el_freddo

Metal zip ties are awesome to use too. Just ensure you get plenty of pressure on the boot before cutting the tag end short. Roll the remaining tag end over the zip tie’s clamping piece. This locks it in somewhat.

Man you’re nailing the MS-paint images!!

EA82 lyfe!

So no change or updates since your last post of the same content? Since there is no reply to your proposed variable switch I’m guessing it’s not a common thing to do. Why not just replace the knock sensor and be done with it?

I was a long time ago that I did an EA82 headgasket job - I don’t recall there being instructions to back off the head bolts in the process! Just use engine oil, nothing special required. If you dip the first 5mm of thread that should give you heaps of oil to play with. If you can use an engine stand with the cylinders vertical (engine 90° rotated), this will help keep the oil in the holes and not on your new head gasket. Oil pan, drain it. Then pull it off to clean it out. Reseal with quality sealant. Cooling passages - you’d probably be better off hitting any passages you can with a high pressure washer before starting any real work on the rebuild side of things. Just running water once the work is done won’t move anything. If it’s looking really nasty, getting a rod or a screw driver in there to remove scale can be effective. Ensure you get this crud out. When putting everything back together, clean all mating surfaces then wipe with methylated spirits or some alcohol wipe that completely evaporates without leaving a residue. Then apply your goo or gaskets etc and torque to spec. After about six months of continuous driving, it should develop an oil leak if you’ve done things right (joke! It should last longer than this!). EA82s always leak oil! On that note, they usually leak from the cam box where the sealant is the only barrier between the engine internal environment and the rest of the world. I hated this seal! Best method I found was to clean as described above, apply silicone to fill the channel and the edges of the mating surface. Then sit the cam box on the sealant and leave it to harden a bit before torquing the cam box down properly. And the VERY BEST method I found for EA82 oil leaks was to EJ it. The only EAs I tinker with now are EA81 units 😎

Forgot to mention checking your wheel nuts are done up tight. This is a quick and easy check that could save a lot of headache!

Check your tyres for a bubble or something odd. I went through a process of eliminating parts from the back of my L series including removing the rear diff and driveshafts! Turned out one rear wheel developed a small bubble/egg on one side of the tread. Swapped the wheel and happy days!

The most basic upgrades are a lift kit and tyres. From there the world of mods is your oyster - and it depends on what sort of offroading you want to do. My L series - Ruby Scoo - is built for some tough offroading with touring in mind while still a good daily if I need to do that again. So my list of mods: - EJ22 - 3 inch lift - lifted springs (need replacing now as they’re no longer lifted) - 27 inch diameter offroad tyres ^ this setup did me well for a long time. - Tricked up gearbox: — L series AWD locking centre diff gearbox with: — 4.111:1 diffs — front OBX LSD — Best factory low range: 1.59:1 — auxiliary oil feeders over low range for extended steep hill climbs - dual battery setup - rear cargo frame for fridge slide, bush kitchen & personal gear storage - safari snorkel - roof racks for recovery gear and maybe a swag depending on what I’m sleeping in - UHF radio mounted on the cab roof in front of the rear view mirror. Best location in my book with speaker closest to the driver and passenger’s head. Still have more plans in the wings. Looking at a 5 stud brake upgrade and 15 inch rims for more offroad tyre size choices. Got an auto locker to throw in too. Hope this helps show what’s possible out there. Not all of these mods are needed to make them really capable offroad. One of the best bang for buck mods I did in the early days was a welded rear diff. Drive around in 2wd with a rear shaft removed. Arrive where you want to 4wd, jack up rear end, slip shaft back in then point and shoot - tyres and lift clearances are the bits that hold you back. Now there’s an auto locker available (which is what I’ll be trying out). I used the welded rear diff without lift and tyres, I don’t recommend this! I inverted my floor pans as a result. They’re all good now as I hammered them back to where they should be.

