tysn

yeah its a 4.0 HO , whats TU?

i didnt buy the jeep to replace the legacy no worries. i have a 94 cherokee and bought it with known electrical problems, the problem is the jeep will run for 15 seconds to 5 minutes and jsut die. i work at a jeep dealership and they hooked it up to a scanner and got a code for the crank sensor. that was replaced and it still does the random dying. the scanner after the sensor was installed said there was no crank refference even with a new sensor. my mech buddy said it may most likely be the computer. are any of you subaru guys out there pretty good at guessing what else i could check related to this?

im sure the stock size is 185 70 r 14 thats what my leg has also and seems to get along nicely

A/T it was working, i had the driver front and pass rear digging the pass front and driver rear were up and down.

well i was out on a butte jsut seeing how the legacy did in the coarse sandy hill. it made it to the top with minor problems, i came to turn around and the car just dug in a bit. are there any pointers for maybe not getting stuck the next time? ( besides not going out there to start with)

i did a search on torque bind and bought some new tires that were all the same but it didnt help, finally i did some 8's in reverse and drained the tranny and lo and behold the binding quit.

so i bought this wagon and it has a previous impact to the rear left tire and quarter panel. i took it to work to have it aligned and the rear tire is toe in and camber out. the tech said the camber is a shade too far out to ajust with new camber bolts and there is no adjustment for toe. what parts on the rear are what holds the toe and camber?

i had some buddies from work put it on the lift at work and we drained the rear def and shook the driveline. the front ujoint has some play and the rear def case had some bad wear on the input shaft. so what are my options now?

i just bought a 90 legacy for 75 bucks from a dealership. it has 172000 miles and runs great. the car had a impact to the rear left quarter panel and the tire took part of the impact. at speeds of 25 mph or higher i have a weird grinding whiring noise that is coming from the rear def / driveshaft area. how can i narrow it down? what can i check?

back when i had the xt turbo 2wd i got it up to 112mph it still had some rpm left, ill never go that fast again though.

did the ea 81 t have a timing belt?

i work at a body shop as a grunt, something like that they would put it on a frame rack and pull it straight and check to see if it was square with their little measuring stick. also using the gaps on the hood to make sure they are the same on each side.

i thought the lesburu was the outback wagon?

since when does medford have a craigslist?

+2 i do these on a daily basis ( all types of vehicles ) if you don't have the proper tools id leave it to the pros, thatway you know it gets done right. that and you know it won't leak.

my xt didn't have the serpentine belt, it had 3 belts. i think it was the xt6 that it.

wrong section of the country, why can't you be in idaho, id take it off his hands.

lol ill tell you what, find me a free or really cheap 4wd 5 speed justy in northern utah or south east idaho and ill be a believer. lol jk i just want one

got pics?

ill take it for free

why couldn't that car of been around last week before i bought my new accord, agh, hey sako how is that wagon coming for you?

i was passing by there the other day making a delivery for work and wondered what the heck happened to it.

which has a better mpg rating?

well im getting myself ready to get a car, my last subaru was a xt turbo, i am a student and i have to drive my stuff from oregon to idaho. the xt could fit all my stuff had it not had the spare tire in the trunk, the thing i didn't like about the car was its lack of space for seating people in the back seat, ( i had to have the seat all the way back. i woud like a wagon with-out turbo, or a 3 dr coupe, i just need some input on which would suit my needs, the idaho winters there is at times ice 6 inches thick on the road, 4wd or awd would be a good thing to have i think, manual. which will get me better fuel mpg? pt4wd or ft4wd (all wheel drive) ?

so if i say found an rx or a turbo 3 dr coupe with a dead engine, i could go plug and play with a xt non turbo motor till i got the turbo motor fixed?