czny

Method 2 for bleeding: Install the M/C & connect all lines tight, but not too tight. Fill M/C resevoir to top line. Crack all connecting lines loose 1/4 turn. Go inside & pump the brakes slowly full strokes for 6-8 pumps. Go refill M/C & do it again until you can hear fluid squirting. Tighten up the lines then go thru bleeding at the wheels with a check valve bleeder tool into a soda bottle with some brake fluid in it. Fluid in bottle is to keep bleed tool from sucking air back up into system. LF whl 1st, RR whl 2nd, RF whl 3rd, LR whl 4th, until no more air. May take a big bottle of fluid to get it done. One man operation. Done it for years this way. Just for giggles, check your brake proportioning valve under the car for leaks. DS under the back seat area. My 87 GL valve leaked so had to improvise with aftermarket proportioning valves up front in engine compartment. See my czny member car build.

NAPA bench bleed video: Beck-Arnley products are generally good choice: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=485051&cc=1270055&jsn=372 Raybestos is usually my first choice: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309748&cc=1270055&jsn=381 Get a bleeding kit from NAPA or HF with universal fittings x 2, cheap clip set & a cheap wire separator set & make your own bleeder setup.

Do 97 ej22 mechanical rocker assys use the same spring washers?

Yes, there's supposed to be a plug in there with a metal sealing washer. Look at your passenger side to give you an idea what it looks like, if its there.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/R-12-Refrigerant-3-National-R-12-Can-Usa-made-genuine-12oz-Can/222647142150?epid=0&hash=item33d6cdc706:g:l9oAAOSwj9dZvXqR If its all leaked out, find the leak with dye & a black light, fix it. Then remove the compressor, drain the mineral oil & refill it with fresh oil before you recharge it with R-12. Four Seasons website has fill capacities for oil & R12. Oils can hold contaminants in suspension for a long time.

There are 3 marks on the FW for cam timing. Use the middle mark only for L or R cam timing setup. Ignition timing marks should be obvious. I painted my 20* & middle cam marks with a silver paint marker for clarity. Any light color paint will do. Yup, the split where the VC meets the cam tower is a good reference for cam sprocket lineup. Those videos kinda got buried in the last forum update I guess along with some great old threads about Frankensteinian transmission mods, etc. Time for new bookmarks.

Start with basics. Unplug, clean & re-connect your engine harness connectors a few times to make sure they are making good contact. 5V sensors can't have any resistance lowering signal voltages to ECM. Get undet the dash & make sure ECM connectors are good. Especially check that white translucent connector to left of ECM with all the shielded wires in it. That's your sensor nexus to ECM. Check all your chassis & engine grounds. Eliminate any poor electrical connections before you start swapping out MAFs, etc because I've been a victim of that myself. Search for bucking, stalling problem thread. Poor sensor connections can seem like failing sensors so any weak link in harness chain can cause a problem.

700 rpm + / - 100 rpm. According to tuneup decal under my 87 5MT D/R GL hood. So 650 Rs is OK.

Clockwise one full turn looking from grill end at the engine. Running engine rotates clockwise looking from grill so tension on belt is from crank pulley to bottom of oil pump across idler to cam sprocket. Drivers side belt has slack top - tension bottom. Its talked about in this thread recently:

Google this: ultimatesubaru/frankenmotor Start reading then take two aspirin & call us in the morning....

Noticed that that crank angle sensor had such a wide range of makes & models for application when I hunted for a replacement too. Standard Motor Products #LX-653. http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/STD/#/vehicles Looks like in a pinch a good used one could be found.

Get an Exedy or Luk clutch for 4wd, 225 mm dia., have the flywheel resurfaced & the FW register for the clutch cover cut so depth is 0.810 inch for lots of clutch pressure for those big tires. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4696989&cc=1270112&jsn=372 And while you're there replace the FW seal. Check your engine mounts too. Spongy mounts don't help. Just a thought....... are you sure you didn't overtighten the clutch cable? There should be about 1.5 inch freeplay at top of pedal travel.

