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Yeah Bennie, what meant was to find a copper alloy heater core with brass tubes to solder to. I found one years ago & it's stashed away for the day I finally need it. My old radiator go to shop, Associated Radiator in Covina CA had brass radiator & heater cores on hand for repairs last time I asked about it a year ago. https://associatedautorepair.com/ https://usradiator.com/cores

Adapting a different heater core is what I would do too. Find something with a like sized core, cut off the swaged hose bits & solder on the tubes from the old heater core with copper couplings. I'll need to do this too this summer. Some condensation develops on inside of windshield when parked overnight after running it this winter. It's either the heater core leaking slightly or mice breathing hard.

https://thebrassworks.net/collections/heater-cores/harrison-78 https://thebrassworks.net/pages/how-long-will-it-take-to-get-my-order 😉

You're welcome! Good luck with your fixes! I did the relay mods for Lo & Hi beams, quad headlights/halogen lamps inboard with LED lamps outboard. LED lamps do not generate enough heat to keep them from icing up. I changed the outers to halogen last fall to fix that icing problem. We do get freezing fog & freezing rain here in western Montana.

Blast from the past: https://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight-relay-modification/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110898-dl-square-headlight-upgrades/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bconversion#entry930708

Thought this would interest some here: https://www.diehl.com/cms/files/Synchronizer_Rings_Brochure_2020.pdf

My apologies, I was thinking of GL/DL which uses 2 sets of contacts to supply power to the TBI ECM. My GL behaved the same way as his XT - start, rise to 2000 + rpm, then die. Would not idle. Looked over the Haynes manual electrical schematic for 86 MPFI: The green fusible link powers a single contact ignition relay to ECM on MPFI(wht/red wire). Fuse 11 powers the fuel pump relay(blk/wht wire). Green fusible link powers fuel pump and Aux air valve(blu wire).

Snake your hand over that antenna cable at top Left of pic & feel around on top of steering column for 2 relays - one round can & one squarish. The round one is fuel pump relay & squarish one ignition relay. If there, remove the black harness screws to get at little Phillips screw holding the relay bracket. If the relay rattles when you shake it one contact pair is broken. If not there, someone with an XT shop manual needs to chime in. Only ones I have here are for GL/DL.

Could be the 6 pin ignition relay which is above the ECM next to the steering column. There are 2 relays there held to a small bracket with a single screw. The black Chinese replacements are junk & fail too quickly. Look for a brown Legacy ignition relay for 1990 to 1994 models. I've had this happen to my 87 GL twice now, when I used the black Chinese relays they failed prematurely. You'll have to pull down the kick panel above the pedal cluster & remove the ecm to get at it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3786111&cc=1269446&pt=3480&jsn=388

I've used an old wheel barrow inner tube to make them for spares when rebuilding. MC inner tubes, other inner tubes may also work. Anything to cover the big end boot bands & protect them from rocks, etc. Remove axle, slip band on with silicone spray & reinstall.

If your 86 GL is a D/R 4WD it might have come off one of the rear axles. I still have the rubber bands on my rear axle boot big ends.

azdave: Thanks Captain Obvious! I was wearing my bell captain's suit when I typed that! 🤨 . A seller of NOS was how I had found those Monroe struts years ago. At least these Sachs struts were made in Mexico & not China. I'll be replacing my front strut springs soon because the road salts used in states to W of me have corroded right thru the powder coating. Broken suspension springs are not a good thing.

Only if you get hazardous duty pay scale. And oodles of health insurance to pay for recovery when they fail. Seriously, if that was what you wanted done, it would be more economical to change to a more modern vehicle that is better supported.

Kanurys, check your PM box.

Monroe struts for GL 4wd wagon 85 & up were 71876 FR, 71877 FL. Just changed my inner & outer tie rod ends so I wire brushed & sanded the road salt rust off to see the numbers. They were made in Spain circa 2005.

I had the Sachs on front of my 87 GL 4WD and they were less stiff than the KYBs I used to have. IIRC KYB discontinued the 4WD struts before the 2WD ones so the KYBs that you might possibly find today are 2WD version with the spring perch 1" lower than the 4WD version. Since that time that KYB discontinued those for us GL 4WD wagoneers kanurys, Monroe used to make them. Don't know about nowadays though.

Rosebud tips are generally used for heating larger areas/pieces, like the knuckle before dropping in your new chilled bearing. Use a smaller cutting torch tip and keep the flame short. Soak some shop rags in water and drape them over things you don't want to catch fire, like cv boots. Find some table top heat pads like for serving dishes or pots at bargain stores for heat shields while heating with the torch. Drill small holes for bailing wire hangers.

I added a 1" spacer to the crossmember lift and lengthened the steering coupler enough to work with the lift change. 4" strut lift + 4" crossmember lift. Improved axle angles and much fewer axle re-boots. There are some old threads about this. IIRC, there were also suggestions that 90's lego OB crossmember spacers and hardware could be used. Hard to find the old threads anymore. Wayback machine thread searches are in your future. Avoid import axles like the plague. Re-boot some OEM used axles for spares.

If that plug is steel, tap a 5/8-11 hex nut on it then weld them together with a MIG, or arc + 7014 rod. Not a lot of weld bead, just enough to make it stick. Let cool then try unscrewing the plug.

No.3 are rear diff mount bracket spacers, you need longer bolts for that. 3 & 5 are about dropping the rear diff evenly.

Sleeved bolts space the rear diff pumpkin down as does the flat alloy plate. Two sets of holes - one pair for 4 inch lift the other pair for 6 inch, IIRC. Search USMB for rear diff top mount repairs if yours is damaged/worn out.

Isn't that commutator supposed to be cylindrical? Looks like it had been re-brushed a few times and never turned on a lathe the way its worn. Abrasive dust can kill a motor too. I'm sure you could find a service similar to this one local to you: https://eurtonelectric.com/catalog/armatures Search for small DC electric motor repair.

Its pinned in Retrofitting FAQ. 2nd topic thread. Several links in there too.

For myself in 87 GL wagon, planned to use OEM switch with mechanical OP gauge. Switch port in case is 1/8 BSP, right? 1/8 NPT female tee: https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K75, with this adapter: https://www.mcmaster.com/4860K611. Or, a branch tee https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K219 with this adapter: https://www.mcmaster.com/4860K141 Copper tubing from engine to inside OP gauge with 3-4 coils of tubing between engine & firewall to prevent fracture.