l75eya

Still on rockauto. I see a clutch pilot bearing, I see a clutch release bearing...... Can anybody give me a little low-down on where these go and the difference between the two? Are there any difference between the FWD or 4WD or 4WD D/R of either? I want to replace as many things as I logically should while the trans is still sitting on my floor." Essentially, if you go to rockauto and look up an 87 GL and then expand the manual transmission box, I'm curious about every bearing and seal listed in there. Does anybody have a blow up diagram of the trans? That'd be helpful.

in a stock vehicle, my 5 speed d/r spins the motor at about 4100rpm at 80.

I just drove 200 miles round trip and on the first leg of the trip I was cruising at 85 - 90 mph the whole way. I've hit 105.

Hahahaha!!! Damn right. Funny enough though, I pulled the dipstick and looked at the gear oil that's in it right now and it's nice goopy and clean. It looks like it was just replaced. Either way though, yes. As soon as it's in, that's all getting drained and some real expensive (royal purple or the like) is going in there. Thanks Mr. Loyale! Now, ibreakstuff, I compared the Exedy clutch kit for an 87 4wd GL to an 89 XT6 (beck arnley) and they all have the same specs. 8 7/8" diameter 225mm, 24 spline. Where's the difference?

yeah, it's an 85 gl 5 speed dual range trans and it is going in to my 87 gl 5 speed dual range. The dual range in my 87 is not healthy, and this is it's replacement. ibreakstuff, why would I do that, and what are the specs? I'd HAVE to get an xt6 clutch kit then?

Any particular seals I should replace also? And the clutch alignment tool, I've heard some people not use it, what gives, do I need it? Adding to this as I think of things, I've been searching for the part number for a d/r 4wd 5 speed GL clutch cable. Anybody know?

Look what I got! 89k on it, has been sitting in a container at the junkyard I picked it up from since 1993. Car it came from was an 85 so it was only used for 8 years. High mileage for it's age, but low mileage for me!! The trans in my car is getting pretty bad too so it couldn't be better timing. Anyway, excitement aside, reason for posting; I'm going to be scouring all the threads on how to swap transmissions out, as I've never done one, as well as clutch jobs as I figure I may as well put a new clutch in while it's all apart. I'm figuring I'm going to pull the car up on ramps on all four wheels, that should give me a pretty good working space underneath the car. Do I need to remove the flywheel and have it re-surfaced? Is that advisable? My car has 82k on it. Also, should I go through the trouble of cleaning it up and painting it before installing it? Any tips or things to check on beforehand? I have a lot of questions about how things are going to connect, but I figure as I take my trans out I will see. Glad I've FINALLY found one.

That crank sensor code shows up when the motor is not running

The EGR solenoid is easily replaced by any EGR solenoid from late 80's early 90's cars. Go to a junkyard and find a car from that time period, look for the EGR valve (there should be a diagram of the vac system on the hood of most cars). Once you find the valve, follow the vac line connected to it and it'll lead you to the solenoid. Pluck it, wire it in to your car and connect the hoses and your check engine code for the EGR will be gone. About the crank sensor, I didn't think these cars HAD a crank sensor. Is it turbocharged? SPFI? Now as far as taking the bulk out for the light, that'll work. These cars are pre OBD so they can't hook a computer up and check anything. You're probably going to fail anyway if the EGR isn't working, but even if you go and fail, that buys you more time, doesn't it? I got a buddy in Pittsburgh. I was out there a few months ago. Good luck with everything.

I started up the gl today and it was ticking. I revved the motor at a steady 2k for about 6, 7 minutes. Tick gone. Highway runs get rid of it for me too. I'm still on my original oil pump and gasket though, so that's probably why my car does it. With a fresh seal, idk. I'd change the pump too. I've seen them for roughly 60 dollars. In my opinion any 5w oils are not a good idea for these cars. 10/40 should cover most bases.

Rockauto.com

That is the same device that fixes my squeaky brake caliper and my failing transmission.

If the car is 4wd You could separate the bad axle and keep the stub in place (part the axle nut attaches to) and put it in 4wd in a pinch. It will essentially be a rear wheel drive car at that point, though if you still have one front axle in it'll wear your front diff out so it's advisable not to leave it like that for a prolonged period of time.

If yours is so slight, another thing you might try is changing the weight of oil you use next oil change. Whats in it now?

gloyale what kinda Nissan did those chrome 14"s come off of?

Awesome! looking forward to your progress

jeep forum quote for ease: All credit to the forum and members linked above.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-carb-choke-adjustment-help-868173/ Post number 8 here by mcmud is excellent.

I think the electric part of the electric choke is only used for when the choke is opening. Not setting it when it's cold. Iirc

You can use an EGR solenoid from practically anything. I have one in the car from a ford tempo. There's somebody on here with one from a cadillac. Just trace the vac hose from the egr valve from a late 80's plus car and you'll reach the solenoid. snatch it, wire it in.

Guy is asking 50 for two of them. Hoping he'll come down on the price, not that that's a bad price, but I'm cheap. They're also on the other side of Jersey. Wonder if I'll ever find another two though =\

If you look carefully you'll see what part of the cover you need to break off to get the pump off

You can replace the pump without removing the belts. Or the covers (completely). I had to change mine quickly after getting my car and it had the covers on. I drilled holes around the part of the cover that interferes with the pump coming off very carefully, and then around the edge of the cover and snapped that piece off. It's not the right way to do it and you have to take care not to Nick any critical components with the drill, but it's doable

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/4678664054.html

Patrick any chance you could send me the PDF you have made for installation of the 2" lift and x member drop so I can review installation? I'll pm you my email address. Thank you