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czny
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Everything posted by czny
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Only suggestion I'd make is either shave some of the foam around the rectangular hole, or, make a small block of wood the size of the plastic bezel & compress the vinyl so the bezel fits better. Had a time getting the bezels in place on my 87 GL after the upper panels were redone. Caused the electric door locks to hang up a little too because the bezels were in the way of the rods. Too much foam behind the vinyl. Just a suggestion.
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Here's a simple test(c/p) for clogged exhaust system courtesy of(& to) Shawn: ShawnW Posted 10 September 2005 - 11:50 AM You can put a vac gauge on the engine to verify clogged exhaust. 1. Put the gauge on an intake manifold vac source. 2. Allow engine to reach full operating temp. (fans cycle on/off) 3. From idle (700-850 RPM) rev up engine to 2000 RPM. (Vac level on gauge should remain the same) 4. Quickly release throttle and watch gauge. Reading should slowly rise then smoothly return to normal reading you were getting at idle. If it rises or does not quickly return to normal the exhaust is likely restricted. This can be the cat or the muffler even if the muffler is clogged with cat material from a previous cat failure. 5. Disconnect exhaust and test if car fails test.
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"but to comment on the info: I believe my rear cat is failing too, that or the guard is rattling as many have said on here that is the more probable case. Thing is, I had my car up on a lift and my mechanic buddy gave it some knocks and said it sounds like the mesh is caking and crumbling if that makes sense." Had a rear cat come apart inside. The biscuit was turning around inside & rattling like h3ll. Never buy Eastern Cat products. Poorly made.
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Rather than replace the front cat I added a galvanized sheet metal heat shield to the cross member on P/S. Just big enough to protect the DOJ boot. A band aid until I do my EJ swap. But the rear cat failed first. Cat temps should be higher at the rear of the cats. If the cats run hotter at the entrance, they are failing.
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I'm going thru much the same thing. 87 GL 4wd front & rear cats are failing. Last year had P/S intake gasket start leaking both into the intake & on top of the block. Replaced the leaking gaskets & some hoses. Months later now the CEL comes on just before everything is fully warm at cruising speeds on the fwy. Then goes out later. No codes while running. Tried everything else. If you can borrow an infrared temp gun you could check the cat(s) for failure. Or a vacuum gauge test. Search the old threads here. Watch this: Read here starting post 21: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87359-loyale-lacking-power/?hl=%2Bplugged+%2Bcats&do=findComment&comment=739770 Edit: Could be too rich. Like carb float level is too high causing percolation. Or choke stuck on. Excess fuel can cause converter meltdown. Some late 70's domestic vehicles used to catch the interior carpet on fire when running rich.
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Here ya go, Chevy Vega oil pressure switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-PS64-Oil-Pressure-Sender-or-Switch-For-Light-/141086607398?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChevrolet|Model%3AVega&hash=item20d96ac826&vxp=mtr There's also these Hobbs switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-3-New-Hobbs-Pressure-Switches-76575-4-also-Replaces-M4006-4-Switch-/230736088050?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item35b8f14bf2
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As it is now with stock rate springs, 3" cross member lift & the 4" strut lift, the camber is about 1* positive. With just a little toe-out(.18" or 4.6mm). If done over I would cut up 2 pair of lower arms, overlap an extra length of inner section to make them length needed. Rosette weld the pieces together & add gussets. Then fine tune with the Miata camber bolts.
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I drilled the cross member on my 87 wagon, posts 5, 6 & 11 relate to this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131364-87-gl-4wd-wagon-czny/ Credit to the originator of the bushing idea. Can't recall the member. I had thought to use Mazda Miata rear camber bolts & mod the cross member for camber adjustment. The tricky part would be getting the eccentric on line with the lower arm & picking a effective center for the eccentric adjuster. I don't know if this could get you your 10mm.
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Could be the tiny bypass hose from block to t-stat housing, or the steel tube in the block rotted out. Or, P/S intake gasket leaking. If its leaking outside then could be leaking into the intake too.
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Does this "beeping" sound like a chime? Does it start only with the door open and the key removed? Could then be the cylinder key switch. Two wire connector above the ECU access panel. Just unplug it. The switch in my 87 wouldn't reset every time so I just disconnected it. And I also have two vehicles with the Sony stereos that "beep" after turning off the ignition.
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Jumped on this one while on sale, that & it was the last one: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649 Description does say the template is fiberglass. And in this one description says fiberglass snorkel:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Pajero-Montero-Shogun-L047-049-82-91-SNORKEL-WORLDWIDE-SHIPPING-/281214458879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4179b01bff I'll find out when it gets here.
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Why not take advantage of a locking converter: locked for highway use & unlocked for crawling. A simple vane pump for circulating ATF, a 12V solenoid directional valve & route the oil through the oil cooler in the radiator to maintain temperatures. Cold ATF is not a good thing in a TC.
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Gloyale, are you ordering for yourself from there? I contacted my friend Mike Johnson(JMS) about placing an order with Cometic for the H1631SPK051S & he said that Cometic doesn't really give a break on low volume orders, that he knows of. He has ordered directly from Cometic in the past & would be willing to try a larger order if we got enough people together for this gasket. What do you say?
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Funny, the custom Cometic page doesn't list .056" as an available thickness: http://www.cometic.com/custom-gaskets.aspx .051" would be fine though. If they're pricey I'm thinking we could try for a group buy(?) of H1631SPK051S in pairs. I'm friendly with an auto machine shop down here, JMS(Johnson Machine Service). No promises but may have a connection through his shop.
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Dorman #610-322, M12-1.25 x 30.5mm are stock dimension studs. 21 mm head, 14.3mm knurl & 30.5 from head to shank end. These are what I used for my 6 lug conversion. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268478,parttype,7680 Here's the Dorman catalog: http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=parttype&year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&parttype=Wheel%20Stud%2FBolt
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use-enco.com for M11-1.25 tap: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=891-4976&PMPXNO=3904809
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Yeah, I realized that after posting. There have been fewer & fewer GLs, no RXs since about 5 yrs ago down here at the local PAP. I'll watch for a turbo when I go there if that helps. Check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141509-new-junk-yard-found/
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Had to resort to buying a new one last year: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268513,parttype,6072 Pricey! Hadn't found a good condition IAC at the PAPs in months & believe me I'd tried a few used ones. Had to meet emissions for Peoples Rebublic of California & mine wouldn't idle steady either. edit: sorry, re-read your post. RX model.
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