That's what it sounds like to me also: " I’ve got an ‘87 Gl with a 4” lift and bigger tires. Ea81 and Webber carb. I’ve been having a hard time accelerating from a stop. It also looses all power going up hill, freeway and just in town. My rpms are there, but the car isn’t moving hardly at all. I believe this issue started just before I inherited it from my friend 6 months ago. Since then I have replaced the fuel filters, done an oil change, and that’s about it. Last week the bushings on my clutch cable disentigrated causing the cable to loosen. I didn’t replace the bushing but did tighten the cable back up with just the tensioning bolts. " 4" lift + bigger tires + clutch cable problem + feathering clutch a lot to get going might = slipping clutch later on.

Try pushing in the clutch pedal part way while accelerating. If you don't feel much difference the clutch disc may be worn so thin that the clutch doesn't engage/lock up fully.

Check your PM inbox Craigar. Oil pump is on its way - ETA Saturday. You may be pleasantly surprised at the extras. Good luck!

I'm in process of moving to Montana after living in Azusa CA area for 25+ yrs. A remote place isolated from main hwys & 16 miles from a small town. Nice people & nice area. I checked out eastern OR like around La Grande or Baker, rural farming communities. But I didn't like the direction OR is going - emissions wise, socially or 2nd amendment wise. Too much like Commiefornia. But then there is a meth problem everywhere these days......... Still tying up loose ends down here while wishing I was up there already. I keep a .68 cal C02 paintball pistol loaded with hard rubber balls, which may not keep me out of jail but being nonlethal may not get as much jail time in Cacafornica. As to disabling your car, look for that 12 volt guy circuit to stop car thieves. No blinking alarm light to alert the GTA wannabe. I added a glass breakage sound sensor to my DEI alarm for added warning. Tapping a key hard against the glass sets it off.

I already had an LSD diff under my GL(bought it from a member here) but some guy had stopped at my house & tried to con me out of it. He wanted it for his 510 Datsun sedan. Bad vibes from that guy. That made me nervous for awhile - that I'd find my car disabled one morning. Shortly thereafter found that GL in a PNP yard many miles away. Had time to recall that 88 GL, which was a blue metallic GL-10, car had the darker decals on lower part of the doors, etc. Found it at Pick-A-Part Ontario CA, but by the time I got there the rear diff cover was lying underneath the car & diff was missing. Found the diff housing & ring gear about 100 yds away stripped of the LSD. Like the guy was hunting for someone with an impact to remove the ring gear bolts. Deduced that 2 + 2 = LSD in a 510 Datsun.

Not all GL-10's. I searched for LSDs when i find them. Odd thing is, found one in a 88 GL with pushbutton FT 4WD once.

Not Superpro but some of us here used Toy leaf spring bushings like these cut down to fit the arms: https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-8-2105G-Spring-Bushing/dp/B000CNB3FQ You'd have to make steel sleeves with heavy wall tubing but its doable. Just split the difference in length for cutting bushings.

Well that would've been nice to know..........there's a rev sensor in the circuit for fuel pump & I don't know where that is. Search function does work tho.... I'm out.

IF yours is spfi it will be mounted on a bracket held with one screw to a dash support behind the instrument cluster. BUT you can get at it by removing the plastic panels on between steering wheel & foot pedals, then lowering your ECM(3 12 mm nuts hold this in place) to get at the screw. Fuel pump relay is the round one - Intermotor(SMP) part # RY51. Don't confuse that one with 4 relays on back of dash above fuse panel. They are interchangeable though. If yours is carbureted someone else will have to chime in.

" Lucky fella with photo allowance ! Thanks CZNY " Not a photo allowance here at USMB, jono........a photo allowance on host site. As to that cable in LHD cars, there has to be a huge "S" shape to it as installed to go from LH drivers side foot to clutch fork right?

MY 87 ea82 spfi fuel pump relay(Std Mtr Prod # RY51) is located above ECM alongside ignition relay(Std Mtr Prod # RY56). Both mounted to same bracket held with 1 screw after moving ECM out of way. Relay contacts can & do fry lowering voltage thru contacts.

'87 EA82 GL wagon clutch cable: 33 5/8 inches from clevis end to tip of threaded end.

Did you get your money back on that first "correct" compressor? Something wrong with the one I sent you Subarule? It felt like it would make pressure to me turning it over by hand.