czny

Sure it isn't an exhaust leak? Get a piece of heater hose or garden hose & use it as a stethoscope to listen with. If internal, a long large screwdriver with the handle pressed to your ear helps. Touch the blade to cylinder head, exhaust flange, etc to pinpoint the noise.

Decided to go for aftermarket Wildwood 260-8419 proportioning valves - 2 of them to keep the divided brake system( Frt left & Rt rear + Frt right & Lft rear) Bought some Edelmann fittings: 4 ea inline tube conns, # 274000(10 x 1.0 mm Invert flare): 4 ea 3/16 invert flare x 1/8 NPTM 90* elbows,#122320: 4 ea 3/16 tube nuts, parts tore only had the long 3/8-24 nuts, # 121030, 1 ea 3/16" x 51" L metric line with 10 x 1.0 mm nuts. Removed orig prop valve & replaced with 2 tube unions, 3/16 tube clamps. Replumbed DS & PS brake tubing from firewall unions & added Wildwood prop valves on top where space saver spare used to reside. Brake line from top of hill holder was removed & replaced with new line to prop valve. See diagonal line in front of booster. Yes, some here disagree with using pipe threads in a braking system, but if you use a high pres sealant such as Leak Lock it will be fine. I've used this stuff for years for steam, hi pres hydraulic & other demanding applications & it will be fine. These Wildwood valves are 1/8 NPTF in & out ports. There are metric valves available but these are EU bubble flare only. Test drove wagon after bleeding with initial valve adj at 4 turns in. Gave both valves one turn more & will see if more is needed. But for now the braking is back where it began after the rear disc conversion.

Hadn't done much with this wagon for some time. Drove down to Tucson AZ (7 1/2 hrs) to visit my sister on Cinco de Mayo weekend. What a traffic disaster on a Friday at evening rush hour on the 5th! PS inner CV boot had a small tear in it, throwing grease everywhere on the trip there. Cleaned up mess then gooped some red silicone on hole for trip home. It held long enough to make it home. One week later the CEL comes on while cruising at 2500-3300 Rs full hot & then goes out(!??!) CEL codes 11, 13, 24 & 33. Checked distrib - OK. Ck'd & cleaned IAC - OK. Ck'd speedo reed switch at low speed - OK. Ck'd all harness connections for loose wire crimps - good. Ck'd DS engine connectors - good. Ck'd ECM conns under dash - some bad crimps & dirty ECM pins. Reset ECM to clear codes. No more CEL! Next to foul up was the brakes. Brake light came on telling me fluid was low, but why. Found rear brake proportioning valve in back underneath had been leaking. Knew braking wasn't near as good as 4 whl disc should be. Notice stain on crosstube - must've been an emergency hard stop that burst the seals. Now how to fix with no compatible Subies left at local PNP(?)

IIRC, some one on this board "talked well" of Fenco axles long ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fenco-CV2531-reman-CV-Axle-Assembly-85-94-Subaru-GSP-Powerline-CV66011-/291618631556?fits=Year%3A1989%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL%7CSubmodel%3ATurbo%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.8L&hash=item43e5d32f84:g:~t4AAOSwXeJXfWp8&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Edit: also made in China.....oooppss!

It's really not that complicated. Looking for a short between circuits or to ground directly you move the meter along the harness until the meter stops. Putting the flasher/lamp assembly in the powered circuit allows you to see the meter swing when the circuit makes & breaks. Its figuring which circuit wiring to open up for the flasher/lamp. Having worked with old British & American wiring when the insulation becomes faulty causing shorts is where I learned this trick. Included some diagrams to help you grossgary. Here's a vintage meter for you........http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Vintag-Sears-Starter-Current-DC-Amperes-Meter-Guage-Nice-Condition-Original-/152213203453?hash=item23709d29fd:g:ugAAAOSwIgNXuQeE&vxp=mtr Here's the new version of that tester: http://www.gearwrench.com/auto-specialty/battery-ignition-electrical/gearwrench-2524d-short-circuit-detector.html Alternate product: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-25300-Circuit-Detector/dp/B000RFOP1I/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk/161-9069080-3861028 Short tester.pdf

If its a short in the circuit buried in a taped loom an ammeter like this together with a signal flasher & small lamp in series works for finding the short between wires. The meter needle will stop swinging back & forth when you've passed the short in the wire pair. Interrupt the circuit between the control switch(reverse light switch for instance) with the flasher relay/lamp then move the ammeter along the harness until you find the short. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321985103947?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Helps diagnose a failing starter too.

