czny

Found out that each door & the sw tailgate have a special loom for power locks & windows. The power window option has its own loom running from rt side of dash back to passenger side front & rear doors & to control/relay/circuit brkr under front passenger seat, then across to drivers side front & rear doors. Will post some pics as I do the upgrade.

Don't know how you feel about safety but when I finally get to my ej swap on my 87 gl definitely going to add a low oil pres switch to the circuit like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230736088050?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Voltage from the ignition switch starter wire while cranking & ignition hot thru the Hobbs switch while running. If the engine stalls & OP goes below 4 psi the FP cuts off.

I've used the SB108s on my 87 gl wagon for 5 yrs. Buy a can of spray silicone & clamp the bottom eye mount in a vise. Apply a generous amount of twisting force to slide the snubber onto the rod. Likewise getting the dust boot onto the snubber.

Great news again. Now, the only question remaining to be answered is: are the connectors for the control unit(under the passenger seat) & the relay + circuit brkr(under the drivers seat) normally incorporated into an '87 gl 4wd wiring loom? I've checked the 87 FSM & don't see any dotted lines for power windows & locks to suggest an optional loom, so the connectors may be there. Felt around under the seats but couldn't feel them through the carpet. Anyone know for certain? Edit: Pulled out passenger seat & looked thru vent hole in carpet. No connector there. Pulled up strip next to door. Unused 6 pin connector closest to rear seat anchor. It's 105*F & 90% humiditity right now. Tomorrow.

Thanks! Right now there's an 86 with power windows & locks. Cheaper to buy the whole doors at the PAP & get the added benefits of sheet metal & glass to boot.:cool:

Asking for a show of hands of those in PNW/northern states/Canada whose '80s Subie has power windows & locks to see how durable they are in winter. Would this be a viable upgrade or stick with manual windows & locks? Only asking because sometimes things do get wet & freeze. Thanks!

Found rear trailing arms from 86 turbo gl-10 complete with stubs, hubs, axles & disc brakes. Spare parts for when the well dries up. Hadn't seen a 4wd turbo in 4+ yrs here.

"CZNY may be helping me make one, once he gets settled down in Oregon." It will take time to move all my machinery, tools, vehicles, parts & household. I'd like to leave this area today, but there is a lot to do.

Shouldn't need to upgrade the alloy - Spartan lockers are case-hardened 9310 alloy steel. If there's a steel supplier nearby maybe they'd have an end cut from a 9310 round bar stock in the scrap bin. You'd be surprised how much alloy steel goes to scrap at metal suppliers. Edit: here's onlinemetals.com for 9310 3" round stock. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=20033&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1&top_cat=0 I love their disclaimer: "At OnlineMetals, we all failed shop class. Multiple times. As a matter of fact, our employment applications specifically ask to see people's grades for their high school shop classes. If they're too high, they go into the rejected pile. We're also not engineers, and cannot make any specific recommendations about the suitability of a given alloy, temper, or shape for your project or application. All technical data is for comparison purposes only and is NOT FOR DESIGN. It has been compiled from sources we believe to be accurate but cannot guarantee. This ends the part of the website that our pointy-headed lawyers made us put in. " If you can find good remnant steel rounds at a machinists supplier or metals supplier so much the better.

Definitely interested in one. Weighing the costs of rebuilding a r160 plate lsd against buying the locker, I think I'd rather buy the locker.

Do your folks know an attorney? Maybe get a referral through the attorney for patent help.

Very nice work! Let the chips fly!

Precisely. It is an auot-unlocker. I ran a Lock-Right for 16 yrs in my old Chevy PU. Now running a Spartan which is stronger. These have their driving quirks when things get loose on wet pavement, but they're fine for light offroading(in a heavier vehicle).

The heater blower not working in 1 & 2 could be the blower fan resistor in the fan housing behind the glovebox. My 87 gl had the same problem with vent/heat/defrost. Turned out to be the black plastic had cracked where it mounts to the switch/control body with screws. Bought one from a fleabay seller in S. Dakota - it was fubar too:mad: Direct sun is brutal on these plastic parts. Finally found a good one at the local PAP. Replaced that & the resistor then everything worked correctly. Just remember to mark the hoses on the back &/or do them one at a time.

I was combing the local PAP today & noticed Nissan Maxima rear calipers look similar to the 200SX ones. Checked rockauto for years & rear brake parts - 200SX have 30mm bores while 90-94 Maxima(3.0L V6) have 34mm bores. Same parking brake cable brackets & levers. Didn't check the pin spacing while there.

Lookin' good there! Did you copy the dimensions for the side gear splines(length of splines & chamfers), undercut(?) corner radius on the outside, etc from the R160 in this rendering? It may be possible to use the old 'nut buttons' from the R160 for the stubs(?) Good job!

Vacuum leaks? If your brake booster hose check valve isn't seating that could be one source. The check valve is just above the crimped band on the booster hose. Or the booster itself, maybe.

You are welcome. I really want to see you succeed. They're more than a few that want to see you succeed. And then there's.....do we really have to say.:-p

The center gap is at minimum .015-.020" with the clutches disengaged on both sides. That's another way to look at it. prwa: "Now on another note. Should I be worried about someone stealing this idea? Since I'm putting up photos and things?" Just don't show your hand while playing poker. "Keep it close to the vest.":)

You know the assembled gap between the center chunks only has to be 2x the depth of the clutch teeth + say .015-.020" for lubrication/safety. If that helps gain you some needed space then good. After all, you're designing the prototype & changes can be made as needed later. If it was me I'd use something like 4142 or 4340 steel unhardened for the first one, run it, tear it down & inspect for problems. Can always go for tougher, easy to machine steel alloys afterward. Chop, cut & rehash.

The nuts for the splined stubs have to be clear of the cross-pin so they can rotate freely with the outer clutches. Cylindrical with a obtuse tapered end to mate with tapered reliefs inside the outer pieces using friction would be an easy way. :DJust a suggestion. Wait until it comes time to build the tooling for this project!

Yes, those are what I was referring to. The bores for pins are cross-drilled thru the outside of the clutch center body. One to use a wire to hold the load pins in for assembly, drilled in line with the groove in the pin with the pin fully compressed flush with the face. Another hole from the outside for lubrication near the bottom of the pin bore. The hollow thru the middle of the "center chunk" was for a cup shaped c-clip retainer for the c-clip on chevy PU axles. Not needed for an R160. The wide groove in the clutch face of the "center chunk" isn't needed for the R160 either. That was to permit loading the c-clip into the groove on the axles with all the pieces inside the carrier. You could run clutch teeth all the way around for the R160. More clutch engagement = more strength.

Question #2: enco.com. Use their 'find it' search for tools, etc. Very easy. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=891-4976&PMPXNO=3904809 They ship quickly.

Found the Dorman(Motormite) equivalent washers: 618-066. They're thicker than stock. Bought mine from RockAuto.

I've used these & like the quality, plus you buy replacement keys direct from factory: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-71923/?rtype=10