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Hmmm, must be a Tex Avery fan or have read Of Mice and Men. "I think I'll name him George. :D" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Of_Mice_and_Men_in_popular_culture

These work well for locking lug nuts & damaged acorn lug nuts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lug-Nut-Remover-Wheel-Lock-Removal-Kit-3pc-CTA-A157-/400314048540?epid=660342566&hash=item5d3493a01c:g:tnEAAOSwPe1UF7L- I've used them at local PNP when the vehicle prep guys miss a spot. This tool for its compactness: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-Extendable-Lug-Wrench/14560053?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009474690&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40839137672&wl4=pla-89278556345&wl5=9031106&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=14560053&wl13=&veh=sem

+1 You should have at least 1 inch free play at top of pedal travel.

All can be done is point you to this thread - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145258-need-help-swap-analog-to-digital-dash/ There may be more threads so change your search terms to find them. Edit: Scanned GL electrical digidash & fuel sender pages in 87 FSM See attached files87 GL fuel gauge.pdfInspection 2.pdf

You haven't seen the chaos Photobucket has caused in most auto forums yet? They've managed to piss off a nation of auto enthusiasts with their antics. Keep searching USMB - you'll find some pics & threads for a 79 Brat.

Depends on what year Brat & what tire size. Look at some of these then do a search for a Brat like yours with a 2" lift....... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113949-lift-and-tire-size-combo-pics/

Yeah very nice work there. Hope you saved the old digidash threads for future reference. My Photosuckit acct with some of the digidash pics could be closing.

Those look like old Centerline wheels. I'm running early 90s Nissan Pathfinder wheels on my GL wagon with 4" lift. Offset is just right to clear the fender lips.

I have had an Eastern Catalytic converter come apart leaving the 'biscuit' to rattle around inside the can. Never had a Walker nor Magnaflow do that, but the substrates just don't last very long - some shorter than the 2 yr period between mandatory smog testing here in Commiefornia. Check online at Amazon too - saw some kidney shaped cats with all flanges etc as high as $400 there. Happy hunting!

https://www.magnaflow.com/catalytic-converters/catalytic-converters/california/products flanges can be found at Bear River Converters http://www.bearriverconverters.com/ 2 inch repair flanges http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX8051-2-ID-Universal-QuickFix-Exhaust-Spring-Bolt-Flange-Repair-Pipe-Kit-/171101565202 I'm sure someone here will object to aftermarket cats & come up with genuine Subaru part source. Edit: Sure enough GD couldn't resist the bait..................................

Thanks Torry. Given that Photosuckit has sent me a ransom email, we'll see how much longer my pics display now. No one likes being extorted! EDIT: Photosuckers has seen fit to close my account due to Facebookers abusing a public folder. Thanks ginks!

If its a d/r trans then take it out of 4wd - its torque locking. No center differential in a 5MT D/R trans.

You'll wanna keep it high & tight to underside. This round Magnaflow fits very nice.............. Don't remember what model muffler but good tone & not very loud. Edit - page 54 of Magnaflow catalog, model 12634 SS 6 inch round by 14 inch case. 2 inch in & out offset

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47201-bad-fuel-temp-sensor/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Btemp+%2Bsensor+%2Bresistor That's first result a search found - there might be more.

Some of us aren't so lucky. Last time I went for smog the SOB broke the radiator cooling fan switch causing it to overheat on the rack. WTF he was doing with his hands in there I'll never know. Real nice!

How are you getting around the smog inspection? I intend to EJ my 87 GL after registration/smog in September when tags come due. https://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html

Are you sure you didn't pinch the throttle body gasket, that is if you removed it to change the IAC? You might clean the temp sensor, IAC, engine harness(main harness connections below the coil) & ECM connectors. I had an intermittent CEL on my 87 GL recently that was caused by bad connections - the ECM connections under the dash had dust in them. Use contact cleaner. And yes, this did affect startup & cold idle. What made no sense was that it ran so well without any apparent errors until after a long trip to AZ & back. I kept getting temp sensor, IAC, crank angle sensor & speed sensor codes that would never clear, yet all sensors, etc. tested good.

Here's pics of the cheezy China pump. Flex line has metric straight threads on connecting end so........

