JWX

Your buddy is right, even if the techs knew what to do, they wouldn't have the tools needed to do much(not that they would need them, but still). There isn't much you can do with the carb, I would swap it for a Webber. You could look for all the other problems that would cause stalling with a carb-o-rator though. I would bet that its just worn slap out.

They went overly popular down this away it seems. They really aren't that hard to fix. A shop is going to charge you a boat load of money to make yours work again. You could try a dealership, but most if the techs there don't even know Subaru had cars from the 80s. Where in Atlanta are you?

To add to what GD has said. No, running regular gas won't magicly spin a bearing. It will cause you to det, and eat your pistons for lunch. Unless, of course one retarded the timing to let it run the lower grade gas.

You can run a MegaSquirt as an ignition only controller, it will also be able to datalog your sensors like that. There is also a product called "MegaJolt" that it basically a programable EDIS controller. A lot of the big V8 guys run a crank fired ignition with a carb.

MegaSquirt it with the ford EDIS system. Best bang for the buck to be had

Actually no, the best ones use Fuel injector duty cycle to calculate the water/meth ratios

If you don't mind rebuilt stuff, Asheville brake and clutch in Asheville, NC has a lot of experince building Subaru stuff. Here is there phone number, (828) 252-6470

Yea, that really doesn't sound like that bad of a price.

What front control arm are you guys using? regular stock one, or XT6?

Brake and clutch of asheville, NC. Give them a call and see what he can do for you, their number should be 828-252-6470

Are you saying you have a clutch kit for an auto?

Anything can be adapted to fit with enough R&D.

He should be able to just swap the LSD unit it self while using the Ring and Pinion from what ever diff he is swapping. Like the 3.9 LSD swap....

:-\ :-p

Thats what I've had to do, but I didn't know about that little plate until it fell out from be heating/pounding/everything else I could think of trying to get the cup off the diff.

Thats them saying to go faster.

Since the MS2 was out, I am also using an MS1 on my car, and gets an RPM. It hasn't ran yet for other reasons though. Now, does it do a good job? idk yet, but it isn't that different from a KA "CAS" and those run fine. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_subaru_rx_turbo.htm

Really? So you're saying that RE92s are what made Russ run into a gaurdrail at 15MPH? Its a good ecsape goat though.... I daily drive RE92s old enough to be dry rotted and I have no problem with them. Russ, that doesn't look to bad. It'll buff right out

GD, The MS can read EA82 CAS and obviously the EA81 dizzy. rojai1, Why use the MAF? The MAP sensor alone will work just fine. The MS needs a 0-5v maf, which I don't think the SPFI MAF is, as the turbo one is 0-10v. You could retrofit a Ford, or other 5v MAF I just don't see a point.

Don't blame the tires. They are NOT that bad.

wow thats tiny....

I had this problem in my hatch, so I got an 88 civic SI seat and cut the buttom "cup" out if it, then mounted it to a plate of aluminum(for lightness yo all I had at the time) and bolted that to the stock rails, moved back about 3-4 inchs. Helped a lot. Basically, I agree with most here, you don't need to get the saw-zall out and start cutting just yet.

:lol: :lol:

then do ett

JESUS H CHRIST ON A STICK MAKE UP YOUR MIND ALREADY!!!!!11111!1111 :-p