JWX

http://www.diyefi.org/ The guy that started this wanted a open soruce MS. Sounds basically like what you're trying to do here. I haven't followed what they've done for the past couple of years though.

The problem with a MS basemap is that its only good for the firmware it was made on. So all of Will's are for regular B&G MS2 code (firmware 2.x Iirc), and I had a couple for one of the early MS2/extra releases, but I could never get the car to even start with it. I also had one for one of the last MS1/extra codes, but it's long been lost. You're MUCH better following the manuals for your firmware and getting the car started.

Why not just find a EZ30D car and swap stuff over?

I used 60mm Nismo studs on my old RX, no mods were needed although they were LONG. I'd get the 50s if I was doing it again.

Rx's already have a rear LSD and the one in that car was nice and tight when I had it.

That car already has a 20mm front sway bar on it. You're running into what me and Will did when we ran them. It's pretty much either 5lug swap time, or look into wider 4 lug stuff.

Still on my list of what to buy.

One of MY old RX's actually, as I'm the one who built the car. I bought it from Will in a mostly stock condition. Just felt the need to point that out for some reason... As pointed out earlier in the thread, Will doesn't have any RXes anymore. I have the two that he had, one of which I had sold him anyway. I've scrapped most of the ones that I had since no ones wanted to buy them while I had storage for them :-\ I still have the Rotary and a nice 88 one, neither one runs though.

The struts are actually D2 coilovers, made for I believe a GD sedan. I'm thinking that could be the problem...

I'm having a problem on a certain 87 RX that has a 5 lug swap. Car has 04 STi knuckles, with a 97 Impreza L axle on Passenger side and a XT6 axle on the Driver. The problem I'm running into is that I can't get any neg camber the pass. side. The axle seems to be bottoming out before I get it where I want it. On the driver side, I do not have this problem. When the PO tried this same thing, he ran into the same problem. I ask you guys who have done this before, what do you think the problem could be? If you could also list what knuckles/axles you are running I would appreciate it.

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_subaru_rx_turbo.htm I would recommend not using the factory engine harness though, as it will cause you nothing but headaches. Either way, using the settings in that article will start the motor at the very least. I would not recommend using someone else map, as it could be nothing but problems. Far easier to just start frm scrach.

Wouldn't your insurance company treat her as a "uninsured motorist" at that point?

Its really not "as" bad as these guys say, I'd consider it better than the talon really. Mostly because once you're done working with all the main maintenance items, you can actually drive it awhile before it breaks again. Seriously though, with some TLC and some smart, well thought out mods, they're pretty capable cars but if you're looking for a lot of HP, its better to swap it. You'd be wasting a lot of money on it, when the same amount on money on an EJ would get a lot more power, and it would be reliable. Also, it needs some sort of programmable EMS before you even think about touching the boost. I know your talon can take like 40lbs before you need even a SAFC, the RX is not that boost friendly.

You only lose turning radius. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure practically a bolt in affair. I've mocked it up before, but never actually finished it.

I figured I'd chime in here since I own WJM's car now. Unfortunately, it is still not running, but its almost back together again. Its just slow going as I don't have much time to work on it between work, school, life, and my other cars. The one here at the shop actually has an MS1, running the MS1/extra firmware. I'm trying to get that one ready for the new owner to pick it up, again with that time thing. There have been at least two other guys who have used that article, one of which was on RallyRuss's old car. As far as I know, its running around some where in SoCal.

If I had the right drive shafts they are. I also know that the flanges are the same on the ones that I have seen at least.

where are those from?

This is a very interesting thread.

Is that all you have so far?

I will buy a set and pay for shipping. Will you be building these after the show or is it a one time affair?

Summit has an MSD pump that is suppose to pump like 190lph.

They are EV1 bodied injectors. This means that ANY EV1 body style injector will fit.

Call Folger automotive in Charlotte, NC, ask for Mike(I don't have a number handy for them). Tell him Justin sent you. He'd be happy to get rid of them.

I know where there is a bunch of them. Everytime I talk to him he wants me to buy the whole lot. I'm also pretty sure TWE will build you one if you call, had a customer of mine try that, but they wanted too much money.

Your buddy is right, even if the techs knew what to do, they wouldn't have the tools needed to do much(not that they would need them, but still). There isn't much you can do with the carb, I would swap it for a Webber. You could look for all the other problems that would cause stalling with a carb-o-rator though. I would bet that its just worn slap out.