el_freddo

Split transmission to remove the circlip that holds the diff stub axle in place. No other way to do it other than brute force - and lose the circlip in the box. Not what you wanted to hear I bet. What’s the issue with that stub axle? They’re pretty tough things! Cheers Bennie

Easiest way todo a H6 “conversion” is buy a H6 model and convert it to manual. Much easier than an engine conversion! Forester rear struts won’t work on the Gen 3 platform, later model units from the SH onwards *might*. Many do a 2 inch strut lift without any issues. As GD said, replace your current springs for a standard height King spring (HD if you want a firmer ride) and you’ll be set. If going for raised springs you’ll have to add in subframe drop blocks as well (also known as a lift) to keep the CV angles happy. This build aims for best approach, departure and ramp over angles on a Subaru. SLO does a “monster lift” kit and others too that have the subframe drop from memory, they also do strut lift blocks if you’re just wanting some easy height over stock. Cheers Bennie

Don’t think so. They’ll be like any other cam type caliper. I did mine on the L series in a car park before a 4wd trip. Took an hour or two all up from memory: Basically pull them apart, clean up any rust or dirt build up, grease the new square edge O rings (with brake fluid from memory), refit pistons and dust covers. You can try filling the caliper with brake fluid to reduce the amount of time and effort required to bleed the brakes once it’s all fitted back as it should be. The important bit is that your pistons and cylinder walls aren’t pitted. From memory the piston sides are chromed and you want to avoid pitting on them, but you can get away with some or minor pitting. The cylinder wall can’t have any pitting otherwise the seal will be damaged. This is the reason why you should replace your dust boots if they’re ever torn! I hope that helps. Cheers Bennie

It could also be a gearbox input shaft seal that’s leaking. Not common over here but I’ve heard of it happening on the single range gearboxes via this forum. I replace the rear main seal when I have the engine out - genuine only. Lube it up with a rubber grease (moving parts only) and it’ll be just like the old one. Oil separator plate will surely be the plastic unit, that era of subaru seemed to be the guinea pig for this change. EJ clutches are basically all the same except the pull style clutch found on turbo models - they’re very different in operation and will not work in a push style clutch (push is what you’ll have). Cheers Bennie

Meh, all good mate. The excitement of a new vehicle and forum to explore, I get it! Cheers Bennie

G’day Warren, Your brat is the first Gen. You’ll be best to post in the 70’s subforum above this one in the main home page. Cheers Bennie

As others have mentioned, there are many options and it depends on how you want to go about it. There was one in South Oz that was done on a classic Range Rover body. Actually, thinking about it now it was a L series wagon but the principle is the same. Cheers Bennie

Brumby loving. Been a while since I’ve had her running well enough to have a drive on the open road let alone loaded and towing! Cheers Bennie

It could be plastic moulded/welded to the underside of the trim - you know the trick, plastic tab through a metal bracket, heat and pressure applied to the plastic tab to melt it and make it hold the metal bracket in place. Someone may have forced it in the past for whatever reason and busted the plastic melted tab pieces. Pull it out and have a look would be the easiest way to find out - I understand the want for information before you dive into it. Cheers Bennie

Are you running an AWD box Steptoe? It’s the only way I can see you experiencing the rear diff noises you describe. I cheaped out on the fix by shoving strips of old rubber conveyer belt in the gaps of the bush. It did the trick. But this bush would be so much neater and all round better, it’ll be something I look into. Cheers Bennie

It’ll bolt in no worries and will be physically the same in fitment. You’ll lose your dual range feature as the WRX box won’t have this. You might find a difference in the front diff setup - impreza might still have the diff stubs, your 2003 forester will surely have the male stub axles. I don’t know if the impreza driveshafts will swap into the later model forester. You might find the gear ratios sluggish to work with the large tyres and the difference in revs between each gear will be different too. If the impreza box is a four bolt (stud on the lower starter motor mount is the easiest way to identify), it’ll be in the weaker phase 1 front case, but it could be a phase 2 eight bolt gearbox which is what your SG would have anyway. Cheers Bennie

