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I have 2 vehicles both running just fine with coolant stains in the cylinder walls - my 87 GL(EA82) & my 65 chevy p/u(sbc 350). I was told by my auto machinist that the etching effect of coolant is OK as long as there is no pitting. He told me that even after reboring cast iron blocks stains can still be seen. What matters is the piston to cylinder wall clearance & if high mileage that the piston skirts haven't collapsed. Scuffing up the stain with scotchbrite is OK - honing just to remove the stain is unnecessary. Always put a shop rag on top of piston before cleaning the bore. Have a great day!

'87 GL wagon(same one) Replaced rt inner & outer tie rod ends & bellows. Replaced L&R ball joints. Knocked out ft knuckle brgs, washed & painted knuckles. Checked out ft axles - found my clicking cv(rt side - of course!)

My 87 GL: Last Wednesday - rear diff LSD install, breather line in diff cover, modded hubs for 6 lug, rear disc convert w/SS braided lines, rear 4" SJR lift, Mazda PU wheels w/General 27x8.50x14s. Friday - pulled EA82 engine, took FW in for resurface. Replaced FW seal. Saturday - removed wheels, disc brakes, axles, struts. control arms, fender well plastic, spare tire rod. Installed EA81 washer bottle in engine compartment. Replaced left side inner & outer tie rod ends & boot.

No, didn't get a chance to shoot some pics of the 'operation' when the shop tore down the engine. Stuck around just long enough after setting them up to see one pin pulled - this is a racing engine shop & they're quite busy. Thought I should get out of the way - or they might put me to work.

I was at a friends auto machine shop last week. Some young guy had dropped his ej20t engine off for repair because it had developed a "ticking noise". The engine had been torn down to the short block with nothing apparent to cause the "ticking noise" - until they pulled the oil pan. #4 rod bearing had been destroyed - there were all kinds of metal flakes in the oil filter when they cut it open. So I get asked for a 14mm allen wrench & a piston pin puller for Subaru. Didn't expect that the turbo pins would be so heavy with small through holes like this one. The holes are about 8mm leaving little to grip because of the taper on in insides. Somewhere I seem to remembered reading about using concrete anchors with a slide hammer to pull the pins. Home Depot carries Hilti 5/16" x 3 1/2" anchors with 1/4-20 threaded studs in the center. Body dent slide hammer tool from local auto parts had a 1/4-20 adapter in the package. Had to grind down the head of the center stud to slip freely though the piston pin & thin the expanding shell to get a snug fit inside. Gently tap the modified anchor into the piston pin, grab the anchor shell with pliers, tighten down the 1/4-20 nut until about 1/4" of thread is exposed, screw on the slide hammer & a few light taps pull the piston pin. The piston pins had been hammering the pin clips, raising a ridge inside the piston pin bores. A bag of five 5/16 Hilti anchors - $3.56 w/tax.

Master cylinders will wear a bell shape in the area of highest pressure as the piston moves over time. More so with an aluminum m/c than cast iron m/c. This allows fluid to bleed around the piston diminishing the hydraulic advantage so that it becomes harder to stop. Never rebuild an aluminum m/c, always replace it. Brake hoses skive(pare thin layers) from fluid eroding the rubber lining & weakening the hose over time. Your floaties in the brake fluid are likely bits of rubber, plus worn metal/piston cups from the m/c . Like others have said this allows the hoses to expand reducing the effective braking force. Change all your brake hoses & replace the m/c if it's the original. Overhaul your calipers & wheel cylinders. You need a good seal to get maximum force. Check your rotors & drums for hard, discolored spots too since they've been so hot - glazed surfaces on the linings too. I've been doing auto repair since '72. What good is going fast if you can't stop:eek:

This 87 California SPFI EA82 GL d/r has TWO cats, one at the Y behind the engine & a 2nd cat just behind the trans. It also has the "light truck" category emissions sticker under the hood - a term rendered meaningless by the newest emissions laws here.

Replaced the rear cat converter on my 87 GL 4WD wagon today. It had developed a really annoying rattle in the exhaust, especially when just warming up, that would quiet down when exhaust was hot. Pulled the rear pipe with cat, shook it hard & the biscuit came loose inside. Cheaply made cats just don't last. The biscuit was so loose it turned sideways inside the body. Chopped it out right next to the cat body. Replaced it with a Magnaflow 91004 (same length+width+depth as original but 2" in & out). The 91004 has only one heat shield so I liberated one from the old cat, tack welded that to the new cat. Aligned everything in the exhaust, tacked it together then removed the assembly for final welding. Put assembly back in, checked alignment so nothing hits & cinched down the hardware. Found out later that the Magnaflow 38104 will also work for this application. No more noises like chicken bones in the garbage disposal.

Just ordered some wheel studs from RockAuto. Stock studs for GL were Dorman #610-322 with 22mm heads & 14.27mm knurl, 30.5mm length. From the Dorman catalog it appears you could use the 610-263 that has a smaller 12.83mm knurl & smaller dia. head, 32.5mm length. Can't post attachments but the pdf downloads from Dorman hardware catalog is available online free. http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm Section 10, 161-166.

Replaced the front strut mounts & coil springs on my 87 GL 4WD d/r wagon. The rubber was separating inside the mount causing wheel hop on right side. Found the strut mounts at Kragen A/P(MasterPro brand#FM1096). Good quality item. My front springs were sagging some so I found that 89-92 Nissan Sentra fronts ($15 each at the local pick it yourself)are the same wire diameter, coil OD & 1 3/4 turns more at 14.75-15.00" length. Took some effort to compress them using an ATD universal coil spring tool, but they do just fit. Lots of 'verbal coaxing' on the first one. Lifted the front end about 7/8" too. Edit: donor Nissan Sentras to look for are 4 cyl with the smaller OD front coils. Because these are the same OD to fit the strut well just maybe they would be fine for switching to legacy knuckles on a EA car? The spacing for the strut mount bolts on the knuckles looks to be the same as for legacy awd cars. Just a suggestion.

I know I'm late to the party. Hoping to get a little break on price but if I'm too late..... Interested in EA-EJ adapter plate & 4" EA lift kit. All these for an 87 GL wagon 4WD d/r.

Hey there! Found this site while searching for 87 GL wagon 4WD info. I've had this Subaru since 6/07 & like it well enough to mod it for off-road. Found some Mazda 14x5 6 lug wheels & a '90 Legacy EJ22 engine this week. Will go back to the yard tomorrow for the ECU & wiring harness for the conversion. May opt for 4" lift too. Being in Calif I'll have to make everything smog legal - but wot da heck for more power & torque.