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Looked at my 99 ej25d block & saw similar numbers. Having been a maintenance mechanic for a die casting shop, these appear to me to be the plates they insert into the die molds to ID the production run & mold used.

Uberoo, What did you do for an intermediate shaft between the d/r 5mt trans & the Nissan 720 t-case? For the 720 t-case I have all 3 shafts(inter, ft & rr) from an '84 720 PU plus the t-case. Plus more.

Good then. More info can't hurt us.... Edit: Did copy down the VIN,etc when I pulled my donor block. VIN does correlate OK. 4s3bg6855X66.... Eng type: EJ25DAWEYL

Sorry for this highjack but maybe this could be useful for others.... I have a 99 Lego OB EJ25 short block here with an "X" as the tenth digit. It was a DOHC & is 8 bolt bell-housing pattern. Don't know the mileage as the donor odometer was missing when I pulled it. Guess I'll find out the rod journal size when torn down for brgs/rings. Were there any other variations to this tenth digit "W" designation? Edit: xbeerd posted his "X" just as this post was being typed.:cool:

Thanks!! The brake lines are already covered - wrapped with vinyl tape & then electrical loom spiral nylon to boot. See posts 9 & 10. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

Thanks!! I just picked out one based on original Tempo spring ID, wire size, etc from here: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Coil_Springs.asp Plus lots of reading about what others had chosen(cc852, cc854). The Grabber 27x8.50x14s rolling radius on 14x6 Mazda truck whls are actually 12.5" from pavement to centerline of axle. So yes, the dia could be described as 25".

See post 25 here: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136259&page=3

After driving with straight wound Tempo springs for awhile decided I'd had enough of bouncing at every bump in the road, bump steering, etc. Bought some MOOG cc856 springs & swapped them out on the last day of last year. Cut them to 13 inches overall length, reinstalled with the Tempo top spring perches(described earlier). Put original length strut rods in & adj toe-in to 1/16". May try more or less toe to test for best handling soon. First pic shows cc856 uncut, cc856 cut to 13" & Tempo spring cut to 13". .......................................................................... Rides much nicer with less wheel hop, etc & much more controllable. Mounted Mazda wheels again to get some better mileage around town(smaller rolling radius tires).

No, the hubs are steel. Steel will ring if you strike it & cast iron won't. I also have welded up around the new holes for buildup using only .030 ER70S MIG wire with 75/25 gas & they've never cracked nor failed. As with any welding, surface prep is mandatory before welding. Grind/sand/machine a clean surface first.

EGR light coming on during warmup while driving. Goes out after fully warm. Mileage is bad too. Code 24: coolant temp sensor. Ordered new one today from RA. Std Motor Prod #AX11, $20.

I could hear brg noises & there were more than one source. Plus the pre-heat tube on the front cat had broken welds making the heat shield rattle. I'll keep my covers on - too many vandals around here. Yes they would crawl under to cut the belts. Today: Replaced both front axles, front strut springs with new MOOG CC856 progressive Tempo ones. Cut bottom 1 2/3 turns for OAL of 13". Put stock length radius rods back in. Reset toe-in to 1/16". Rides much better than straight wound Tempo springs. No more choppy bouncing, pitching the nose of the car around. Ride height is the same. Now my low back won't ache so

Replaced water pump & timing belts, idlers on my EA82 87 GL wagon. WP was weeping coolant from bottom hole & shaft brg was noisy. Used a mechanics stethoscope to locate noises. Found d/s DOJ boot torn too. Tomorrow.

Agreed. Some kind of dynamic of tire slip in climbing, cornering, etc. & these ratios being a happy medium. Without a biased center diff its a compromise, but a good one.

So then the gen1 Brats have front to rear ratio of 0.997. A 280zx R200 3.90 front & M30 R200 3.917 rear gives a ratio of 0.996. Close enough.

That slight ratio difference amounts to a diameter change of 0.10" for a 28" dia tire. That's the thickness of a nickle! Bouncing down a paved road you'd encounter more deflection than that. A lot of the Nissan cv axles seem to share the same parts. 300zx axles slip into the M30 diff & vice versa. M30 inners are 6 ball cvs. 300zx inners are trunnions. Maxima may share some common parts too from what I've seen at the yards. Haven't dissected my pair of 720 axles yet, and I've got both 300zx & M30 axles to compare alongside those.

What ratio R200 are you looking for? Presumably you want the longnose R200? 81-84 280zx 2+2 5MT runs 3.90 90-92 Infinity M30 runs 3.916(47-12) on a 4 pinion open carrier. 4.11 R200s are out there but harder to come by. Check the hybridz forum for donor cars/years.

Sent an email to my sister in Seattle to keep an eye out for this car. Stealing a man's livelihood in tools is lower than whale 'poop'. As a mechanic I feel for you. Twice I've had scumbags raid my rollaways for everything at work. Had someone try to steal my lifted GL wagon from right out front of my own house 2 mo.s ago. Glass breakage sensor thwarted them.

Yes, Isuzus do use the same 6x5.5" pattern. So do the 83-85 Nissan 720 PUs. The cv shafts on these are much thicker. Looking into hybrid Nissan/Subaru hubs for locking fronts, Nissan stubs for rear. Edit: Because these lockers work so well, I for one would really like to see some made for the R160 diff. Maybe even one for the 3.90 R200 like in 83-85 Nissan 280zx diffs for offroading with IFS/IRS suspension. Keep the good work prwa101!

Being that these are essentially mechanical clutches with teeth like gears, they need to have a tough core. Alloy steels for these lockers are 9310 & 8620, which are then case hardened. I'm still working toward getting my overcrowded garage into some sort of order so as to help make a prototype or two. I have all the essential machinery & tools: horizontal & vertical bandsaws, drill press,bench lathe, horizontal/vertical mill, super spacer, tool & cutter grinder, small heat treat furnace & even a hardness tester. And surface plate for checking. What I don't have is the working phase converter to power some of these machines. And space to do the layout work. At least not yet.

82-84 Nissan 280ZX lugs: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32725-611-241.aspx Would your Toy mags accept 19mm lugs? Found 11 of them on an 82 280zx today. PM your mailing address if you want them.

Nissan uses 12-1.25mm whl studs. Here's a Dorman mag nut for 91 Pathfinder: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-12272-711-408.aspx Not sure of the shank dia or length, but 13/16" hex.

4 1/2" angle grinder. Shorted out throwing sparks after first 15 min use. Was only using a cutoff wheel when this happened! http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-91223.html Got a full refund right away.

I've torched out both front & rear control arm bushings using an oxyacetylene cutting head. Just turn up the oxy a little higher after setting up the mixture to burn out the rubber. Apply heat to the rubber & center only. As the rubber is burning it expands, pushing out the metal sleeve. Clean up the remainder with a wire wheel & cup brush.

You're welcome!!

PM sent for front & rear EA82 bumpers.