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czny

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Everything posted by czny

  1. czny
    35/64" bit works for stock studs. Makes for a good press fit. No black magic to it really......
  2. czny
    Someone else will have to chime in here. I do not have parts catalogs for any Subaru models. Sorry.
  3. czny
    Karhu, This seller ships worldwide. Try contacting him through Ebay to see what he has to offer. Please.
  4. czny
    Not Subaru but here's some reading material for anyone helping Subarule: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45126.0 My arms aren't long enough.
  5. czny
    You're a clever guy - those Chinese gauges are crap. If it was me I would have made a 'T' fitting to go in the block for idiot light switch & mechanical gauge tap. Mount a panel with a 270* sweep oil pres gauge & an idiot light in place of the clock.
  6. czny
    A'. Who needs a wheel to torque the axle nut? Put on two lug nuts one stud apart & lock the hub against the ground with a long bar riding on the nuts. B'. Thumbs up. C'. You're welcome!
  7. czny
    A. Where's the cotter pin? B. Re-torque your lug nuts a few times after driving because the studs will move slightly until fully seated & square to the hub. C. Yeah!
  8. czny
    Hope you had all disconnected lines plugged to keep water & dust out. If an end was exposed to rain & road dust long enough it would get in the system. Otherwise go get a can of flush & clean out the lines, evaporator & condenser. The evaporator would require pulling the dash apart from below.
  9. czny
    The included Nuance software allows you to export scans in .jpg, .tif, .png as well as .pdf Gloyale.
  10. czny
    Sure. I'll have to move the digidash project - working in direct sun is just not much fun. When I get it set up again I'll shoot some more pics & post.
  11. czny
    Karhu was just here today....if he's sincere I wish he'd speak up.
  12. czny
    If everything else for that 88 GL-10 digidash is there, he might be interested. Karhu is not a frequent visitor to USMB from what I've seen.
  13. czny
    Orange digidash in 85-86 & green digidash 87 - up to 89(?) Karhu has some Subarus which he'd like to convert to digidashes. He's also wanting the fuel senders & other parts for these. In order to make the conversion complete he needs ALL the digidash accessories including instrument cluster harness, trip computers, outside temp senders, etc. The one in these pics was being tested for one of his cars. I'm repairing a 86 GL-10 digidash instrument cluster harness for this same cluster. When done, the whole set of parts are being shipped through a broker in Los Angeles to Finland. I will not be involved with the US customs aspect of it. Don't want to either. Once delivered to the broker, I'm done with it.
  14. czny
    HF Tools has both walnut & soda for blasting now. And the small bottles, but replace the cheezy hand valve with a deadman, which they also sell, very conveniently. Ummm, nevermind the deadman. Read the reviews on HF. No so good. Handheld spotblaster looks promising for detail work.
  15. czny
    Yeah, found them last week looking for GM TBI injector connectors. Are you going to blast the sill pocket, or ??? A small blasting bottle with crushed walnut shell would clean that up. Put tarps all around.Wear eye protection & a cap. Or a cheap hood.
  16. czny
    Karhu, I have searched & there are just no 85-86 gl-10 wagons in this area for donors. Here's a listing on Ebay that might be the one, but I can't & won't guarantee it for the seller, or buyer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-85111GA145-GENUINE-OEM-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-FUEL-GAUGE-SENDING-UNIT-/181117077947?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1986|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3AGL-10&hash=item2a2b6b49bb&vxp=mtr
  17. czny
    IIRC, normal R12 pressures (low/high) about 20/150-180 @ 85*F. With a correct charge that is.
  18. czny
    Rule of thumb when testing high/low side pressures & charging is to raise engine RPM to 1500-1800. Block the airflow to the condenser & see if the high side pressure rises. Remove block & let system stabilize. Your pressures are too low. Read this, it may help: http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsSection/Documents/Troubleshooting%20guide.pdf
  19. czny
    And there are some here that will advise to use Enviro-Safe refrigerants: http://www.es-refrigerants.com/resources/faq/w/id/14/default.asp I may try this stuff out myself because the hfc134 just doesn't get cold enough.
  20. czny
    From my experience converting my 73 chevy 4x4 to HFC134 last year, you need to find a cross-flow condenser to replace the old R12 end-to-end flow unit in your car. You might find a 94 & up foreign car condenser & hard lines at the salvage yard to fit your front end. Take along a tape measure & dimensions of your system. Lines can be made custom for the change at a radiator-A/C service shop. Definitely replace the filter-dryer. Maybe replace the expansion valve. Definitely flush out the evaporator with a power flush such as some auto parts stores sell. The oil in the compressor will have to be flushed out & replaced with ester oil, some available with UV dye. You need to get as much of the old oils out of the system as possible - it can come back to bite you. A quick search found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139525-r12-to-r124a/
  21. czny
    "When I have to service the rear brakes again, I'll really try for rear discs. It's just yeah, I've been looking for a year. I never see turbos in the junkyard, and when I do, I don't have the money for 'em. Or someone had pulled the rear discs already. And buying rear discs from someone else is hard to find, and they usually ask a much higher selling price than I can afford." LKQs prices at the salvage yards are going up again. Just wait and see. Ever since the old man (owner) passed away the corporate office has been seeking more ways to clean out their patrons wallets. Tax on admission. BS environ-"mental" fees. Ad nauseum. End of rant.
  22. czny
    You're welcome. I tried the manual swap & the brakes were better. But not near as good as the rear disc swap!
  23. czny
    Yeah, those are the auto adjusting brakes. I have the manual adjuster backing plates & hardware here you can have free just for the shipping(before I throw them out.) The wheel cylinders look good - no corrosion. Plus another pair of whl cylinders. PM if interested.
  24. czny
    Cut a cross in the top of the bolt head with a 3" cutoff wheel in the die grinder, then break the head off with a BFH & chisel.
  25. czny
    Looks great John! Guess I missed it, but are you going with a light blue colored dash too? Edit: now I see. Black, gray & blue color scheme. NICE!
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