czny

If this is an SPFI EA82, did you remember to put the screw back in the rotor? Check the button in center of disty cap sticks out some & has spring to it so it contacts center of rotor.

Working on a couple others again first. Then to the GL EJ swap. May think about later on rear suspension swap similar to your project in Off Road. But with a R180 4.11 diff & 2005 WRX STi LSD, axles & hubs. Likewise front suspension improvements too.

Good. Will stick with 94 ej22 heads I've already got, Cometic hybrid gaskets(same ones you & I searched for a few years ago Dan) & "99 EJ25D lower end with the dished pistons. It's that same '96 harness w/o EGR you stripped for me yrs ago. '96 OBD2 Calif. donor vehicle. How's your Brother printer doing? '97 cams & rockers with Delta 200 grind per their recommendation.

Yup, torque gets things moving whereas horsepower sustains speed. It wasn't that long ago, 2017, that GD posted in a similar thread for Frankenmotor builds that used EJ22 cyl heads.

GD, Without changing pistons in a '99 EJ25D block, because its already been refreshed, would 2002-2003 EJ25D SOHC head would work with that block? No problems with piston crown shape & valve layout? Which cyl head gasket would you recommend? Also 642, or thicker? Yes, I get the idea about squish. Still want to run with Delta 200 grind cams if possible with mechanical rockers, all from 97 ej22. EJ22 heads were chosen in yrs before these newer choices were readily available in self-serve yards in So Cal. EJ22 heads were the ones of choice in older threads as recent as 2017. Already have stripped down '96 ej22 harness, SOHC intake, crank & cam sprockets, ECM. Thanks.

Without changing pistons in a '99 EJ25D block, as in the above pic, would you say 2002-2003 EJ25D SOHC head would be a good choice & which cyl head gasket would you recommend? EJ22 heads were chosen in yrs before these newer choices were readily available in self-serve yards in So Cal. Still want to run with Delta 200 grind cams if possible. From Matt's Compression Ratio Calc, the combo would be about 10.04.

'99 EJ25D Lego OB block EJ22 cyl head with Cometic gasket '94 EJ22 cyl head, Delta 200 grind cams('97 mechanical rockers + cams), '99 EJ25D Cometic PN tag

Until you can get 4 tires all same size, tread, etc, put the 185's on RH side & 175's on LH to see if it follows crown of the road better on black ice & snow road conditions. Being that you're in McCammon ID just S of Pocatello I can imagine that's what you're driving in at times. Until the plow gets there that is. Thanksgiving day & Friday after 2018 was spent driving from Troy MT to Tonasket WA(250 mi ea way) by way of WA20 over two 5000+ ft passes covered in crunchy snow & black ice, mostly in 4Hi. When things got loose in back I just turned front wheels slightly to plow the other way. But all 4 tires on my 87 GL are of same size, etc. with LSD in rear. Sherman Pass(5300ft) was closed just after I got thru on that Friday, as I learned at Beaver Lodge. Near white-out conditions with freezing fog in places. Fun, fun, fun.

Certainly doesn't help. Tires need to be ALL of same diameter.

There is no center differential - in 4 hi/lo its locked front & rear. You don't need 4wd on pavement or hard packed ground. It will torque bind then. Are you sure the rear diff is 3.90 ratio? Look for a decal on cover. Try shifting out of 4wd in 1st at slow speed.

Here are similar 4 ft'ers: https://www.ruralking.com/4-led-shop-light-5500-lumens?trk_msg=LOJC4K3P74RKJECJNG73V27R9S&trk_contact=E8JCHBIQHA1A29S9VMGK0VU9US&trk_sid=PLKD7MS0MULMETQIPDK531SOHO&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=27100054&utm_campaign=January+2019&utm_content=2019-01-26+Hardware

Look at page 10 in this pdf..........its been asked many many times. The info is out there in the ethernet. http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf

Get yourself a set of transfer punches - useful for hole alignment any time before drilling. https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-8600-0041-Piece-Transfer-Punch/dp/B01ADBNEJE/ref=asc_df_B01ADBNEJE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13749367472588581549&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031106&hvtargid=pla-451461872588&psc=1 Knock controls for drag racing can get pricey for knock retard. This one was about $600 in 2008: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html If you have an analog (needle) ohmmeter you could test your idea by waving that reluctor past the pickup to get an idea of where your 'sweet spot' is.

