this today, although some don't. If you have a car that was built in 10/90, then it is a 91 model year, if it's a 07/90 then it is a 90 vehicle. Like my Brat, it was built 08/81 so it's an 82. Vin is a pretty good identifier, although not totally. I did have a truck come into work that had had the door replaced, and the dash. So it had 3 different years, and 3 different vin's in it. I had to find the one on the frame to come up with the right year and everything. SO you can't be 100% by looking at just one source, more is better...

Um, from the sounds of it, the only thing thats really going to be Subaru is the body. Like pull all the suspension and stuff out from under the Soob, then pull the body off the GM pile*, then bolt the Sube body onto the frame. Hook up all the essentials, cut a little here, bang with a hammer there. . . . . * Sorry, I have a real love/hate relationship with GM products. I love the fact that they are such piles that they break down way too much, thus giving me stuff to work on and make money. However, I do hate working on them, almost everything about them is backwards, or just messed up. Although it would be kewl to see a Soob on 38's, I say go for it, if ya got the time and the skills then it shouldn't be too big of a problem. Just hook the brakelines to the Soob master cylinder. Swap over what wireing is needed to get the motor to work right. Fab up an adapter to hook the Soob steering column to the steering box. Make/modify the body mounts to bolt into where the suspension did on the body. It's a 3 day weekend, lets see some pics on Monday.