
kevinsUBARU
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Everything posted by kevinsUBARU
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check out this and read to your hearts content http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html But to sum it up, it is different than a basic L because it has these features: Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: adjustable air suspension, body color front grill, mud flaps, woven cloth interior (instead of plush), under passenger seat storage tray, rubber cargo mat, luggage rack with Bike attachement, rear stabilzer bar, engine skidplate Yellow "Subaru" lettering with pine trees exterior graphics Make sure the air suspension is good working order or if it has been converted to regular suspension...that is probably the only thing that would worry me.
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If you are seeing it written in an ad or something, chances are the D had a little "Tail" on it which made it look like a P, and then the person in charge of entering it on the website/information packet/ect, ect obviously doesn't know squat about Subarus and thought that it should be AWP. I've also seen AWP used when refering to wheel horsepower on an AWD car.
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Haynes manual huh? I've been unable to find one locally so I might have to turn to the internet. The Chiltons one is the manual for 1984-96 Subarus and its barely one inch thick. But anyhow, this is exactly the information I was looking for! thanks a lot everyone! I am finished asking questions for now, but if anyone has any usefull tips or anything, please post them Kevin
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At 60K miles I had the dealer check out my rear drum brakes on my 1995 Impreza and they said that they were in "rough" shape. Well, I am at 115,000 now and they kind of grind under hard braking (like when someone cuts me off on the mass pike when traffic is going at 80mph). I think it is safe to say they might need some "freshening" especially since they are original. I can replace front discs/pads by myself but for some reason drums scare the living daylights out of me (probably becuase I can't see into the drum like I can see the disc pad setup). The Chiltons manual totally stinks in this section, and webpages that I have found only tell you how to swap drums to discs. I want to keep my drums thank you very much Is there a good website that documents shoe changing? Can you reline drums or would you just get a new one like you would with a disc rotor? Can anyone scan the service manual PDF's for this procedure? Thanks a lot, take care guys (and gals) Kevin kjyoun01 at hvc.rr.com
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Ok, that is the answer I was hoping you would give so I could give you my opinion If you are taking pressure readings at random samples, this might effect your readings. Assuming you know nothing, I will describe what MIGHT be happening. As you drive friction in your tires is transfered into heat energy. As the air gets heated, it gets excited and tends to "bounce" around more than say, cold air. This excited air in your tires will cause your readings to be higher after driving than it was before it left the driveway after sitting all night. I would suggest you take a reading tomorrow morning (Wednesday) and then another one on Thursday AM, and one more on Friday AM and see if there is a constant decrease in pressure or it remains pretty constant. Good luck Kevin
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Ok I'll bite I was considering one a few years ago, but the general feeling that I got when I asked was that since the struts are so close to the firewall (minimal flex as a result) that the effects of a strut bar on my daily driver would not be noticable unless I was taking it to the track. People still do it and seem to like it though. Kevin
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I have driven my Impreza through snow as deep as the front of the hood with no problems (nice dry snow) however sometimes 6 inches of real wet heavy snow is pushing the limit (especially on muddy and secondary roads that I drive on a lot). It all depends on three things: 1. The moisture content of the snow and the base that is under it. 2. The nut behind the wheel 3. TIRES!!!!!
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Wow is it snowing outside! I'm in the Catskills and we are supposed to get quite a lot of this There are two arrows pointing towards the center of the boot where "PUSH" is written...yes? Grab the sides at the end of each of those arrows, squeeze, and wiggle. That should do it If it doesn't try again when it is warmer! edit: once you get the connector off, you have to take off the rubber boot around the bulb assembly and then you can access the bulb.
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I would first look into getting some new brake fluid in your system, especially if it is 1996 OEM. A low fluid level would cause the light to come on. Also, sometimes when pads and shoes wear they can trigger the light to come on. I guess the worst case is that the Master Cylinder is on its way out? Good luck with it! Kevin
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The B9 fills in the gap between people who don't want a minivan but need something larger than a sedan and don't want to fall into the SUV mindset. Regardless of how you feel about it, it is brilliant in its own twisted way. Subaru people now have the option not to leave the brand. If and when you have kids, you might just appreciate the B9 so don't be so quick to knock it As for the Saabaru, I will be looking for one when I enter the used vehicle market in the near future. You get more owner perks (scheduled maintenance and 4 year warranty), STi bits, a different gearbox, ect, ect...the list goes on. It's a good thing for Subaru. When you get out of highschool, you will appreciate the platform sharing because parts will be easier and cheaper to come by. As a veteran board member, I can remember when this board didn't seem to accept Justy owners with open arms....It's not a Subaru blah blah blah blah it doesn't have a horizontal engine or 4 cylinders blah blah blah blah. Now it seems that everyone wants one. -Kevin
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1999 Outback Sport = Impreza wagon with 2.2L engine and raised suspension/two tone body 1999 Outback = Legacy wagon with 2.5L engine and raised suspension/two tone body As for turbocharging the 2.5l in your Legacy Outback, well....these engines don't respond well to any boost with the stock internals/gasgets. It is cheaper and far more cost effective to buy a engine and tranny from a WRX and start there...($2500 to $3500 depending on mileage). Not to push you away from this forum, but have you ever checked out NASIOC ? While people here have experience with turboing the 2.5l and such, you might find even more useful information there as there are a couple forums that address just what you are asking. Use the search function and you will find what you are most likley looking for. Good luck and welcome Kevin