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czny

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Everything posted by czny

  1. czny
    Rather than replace the front cat I added a galvanized sheet metal heat shield to the cross member on P/S. Just big enough to protect the DOJ boot. A band aid until I do my EJ swap. But the rear cat failed first. Cat temps should be higher at the rear of the cats. If the cats run hotter at the entrance, they are failing.
  2. czny
    I'm going thru much the same thing. 87 GL 4wd front & rear cats are failing. Last year had P/S intake gasket start leaking both into the intake & on top of the block. Replaced the leaking gaskets & some hoses. Months later now the CEL comes on just before everything is fully warm at cruising speeds on the fwy. Then goes out later. No codes while running. Tried everything else. If you can borrow an infrared temp gun you could check the cat(s) for failure. Or a vacuum gauge test. Search the old threads here. Watch this: Read here starting post 21: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87359-loyale-lacking-power/?hl=%2Bplugged+%2Bcats&do=findComment&comment=739770 Edit: Could be too rich. Like carb float level is too high causing percolation. Or choke stuck on. Excess fuel can cause converter meltdown. Some late 70's domestic vehicles used to catch the interior carpet on fire when running rich.
  3. czny
    Here ya go, Chevy Vega oil pressure switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-PS64-Oil-Pressure-Sender-or-Switch-For-Light-/141086607398?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChevrolet|Model%3AVega&hash=item20d96ac826&vxp=mtr There's also these Hobbs switches: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Three-3-New-Hobbs-Pressure-Switches-76575-4-also-Replaces-M4006-4-Switch-/230736088050?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item35b8f14bf2
  4. czny
    As it is now with stock rate springs, 3" cross member lift & the 4" strut lift, the camber is about 1* positive. With just a little toe-out(.18" or 4.6mm). If done over I would cut up 2 pair of lower arms, overlap an extra length of inner section to make them length needed. Rosette weld the pieces together & add gussets. Then fine tune with the Miata camber bolts.
  5. czny
    I drilled the cross member on my 87 wagon, posts 5, 6 & 11 relate to this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131364-87-gl-4wd-wagon-czny/ Credit to the originator of the bushing idea. Can't recall the member. I had thought to use Mazda Miata rear camber bolts & mod the cross member for camber adjustment. The tricky part would be getting the eccentric on line with the lower arm & picking a effective center for the eccentric adjuster. I don't know if this could get you your 10mm.
  6. czny
    Could be the tiny bypass hose from block to t-stat housing, or the steel tube in the block rotted out. Or, P/S intake gasket leaking. If its leaking outside then could be leaking into the intake too.
  7. czny
    Does this "beeping" sound like a chime? Does it start only with the door open and the key removed? Could then be the cylinder key switch. Two wire connector above the ECU access panel. Just unplug it. The switch in my 87 wouldn't reset every time so I just disconnected it. And I also have two vehicles with the Sony stereos that "beep" after turning off the ignition.
  8. czny
    Just ordered a set for my '87 wagon. Thanks Gloyale for posting. Will return to lifted height & comfort of stock rate springs. My kidneys thank you!
  9. czny
    Have you ever done business with a Malaysian before? I did a few years ago. Sold some Corsair memory sticks on fleabay. Only bidder was this guy who worked as tech for the main television broadcaster. Lost a few dollars in shipping due to "language differences" on that one.
  10. czny
    Other snorkel descriptions by this vendor say FRP.
  11. czny
    Jumped on this one while on sale, that & it was the last one: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1423.l2649 Description does say the template is fiberglass. And in this one description says fiberglass snorkel:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Pajero-Montero-Shogun-L047-049-82-91-SNORKEL-WORLDWIDE-SHIPPING-/281214458879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4179b01bff I'll find out when it gets here.
  12. czny
    Why not take advantage of a locking converter: locked for highway use & unlocked for crawling. A simple vane pump for circulating ATF, a 12V solenoid directional valve & route the oil through the oil cooler in the radiator to maintain temperatures. Cold ATF is not a good thing in a TC.
  13. czny
    Likewise for my frankenmotor build time frame. 3 other projects in progress now here. Least this will give some others time to speak up if interested.
  14. czny
    Gloyale, are you ordering for yourself from there? I contacted my friend Mike Johnson(JMS) about placing an order with Cometic for the H1631SPK051S & he said that Cometic doesn't really give a break on low volume orders, that he knows of. He has ordered directly from Cometic in the past & would be willing to try a larger order if we got enough people together for this gasket. What do you say?
  15. czny
    Funny, the custom Cometic page doesn't list .056" as an available thickness: http://www.cometic.com/custom-gaskets.aspx .051" would be fine though. If they're pricey I'm thinking we could try for a group buy(?) of H1631SPK051S in pairs. I'm friendly with an auto machine shop down here, JMS(Johnson Machine Service). No promises but may have a connection through his shop.
  16. czny
    After doing more searching found this: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14956 More reading elsewhere revealed the H1631SPK gaskets can be ordered from Cometic in .056" thickness.
  17. czny
    You're welcome.
  18. czny
    Dorman #610-322, M12-1.25 x 30.5mm are stock dimension studs. 21 mm head, 14.3mm knurl & 30.5 from head to shank end. These are what I used for my 6 lug conversion. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268478,parttype,7680 Here's the Dorman catalog: http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=parttype&year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&parttype=Wheel%20Stud%2FBolt
  19. czny
    use-enco.com for M11-1.25 tap: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=891-4976&PMPXNO=3904809
  20. czny
    For ej25d & ej251block, 100mm bore x .051" thick, right? I come up with C-4264-051. Let me know if that fits the bill because I'll need a pair for my project soon.
  21. czny
    Yeah, I realized that after posting. There have been fewer & fewer GLs, no RXs since about 5 yrs ago down here at the local PAP. I'll watch for a turbo when I go there if that helps. Check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141509-new-junk-yard-found/
  22. czny
    Had to resort to buying a new one last year: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268513,parttype,6072 Pricey! Hadn't found a good condition IAC at the PAPs in months & believe me I'd tried a few used ones. Had to meet emissions for Peoples Rebublic of California & mine wouldn't idle steady either. edit: sorry, re-read your post. RX model.
  23. czny
    Ah, I get it...the center is a trunion joint. Correct?
  24. czny
    How many degrees of motion do you have in that driveshaft center joint & what vehicle was the donor?
  25. czny
    "They leave the bolt out because it's so F$#$in hard to get at behind the oil cooler. doesn't make it good practice, and I've seen the bad results of that too." That's why VW replaced the hex heads with "D" head bolts for the uppers. Later cases had a little boss to keep them from turning. Add some dum-dum putty to the heads of the bolts so they don't move. Easy. Overengineering may cost a little more time, but saves so much in failure & frustration. ;D
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