2 months ago I needed to top off my old 20 gal. solvent parts washer, but since the local Ace Hardware had closed wasn't able to special order mineral spirits in 5 gal cans anymore. Looked for mineral spirits at all the big box stores but none to be found here in Commiefornia. Bought some 1 gal cans of "paint thinner" - which what we used to call mineral spirits - at a Home Depot only to find out it strips in interior paint of my parts washer, melts nylon parts brushes & more. No warning about this on the cans either! Decide to convert the old one to a water based washer & buy a new one strictly for solvent. More about the old washer later. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Gallon-Mobile-Parts-Washer-Cart-Electric-Solvent-Pump-Drying-Shelves-Cleaning/231810887958?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Unfortunately, these have pumps in them that won't tolerate solvent so I found a Little Giant pump to fit the purpose: model # PE-2YA http://www.ebay.com/itm/LITTLE-GIANT-PE-2YSA-Pump-Parts-Washer/221568121193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Miniature strainer for pump are available at McMaster-Carr website. A 60 mesh, 3/4 pipe female thread was chosen for this pump. https://www.mcmaster.com/#9877k815/=18br9so Took about 8 days for solvent to arrive at TSC for local pick up. Much cheaper than store branded mineral spirits, but it is mineral spirits. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005 Notice TSC sells that same parts washer...........convenient. Replaced the cheezy China pump, plumbed with 3/8 pipe & 3/8 fuel hose & barbed fittings. Ball valve added to stop syphoning while changing filter. Filter is standard PH8A Ford screw-on filter with remote filter base available for $15-20. Tapped drain plug boss for 1/4 NPT. Secured 1/4 street elbow & close nipple to boss with JB Weld. Added 1/4 NPT ball valve & plumbing for easy draining. Fabbed a simple retainer for pump of 1 inch wide sheet metal to hold pump in place, a rectangle of rubber pad underneath to quiet pump noise. 3/4 NPT strainer on inlet of pump is to keep the big chunks out. Used old flex line from original parts washer & a bell reducer to 3/8 pipe plumbing. Flex line is 1/4 NPT male thread on those older import parts washers. This Little Giant pump works really well - plenty of pressure through the filter. Parts washer instructions say 6 gal capacity but its more like 7 gal with the filter setup. So 2 5 gal cans of the Crown solvent are good to start with. This will be my final assembly cleaning washer for engine & transmission stuff - no grungy parts allowed. This parts washer comes with, 4 caster wheels, a drain shelf, catch tray for solvent & bottom shelf. 2 hooks on left side for hanging parts brushes too. Plans for old parts washer are to convert it to a heated water based washer for really dirty stuff. Graymills Aquilene 330 is good for this. Will post on that one later when done.

Many years ago before I knew any better, I put a heavier viscosity hypoid lube in my 67 Beetle trans. Until the ambient temperature rose to the 90's F +, the heavy weight hypoid lube made shifting difficult as if the synchros didn't even exist. Got so bad I was double clutching to shift. Changed it back to 90W hypoid rather quickly as it was worse in the winter. Synchro cones brake the gears to match speed with clutch hubs for smooth shifting, so if the brass synchros are locked to corresponding gears by heavy lube, shifting would be sluggish. Unless WA state has a region like the Great Victorian, Mojave or Kalahari deserts, I would say its a bad idea.

Exactly. I have no experience with OZ wheels, so you'll have to measure hole diameter & match up the lugnuts & washers(if needed) to fit. Look at Dorman chart 281-286, page 282. Your wheel guy should be able to help here. Wherever you bought your wheels ought to have 12-1.50 nuts to match. Toyota & others use that thread pitch. It is very common thread size. Subaru & Nissan use 12-1.25 mm thread studs.

Those are 12-1.50 thread studs. He'll have to get lug nuts to suit the studs & wheels. More Dorman charts including applications..........

Here's some pages from Dorman hardware catalog including application chart for 12-1.25mm studs. Stud profiles include knurling diameters/length & etc. Complete catalogs can be found at: dormanproducts.com

Same size as the old air cooled VW axle nuts - 36 mm, or if you're having trouble finding a 36, 1 7/16 inch works in a pinch. Bring a long prybar to lock the hub from moving by placing it across 2 wheel studs, one top, one bottom side of studs.