czny

Wouldn't cost you much to add that belt then try it again. Maybe A/C stopped cooling because the old belt left the scene on the road somewhere in the past. Inner belt may be a Continental 17386 or Dayco 17385. Outer belt may be a Continental 17450 or Dayco 17451. O'Reilly has similar part numbers.

I noticed from your 1st & 3rd pics that you're not running the 2nd belt on A/C compressor. If you're trying to get work out of that compressor it has to have the 2nd belt driving it. Or is that compressor seized so you left the belt off?

I've bought 3 rebuilt compressors from this outfit for 3 different auto brands all with good results. They may have what you need. Either Matsushita or Hitachi, they have a lot of cores. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-Dl-Gl-Gl10-1-8l-Used-57496-/381569928173?vxp=mtr&hash=item58d7570bed https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-1988-1989-Subaru-GL-DL-GL10-1-8L-1year-Warranty-R57496-/380351355955?vxp=mtr&hash=item588eb51c33 https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Compressor-Subaru-Brat-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-1-year-Warranty-R57453-/380476766163?vxp=mtr&hash=item58962eb7d3

McMaster-Carr part number: 4936K408 https://www.mcmaster.com/#bspt-to-npt-pipe-fitting-adapters/=1dyf6ni

Only aftermarket TPS by Standard Motor Products is P/N TH281, which is being sold on fleabay for wallet gouging prices. Well over the $300 mark. Except this seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-94360849-0-Throttle-Position-Sensor-TH281-fits-Subaru-DL-GL-GL10-RX-1987/112369023682?epid=756695432&hash=item1a29b73ac2%3Ag%3ALZsAAOSwls5Y7uJ8&_sacat=0&_nkw=TH281+&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

IF this is a EA82 SOHC then starter solenoid contacts are same as for 20R & 22R Toyota truck starter. Starter rotation direction is difference between the two brands Subaru & Toyota. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-REPAIR-KIT-TOYOTA-CRESSIDA-4RUNNER-CELICA-PICKUP-20R-22R-22RE/162732627329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Checking for power in & out at ign sw is easy with a test light. Just need to remove bottom column cover. What model is this 86 Sube?

Just had a similar intermittent no start on my 87 GL yesterday. Odd because batt is fully charged & starter works when jumped from sol conn to positive. Pulled steering column bottom cover to look at ign sw & behold if the stakes holding sw together had loosened. Removed sw from column lock, gently squeezed it together in a vise with leather glove to protect wires & solder joints. Staked sw back together with small chisel & light hammer. Put column back together after testing & all was good. Back in business!

If all else fails, disconnect the engine harness on DS, clean it & re-connect. Sometimes oxides can cause problems in pin & sleeve connectors.

Bad things come in threes. Dam that Murphy........................! Pres reg on my 87 Gl wagon (also EA82 SPFI, Dave) failed causing stumbling/dying immediately after startup. Luckily right in my driveway. I had already done the fuel pump a week before. Had some spare TBI bodies to rob a reg from.

Was thinking something similar. Cut pres reg can off mounting plate, weld/silver solder fpt fitting to plate & screw in 5/16" hose barb. Insert external pres reg in return line.

Only difference is high pres fitting & resevoir between the years 83 & 87. Change fitting on later pump & you should be golden. Look at the pics on RockAuto for 83 & 87 gls for differences. I'd have to dig for it but I may have the late resevoir & a core pump.

Mine is also an 87 SPFI GL for comparison. Few yrs ago had the crank angle sensor in distributor start giving out. Car would cut out under lighter loads as things got worse. Swapped distrib & all was good then. Crank angle sensor was failing. ECU codes 11 & 13.

Did the same thing a few yrs ago - clears SPFI intake manifold just fine with hose barb.