Carbide tipped drill bits are less money. Low RPM with lots of pressure & no cutting lube needed. There are spiral flute taps available for hard materials. https://www.mcmaster.com/carbide-tipped-drill-bits Because these are small diameter screws, you might get by with a cobalt bit on low rpm with a drill-tap fluid. Then work slowly with a hand tap keeping your hands as steady as you can, also with fluid like Tap Magic. It's only two holes...........

Naru, You're right about those distrib caps for Nissan. What a cluster F of coil buttons etc inside. 8 plugs to foul & wires to go bad on an L4. Was wasting my time waiting for freight delivery of a new hood & rear bumper for my 73 Chevy Nova. Steptoe, Might be easier to find a later distrib to mod for that EA81T knock control(?) Those Subaru modules might be NOS somewhere......only a maybe.

Show us all your documentation if you really want to help. I say to you Naru - prove it! Until then here's more info for you Jono: https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11184923/airtex-6h1250.html#interchange

1982-83 Nissan 200SX, (maybe?): These cross over to 88921540 not 88921685. who knows but the pinout may be in different order(?) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49874&cc=1208562&jsn=942 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,200sx,2.2l+l4,1208573,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 1984 & up NA & turbo Nissan 200sx is same module as optical EA82, Std Prod #LX653. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1206-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-4L-L4-/123276988099?hash=item1cb3e18ec3 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-WVE-BY-NTK-6H1217-fits-83-85-Nissan-720-2-0L-L4-/263839904510?hash=item3d6e1572fe Maybe go look into the NGK/NTK search for crossover to 88921653...

Fuel hose was a stop-gap until I could get to NAPA store 35 mi away for real coolant hose. Fuel hose was all the big-box auto store had in stock. Adding loops or coils of extra length to avoid cracking works for auto oil pressure lines, production machinery lubrication lines. I was being facetious with 1/4" copper line thing...........;)

Had the same thing happen here a couple times. While intake manifold was out last time I replaced tube in block with 1/8 pipe 45* fitting & 1/4" barbedX1/8" pipe fitting + 1/4" barbedX1/8 pipe fitting in thermostat housing in place of tube. Used 1/4" fuel injection hose with screw clamps. Search, this fix was documented with pics here at USMB. What's next to bullet-proof it? 1/4" copper tubing with compression nuts & ferrules?

Had same thing happen to my 4wd 87 GL. Pulled back all the RH side interior carpet & pad, drilled out the nut, ground the inside surface flat-ish, then tack welded a rectangle of 3/8 steel plate to inner well inside. Prepped that plate beforehand with a countersunk hole for a flat head allen bolt long enough to reach thru all shock brackets. Secured with self-locking nut from wheel side. Painted to stop rust inside & out of course. Idea is to sandwich fender well sheet metal for more shear strength. Sorry but didn't get any pics when I did that work.

Well its too late now......already mounted a light bar on my 87 GL. My decision was based on my on road experiences with whitetail deer, elk & bighorn sheep at twilight & night time. Not on how much I could blind the next guy. I have rarely used it but when I did it was a great help seeing far enough ahead & to the road sides to avoid an accident in NW Montana. Lighten up Dan.

Those were sold by Dorman under the Motormite label. Notice the outline "M" between TAIWAN & the part number? Not everything Dorman is quality.........

Bennie, my readings are with factory gauge & sending unit only. Idle drops down to 10-15 psi fully hot. Enough psi to sustain hydraulic lifters, rods & mains. Will do a mechanical OP gauge when EJ it finally. My 182K mile EA82 is still running without ticks or knocks so I'll just get all the goodness out of it until I can park it behind my gate again to do the EJ swap. If it ain't broke...... " Mine has doubled in the past week; something is going on " kayakertom, had you done a reseal on the engine recently using silicone somewhere near an oil passage? Could be that some debris is hanging up the pressure regulator in oil pump maybe(?)

1) these EA GL gauges aren't very accurate and 2) my 87 GL reads same high when cold pressures, 65-70 on startup Pressure drops to 45 in cruise and stays about 40 psi at 3-3.5K rpm full hot after 2 hrs hwy running. Yours readings seem to be just fine to me.

What bronze alloy did you use for those synchros, 932(SAE660) alloy? Did you do those in a CNC machine center or lathe?