kevinsUBARU

Hey guys, whats up? I know that it was my MTN biking thread that spured this location/idea, but I will not be able to say yes/no until possibly the last minute. I'm not scared of any USMB people:-p, It's just that I am very unsure of my schedule right now. Take care, Kevin

You should stop by Americas oldest brewery (Yuengling) while you're in Pottsville!

There should be two washer motors attached to the reservoir. I would start there, and then work towards the rear. I hope you find the problem! Kevin

Well, I guess it doesn't hurt to replace everything that is engine cooling related...once you get those new head gaskets you will be all set Good luck!

Welcome! Does your front work? My guess is that you are out of fluid in your main reservoir since I am almost POSITIVE that they are both fed from the same reservoir in your engine bay. Start with checking that fluid level (on the driverside by the battery) and then look for a hose that might not be connected. Kevin

I had put an 18mm on my old Impreza, and believe me, it was so much easier than this! Good tips though, I will remember those if this thing starts making noise Kevin

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=yellow+sand%2A

Tools needed: 14mm wrench 12mm socket socket extension 5mm allen key WD40 or other antisieze grease I installed this while the car was on the ground. I am small, flexible, and extremely patient...your results may vary Locate the endlinks...one on the drivers side and one on the passengers side. Insert a 5mm allen key into the end of the bolt and use the 14mm wrench to take the nut off. This can be a slow process, so stay calm. Picture shows 5mm allen key with 14mm wrench: Next, locate the bushing brackets. There is a bracket on the drivers and passengers side, and there are two (2) 12mm bolts on each one. Take them off. The passengers side upper bolt may be tricky because of clearance issues, so be prepared for that. Now the bar is loose and ready for removal. Lower the passenger side first, then snake the drivers side around the exhaust. Now that it is removed, compare it to your new bar. I installed a 22mm (7/8") sway bar from IPD with the supplied new bushings and brackets. Compare and laugh. Stock 13mm v.s. 22mm: Next, you need to somehow snake that new bar back up into there. Nearly impossible! I put a floor jack under the rear differential and lifted the wagon nearly off the ground so that I could get a better approach angle...it's still tricky but it is doable on the ground. Installation is opposite of removal of stock bar...insert drivers side first then passenger side. Once the bar is in place, grease the bushings (IPD supplies both), slip them over the bar, and then loosely attach the brackets to the stock mounting locations with the stock 12mm bolts (Apply antisieze on the bolt threads): Next, put the endlink bolt through the holes on the bar at both ends. Because of increased thickness, it barely takes any time to tighten the 14mm nuts down. Remember, you need the 5mm key to do this task so the bolt doesn't spin in the endlink. Also remember to tighten the bushing bracket bolts as well. Ahhh...New Bar! This took about 2 hours to do while the car was on the ground. I soaked all bolts in WD40 a few days in advance, which made it a lot easier. The wagon handles so much better than stock with this modification, even on the stock suspension. Enjoy! Kevin

Interesting find on the bike carriers. This is what I am currently using but it is mounted as far to the ends as possible on the factory "feet" (not on the factory crossbars) and using a 50" bar, not the supplied 32. I am also using a fork mount rack...the velo vise to be specific.

Welcome Killjoy, Yes, you could remove the factory bars if you go with the lowrider setup. I am not as familiar with the Yakima lineup, but they basically have identical products as thule, only that they mate to round bars and have different names. Chaka, To further expand on my previous rack post, I re-attached the rack clamps to the actual "factory foot" that holds the crossbars together. I am not talking about the rail, and this will not work unless you reuse your older 50 inch loadbars. I will try to get a picture of the mounting point real soon, but this is 500% sturdier then attaching them to the factory crossbars, and would probably save you from buying the $190 foot pack. Quick question for you or anyone with an 05 OB...is it possible to get a picture of the rail/factory crossbar setup from someone? Take care, Kevin

schweeeeeeet, however, that trunk is WAYYYYYYY too cluttered with various emblems

You have two options. If you have factory crossbars that are already attached to the roof rails, you can get the 532 Ride On Adaptor kit for $39. If you don't have the crossbars but you DO HAVE RAILS, then you will find that the 450 crossroad foot at $192. This foot kit will attach right to the existing rails and you can use a 50 inch loadbar with it. Advantage of the 532: Very easy to install, very cheap. Disadvantage of the 532: Comes with 32" load bars...2 bike capacity Advantage of the 450: Sturdier. Has room for bikes and ski rack Disadvantage of the 450: Almost 3x the price of the 532. When I transfered my Thule from my 1995 Impreza sedan to my 2001 Legacy Wagon, I got the 532 kit, however, I put the 32 inch bars aside and threw my 50 inch ones on. It is sturdy (you don't want to mount the bike rack too far to the outside) and I have my ski rack also that I use to carry shovels and other stuff with. I would imagine that because the 450 crossroad foot pack mounts directly to the roof rails instead of stacking itself up another level like the 532, that it would be even sturdier than my setup. IF you are carrying kayaks or canoes, I would opt for the 450 foot pack (sturdier for heavier loads), but skis and bikes will be fine with the 532. Additionally, Thule and Yakima rack carriers (skis, bikes, ect...) will work on either system...Thule sells Yakima adaptor clamps and vice versa. Kevin

I change my air filter about 3 or so times a year! It gets insanely dirty...I can't believe yours lasted that long:eek:

Jack, Subaru is STILL OWNED by Fuji Heavy Industries, not GM. GM has something like a 20% stake in it, which is not threatening IMO. Juan, I can't quite jive with your thinking, and personally, I think I speak for everyone when I say that. Way overanalyzed that commercial...

I have no experience with them, but I have heard very good things about the Goodyear Assurance tires...check them out (And the tirerack reviews on them) Personally, and I live 30 minutes north of you, I use whatever I have kicking around in the summer, and switch to dedicated snows in the winter. The stock RE92's do well in the snow when they are not very worn, but as the miles rack up they start to get scary. Kevin

what is the problem? cruise control?

Down for the biking, no clue on 4wheelin' Kevin

I found a FAQ from nabisco that was very helpful and it has some additional links at the bottom of the first post...I believe the SPD one is the one I was in search of. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=587096 Kevin

Yep, they are all plug and play.

I knew you people would come around to your senses It is a very good looking vehicle!

Sent you the wrong one first, then sent the right one. If it is still messed up let me know asap!

my unlimited account expires tomorrow...anyone need any favors?

Thanks for your $.02 Kevin

So I have about a year left on the 60,000 powertrain warranty. I do experience clutch shudder quite bad in the morning for the first 4 engagements or such. Is this something that people have had covered under warranty for TSB 03-51-02R ? If yes, at what mileage? Thanks, Kevin

I believe it was first posted on the ezboard version. I know I have seen it on nasioc as well, but I figured I would ask here first. Kevin