Just experienced a FP failure 2 days ago, fortunately right in my driveway. Week & half before was first instance but didn't think of a pump at first as the starter wasn't engaging to restart engine. Cranked the cold engine over, engine would rev up to about 2K rpm then die. One cell in battery was a little low so I thought maybe my 10mo old battery had a shorted cell perhaps. Charged the battery after topping up the cells, load test showed battery good. Hmmm........on a hunch looked to FP & sure enough pressure was much lower than 50psi with return line pinched off. Didn't bother testing running fuel pressure - went right to replace FP. And filter. Wix 33471. Vaguely recall that FP was replaced some 6-7 yrs ago(this is my 87 EA82 SPFI car BTW). Replaced the Airtex E8312 with a Carter P70304(made in USA) that I had squirreled away in the garage. BTW. Driving down 15 fwy last month noticed intermittent power loss on steep uphills & reduced power as well before this complete FP failure.

Too bad McMaster-Carr doesn't ship to Aus. https://www.mcmaster.com/#lapping-compounds/=1dgxn9k $16.44 is a lot more bearable. Then there's this gouging https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLOVER-VALVE-GRINDING-PASTE-Lapping-Compound-Coarse-120-Grit-2oz-Fine-280-2-oz-/291731991773 Edit: there must be industrial or auto sources for valve lapping pastes over there.

Nice! Glad to have helped!

Page 1575 of 25th edition of Machinery Handbook states that: "the general rule is to use dowel-pins of the same size as the screws for fastening the work. The length of the dowel-pin should be about one and one-half to two times its diameter in each plate or part to be doweled." What dia. is that dowel? 5 or 6 mm? From the pic I'm guessing 6 mm. Common lengths at McMaster-Carr are here:https://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-dowel-pins/=1dfabqo Try feeling for the dowel end with a strong pickup magnet thru the brg web perhaps? Only has to be light enough press fit to hold it firmly & this should allow air or grease/hydraulic action to push it out. Edit: Is it the pic or is there a small flat on that dowel? If so, air or grease won't get it. Back to your leverage ideas.

If its a blind hole drill a tiny hole at right angle to it approx where the bottom would be then use a rubber tipped airgun to blow it out. If air doesn't move it then hydraulic pressure with a grease gun could. Did this to remove a broken cross pin bolt stub in a Chevy diff yrs ago - it works.

No disrespect to the OP, but you're all over the place with this diagnosis stuff, kmpdx. And so are we in a way. When you finally do get some solid info, come back & post it for us to help you if you still need it.

http://www.walkerexhaust.com/support/diagnosing-converter-issues/check-converter-temperature You find cheap infrared temperature guns at Harbor Freight.

Look at his avatar - 1991 Loyale. More likely SPFI.

How many miles on this engine? Weak or broken valve springs will limit engine performance. If it were a broken spring you'd notice a sudden performance change. Weak springs develop over time.

Yeah, that thermo bulb is meant to be stuffed into the evap coils to compensate for changing temps. OK, so you don't know if the evaporator or condenser coils are clean & free flowing. The filter should be somewhere near the inlet line to the condenser, sometimes in front of the radiator if small enough. Some filters have a view window built into the top. Others have ports for the high-low pressure switches. Changing the high side filter when replacing the compressor is a MUST. So is flushing the coils & lines to rid the system of contaminated oils & particulates. Most parts store carry system flush in aerosol cans for $15-20. After flushing blow out all parts with dry compressed air. AND, evacuating the system then charging with a little R134 to test for leaks before fully charging the system. Also, did you drain the compressor oil then refill it with recommended oil? Likewise with the filter & condenser. There has to a certain total amount of oil in the system to survive. Otherwise you'll be lunching the compressor again & again, contaminating the lines, condenser, evaporator etc again & again. Here's a 99 Lego drier-accumulator-filter: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2195678&cc=1389405&jsn=351 More reading: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163981-98-outback-ac-work-compressor-dryer-and-evaporator/?hl=%2Bconditioning+%2Bcompressor&do=findComment&comment=1363158

I meant to say "replaced the compressor(comma) expansion valve & still" etc. Does that expansion valve have a pilot tube connected to the system - in other words there are three connections to it? Did you replace the inline filter when you did the compressor too? A clogged filter would affect the pressures. Did you flush the evaporator & condenser coils? Another thing often overlooked are the rubber lines themselves. Inner linings have been known to collapse, blocking flow.