Got pics to show the wear? Something must me misaligned - an idler pulley that’s worn, the water pump shaft worn out but this usually results in a leaking water pump.

I’d be working out what fried the ECU first! No use spending good coin on a replacement ECU only to have the same thing happen again!

I wonder if this is the turbo variant of the EA81 that you got over there but we never saw over here - except in private imports from Japan. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this!

^ they’re talking about the EA82. The 1990 and 1991 Leone ran the EA82, they started in 1984 which was the crossover year from the EA81 models to the EA&2 models (and maybe some left overs in 1985). The EA81 continued in the Brumby/BRAT until production of those models ceased.

That looks about right and should do the job. Another way to do it is with a piece of pipe with a slot in it, weld a bar at a right angle to to the top edge (when pipe is vertical on a bench). This bar will be used to hold the pipe on the outer CV’s inner race component that holds the shaft. Use a BFH of choice and go hard on the bar section to knock the CV off the shaft. Have the other end of the shaft held in a good vice like you depict in your diagram.

I thought all EA81 water pumps were the same and that the height difference was in the EA82 water pumps.

I hammer my stub axles in from the back of them. They seem to take a pounding ok. I don’t rely on the torque of the hub nut to pull the stub axle through the bearing.

I doubt you’ll find replacements other than the odd second hand unit that rarely comes up for sale. It would be cool to keep the air struts, to do that you’d probably need to find a suspension shop that specialises in this sort of thing. Take the struts in and leave your platinum credit card with them too. I’ve heard the air suspension rides very well. Any 4wd L series struts will bolt straight in. That will be the easiest way to get your tex on the road while you decide on/sort out/bin the air struts.

Personally I’d run it as it’s a small area - and you’re aware of it. That said, I’m no brake expert and others may disagree.

Fair enough if the maintenance work is becoming a challenge for you, can’t stay young and nimble forever! Thanks for verifying what was done.

When you say the master cylinder was done - what was done? Replaced or flushed and bled? If replacing I hope they replaced the slave cylinder too. It’s a lot of work for not much more effort. And typically if the master cylinder needs attention the slave will most likely go shortly after…

What year is the donor vehicle and engine management system from?

@itb482 - what’s your dizzy doing or not doing that requires it to be replaced? My first thought was to have the cam belts checked to make sure they’re not broken. If the LHS belt is broken your dizzy and cam won’t spin when cranking. I doubt you’ll find a turbo any better than the one you have now. You might be able to adapt a new one from a turbo ATV, they’re probably about the right size. Cheers Bennie

I Tee’d my mechanical coolant temp gauge into the heater hose on the outlet from engine hose. Works a treat. Personally I wouldn’t like to Tee into the factory location, moving both sensors away from the direct flow of the coolant wouldn’t be an accurate reading. I’ve not seen a coolant pressure sensor as a standalone aftermarket gauge, but I’m not looking for one either. Many ppl feel comfortable with electric sensors and gauges over the older mechanical equivalents. I’d buy from a reputable brand that you can get some after sale service with if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation of cylinder washing. I wouldn’t think you’d lose that much compression though unless rings are super shot already. But I could be wrong on that too. I too said it was unlikely all four cylinders would have a stuck valve. This one seems almost the same as removing the spark plugs and cranking. Cheers Bennie

Master cylinder is becoming gummy. It could be worth flushing the clutch hydraulic system. At worst you might need to replace the master cylinder. Or have the whole system overhauled. Also, the clutch pedal when it goes to the floor will not naturally return, at least in my Gen 1 RS Liberty it doesn’t.

A complete loss of compression suggests it’s mechanical. It would be odd for all cylinders to lose compression, yes, but stranger things happen though. Someone even suggested that the cylinder walls were washed and will come good. I don’t know what that means exactly though - but it is something mechanical that’s the issue. I’d be flushing out the old fuel rather than having the engine eat it. I’d put the highest octane fuel you can get and run that for several tanks, then return to your regular fuel octane rating you use. Cheers