You can use a coupe, wagon, hatch or sedan EA81 steering columns - but the ignition switch will be setup differently. Any other models will most likely need to have the mounts modified. I’ve seen WRX steering wheel and the matching columns fitted in Brats with a WRX conversion. You can do anything with enough effort and motivation to achieve the desired outcome... Cheers Bennie

I recently purchased a rear spring isolator kit from superpro USA for our Pajero/Montero/Shogun cheaper than I could buy the two individual kits from Oz - INCLUDING postage!! The kit I was after was no longer available in Oz. I don’t know how it is cost effective to produce a product, ship it OS, sell it then dispatch back to the country it was manufactured cheaper than the locals can buy it locally! Good product though. Cheers Bennie

Probably will be a stuck or sticky turbo shaft. I had the same thing on an EA82t that sat for some time before I purchased it. Turbo is still in bits... Also double check your cam belt timing, followed by your static spark timing. Cheers Bennie

Leaky head gaskets would be suspect number 1 I think. EJs can pop the head gasket that only leaks a tiny bit or only leaks under certain conditions. If you don’t know the history of the HGs I’d suggest it’s tie for replacement. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the conversion there @heartless, I didn’t think to include that. Cheers Bennie

Once the factory HG is swapped out for a genuine MLS HG the EJ251 is a great (generally) trouble free engine. My sister’s Gen3 RX Liberty (Legacy) has 470,000km and still counting. Only major issue is the IACV needs to be replaced but we can’t justify the $300+ cost of the unit here. The EJ251 with the manual in the wagon is a mint combination I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Ido converted all the important bits for the EA82. Some other points to note: - the coolant temp sensor (CTS) can cause loads of running issues if it goes out of whack, it won’t necessarily throw a code. - O2 sensors can also go offline/out of whack but not throw a code either. Generally an increase in fuel usages is the symptom of this issue. The auto: - most common problem is that governor issue you’ve already mentioned, followed by the seal between the auto and the front diff dying, it leaks ATF into the diff and vice versa, pinion bearing fails followed by pinion trying to drive itself through the centre of the rotating diff housing. Car stops nasty quick when this happens. Auto is a write off at that point. Spare parts for the auto will be harder to find than the manual box. It could be worth pulling the auto down to swap out the seal that’s the issue. Also a good time to reboot those CV joints with a quality item instead of waiting for the original CV boots to destroy themselves. It would be advisable to replace every coolant hose and possibly the radiator at this age. Don’t miss the little coolant hose under the intake manifold on top of the block, it’s a real bastard to get to! This could be a good vehicle to commute in but you might need to do some preventative maintenance before attempting this or run the risk of needing more work and parts shortly after getting it on the road. The EA82 is a. Engine that likes to spin fast, it’s no torque monster by any means and will happily rev at 3500-4000rpm all day with quality oil and coolant doing its thing. Cheers Bennie

Just watched the three videos and was hoping for a few more updates. Also a bit of a shame he didn’t use the Gen3 legacy multi link rear end, no need to cut into the upper bodywork to clear the strut towers. I’m also a bit jealous about what you guys can “get away” with over there. Here in Oz this thing would need a massive amount of engineering to be deemed roadworthy, and depending on which state you’re in also dictates what you need to do exactly! Cheers Bennie

Geez I never heard of this before! My brumby has three keys - ignition, doors and fuel lid lock. Got lucky on the fuel lid lock - it fits one of Ruby Scoo’s (L series) keys! Very lucky... Cheers Bennie

Two flat head screw drivers on opposite sides might get it out. Jam them in then lever it out with the screw drivers working about 180 degrees apart. It could work. No guarantees but worth a shot I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Steptoe you’re a genius sometimes! The most comfort I’ve found using spring compressors is with my impact driver. Makes the work super quick, easy and I believe safer due to less time spent with the the springs loaded with all that potential energy! Did you use the same method to remove the old bush? Thanks for sharing. Cheers Bennie

Makes sense now.

That or you’re wanting to show your money bags... er, note Cheers Bennie

What’s the pineapple for Steppy??