If you wait for the discounts you could get that 20 ton for $160 & use the difference toward some nice press plates like from SWAG offroad: http://www.swagoffroad.com/ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES_p_7.html Those arbor plates supplied with HF presses just aren't what I would call safe at any speed. And for fabbing brackets & skid plates: http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Press-Brake-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_40.html

Here's your hood ornament: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Texas-Bull-Horn-Truck-Hood-Ornament-Bullhorn/121093244190?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D34883%26meid%3De540d2a68dae465fa54f7684d832b86a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D121817739034 Just add some chrome airhorns to the roof & call it done.

Scott, I RE-read your post. Seems you already have everything you need.

They sold you turbo axles. Return them for the correct ones. If reman they should have 3 bands in the outer end next to the CV boot & 23 splines in the female inner end. Read...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73071-ed-rachs-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/

Had an issue with my 87 spfi bogging about 6 months ago. No codes at all. Went from slight to cutting out under any load but would rev freely in neutral. Got so bad that I had to rev the engine while slipping the clutch to move. Limped home that way. The ignition module had failed in the distributor. Replaced the crank angle distributor with a used one. Later on this killed my cat converter so that had to be replaced too before I could pass smog. Here's the TPS switch adj procedure from the Haynes manual.

Could hybrid axles be built using OB inner cups & SVX axles to work with the OB 4.44 rear diff? I'm asking this as a courtesy to the buyer of my 4.44 VLSD, who also has an SVX.

5628K332 is a tougher material & $10.91/ft.

Did you look at the duct hoses? May be something there less pricey. http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9lgrc http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=z9ljt4

"Anyone know where to get long, large diameter shock / driveshaft boots? It looks like there are about a half dozen brands, none have sizes listed, and the ones I've tried are too small for these struts. Something at least 2.5" inside diameter and 12" long would be nice." http://www.mcmaster.com/#protective-bellows/=z9kbsa "Anybody know where to get M12x1.25, M14x1.5, and M16x1.5 castle nuts?" McMaster-Carr has nyloc nuts in metric fine thread, don't know if they can special order fine castle nuts(slotted nuts).

Stumbled on this pic of the VIN plate of the 4.44 VLSD donor. It was a wrecked 2000 OB with a EJ251 engine rather than the H6! Perhaps there's some clue to this option on the VIN plate that would help the LSD hunters?

Its been at least 2 yrs since I pulled that VLSD so perhaps it was a 2000 OB. Diffs & axles will swap as needed.

No. I have 2 4.44 ratio R160 diffs from Lego OBs & only one has the VLSD inside. The VLSD came out of an H6 engine OB, the open diff came out of an EJ H4 engine OB. Both were 4EAT trans of course.

I have a 99 lego OB 4.44 R160 VLSD here I'd like to sell. My zip is 91010. PM if interested. Edit 10.05.15: Sorry gang. This VLSD has sold!

tanner93loyale I have a slightly used 90 loyale radiator to sell. PM sent. For anyone else, here's some pics. Bottom mounting pins are 22 inches apart. It is a brass single core radiator.

Yup. The dash wiring harness has more connectors proprietary to the digidash cluster & trip computer, etc. You'd have to kluge two harnesses together to include heater/fan, lights & dimmer, etc to function. I sure wasn't going to tear apart my only econo car dash just to make up a harness for someone else. Too much like work.....think I'll watch the show.

Translation: Hi, I'm a Chilean & I would like it very much if someone could help me with green digidash electrical schematics & the 1993 Loyale analog electrical schematic. (Eyesroll) If you really want help start your own thread.........sans sarcasm. Then again there's this gem from Marlin Crawler for the newbies.......... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6112.0 Have a NICE day.

Karhu, Your digidash is at the shipping company & you have a PM. czny

Sorry Crazyeights. Many unfortunate things have happened since I last posted in this thread. I have boxed up the digidash & harness for shipping to Karhu. I won't unpack it, sorry. Its gone as far as I'm concerned. There is another new member from Chile asking questions on this conversion, but I just don't have time for it now. Good luck to you all.

I've got a pair off my 87 EA82 I'd be willing to let go of. PM your mailing address & I'll figure out the shipping. Make an offer for them in the PM too.