Cyfun

O M F G That's insane. What did you have to do to the suspension? And why did you mount the fuel tank in back instead of the front? I suppose I should ask where the build thread is on this.

Nice, that's the one I was eyeing, too. Can't beat 13 darra shipped. Fekin love ebay. I just scored a pair of KYB-clone 4runner front struts for $28 shipped and Moog progressive rate rear coil springs for $34 shipped to go on the back of my GLW.

Just curious, Fishy, who'd you get it from on fleabay? Figure for ten clams, I might give that a shot, see if it solves my hesitation issues. The ones I'm seeing on eBay are from $13 to $30. Still cheaper than local parts stores at $50 to $100...

Maybe the tensioner is tired, cause I'm pretty sure slipping on the right side is the most common place for it to slip if there's slack.

Holy 7-year old thread resurrection, Batman! What ever happened to this?

Congrats on not having to crack the transmission. And it sounds like that axle needed replacing anyway.

Interested, how much are you asking?

After tearing more into the rear cross member, realized I was a dumbash and what all the parts are for. I updated the list, and plan on making a more detailed write-up on each component of the lift and its significance. I know I could probably get away without lowering the rear crossmember and just muscling the rear trailing arms down, but I have something unusual planned. I'm currently replacing the rear struts with 4runner struts and Accord springs, and then I will be relocating either the top or bottom strut mount so that it's angled sharper. That will give me more travel and a smoother ride, and with any luck help with my articulation issues. I'd prefer to shift the upper strut mount, but there really isn't any room unless I tear out that bump stop bracing in the car's body. So my other idea is to cut out the bump stop plate on the trailing arm, then weld a new bracket for the bottom of the strut up an inch or two. We shall see what happens.

Hell, I'd rather have the torsen than the locker for on and offroad driving. I mean, a locker would be BEAUTIFUL offroad and only offroad, but with a torsen if you get one wheel up in the air, just apply the brakes a bit and it will give enough resistance to the spinning wheel to send power to your good wheel. Then when you're just driving in the packed dirt or the snowy pavement and going between high and low traction situations, you won't worry about wearing tires or axles or the diff.

I'm still curious as to what some of these extra pieces are, though. Here's that pic from T'subaru's post, let's see if we can identify all this crap. I left out the diff plate, though, as I already have that done. My main concern is #8, cause I have no friggin clue. Edit: Think I figured it out. 1) Front strut lifts 2) Rear K-member blocks, rear parts 3) Rear strut lift brackets 4) Trans crossmember blocks 5) Engine crossmember blocks 6) Part of front radius rod blocks 7) Other part of front radius rod blocks 8) Rear K-member blocks, front parts

I'm pretty sure a few of the ones in my HF pack were triple throw. In fact, I believe one of them is momentary when up and stays when down, not sure what the acronym is for that. But here's all the DP3T stuff on Mouser.

I got a big pack of various switches from Harbor Freight for fairly cheap, rated up to 30 amps. But what I've been wanting to do is to steal a delayed wiper switch/relay setup from another car, maybe a newer Subaru. Cause with those, if you spray the washer fluid, it will automatically run the wiper for 4 or 5 swipes, not to mention having an intermittent delayed wiper. Drives me nuts in the winter to have to flick the rear wiper on and off every few minutes.

Holy ancient thread revival, Batman. How many of you guys have smartphones? Just get a dash mount for it and use an inclinometer app.

Thanks for the link. I think I need to lower my rear K-member by about two inches, since I've been running it at a two inch strut lift just fine. I just ordered up some 4runner front struts and Honda Accord springs to replace my stock rear struts, and since they're stiffer, my plan is to change the upper mount so it's angled much sharper, thus giving me more travel and a smoother ride. If I have more travel, that will help immensely with my articulation issues. Funny that SJR's 4" lift doesn't appear to lower the rear K-member at all.

Gotcha, was looking at that pic too. But what about blocks for the rear K-member? I made my 4" rear strut brackets, but I can't get the rear control arm to pivot down far enough to install the damn things.

I've been running on a homemade 2" strut lift, and am now working on making a 4", but of course this means an assload of body lift blocks. I've searched and searched, and found plenty of pictures of SJR lifts and other homemade lifts, but haven't seen anything that really lists all the components needed. So here's a picture of someone's lift. I didn't use SJR's cause I'm sure they don't want to help people steal their ideas. If anyone can help me identify each of these parts and where they go, or if I'm missing anything, me luv u long time. 1) Front strut lifts 2) Engine crossmember drop blocks (i'm guessing) 3) ??? transmission crossmember drop blocks ??? 4) ??? part of the radius arm drop blocks ??? 5) ??? other part of the radius arm drop blocks ??? 6) ??? 7) ??? 8) ??? rear suspension K-member drop blocks ??? 9) Rear strut lift brackets

Impreza's i believe have the same spline, but the horn is different. Do what I did: get an EA82 wheel from the junkyard for a few bucks, cut out the hub, weld up a bracket for your wheel's pattern. Helluva lot cheaper. And the last time I bought a steer wheel adapter, it was so poorly made it broke while I was installing it. Better that it break then than while I'm in the middle of a big drift.

upload them to tinypic I'm amazed more people aren't running LPG with their Roos, especially in foreign countries. You'd think at least a few of the yuppie Portland, Oregon Subaru drivers would be into that crap. I'd love to run dual fuel, but I don't think I could afford shelling out a $hitload of money to do it.

Wow, way to resurrect a 6 year old thread. xD But nice trike, tweety, I dig the inline fighter-jet style seating.

That sucks. At least a lot of places still have some stockpiled. And you could always go with the cheapo OEM replacements. Wonder if SenSen makes one. If worse comes to worse, then it'll be EJ knuckle/strut swaps for the lot of us.

Yeah, you could do the two front ones under the hood after they split, but the rears would have to be done in back. Unless you wanna run individual brake hardlines for both rear wheels and have them branch in front. But this stuff is electrical, so it would mean just running some more wires, no big deal. I just wish I had $160 to blow on experimenting with these solenoids.

I'd start with a Legacy since they're usually cheapest and easiest to find, cause you can always lift them to Outback/Forester clearance easily.

True, starting with an EJ platform has many benefits. However, there are two reasons I prefer the EA: the narrow width of the wheel track, and the extremely tight turning radius. I wonder if one could make an EJ with the turning radius of the EA. Is it all in the steering rack?

Since when?

That's not bad. What kit did you use? Or did you custom make it?