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Only one more little thing to do when pulling the engine for a clutch job. Pilot brg usually comes with a clutch kit.

If the PO didn't replace the pilot brg when they did the clutch, the input shaft could still be turning the worn input shaft brg at the back of the trans,thus making that noise(?) Just a guess.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ Read this old thread. Might give you some insight as to noises. IIRC, there's an old thread by Gloyale & others from 2000 decade with similar noises. Didn't find it yet.

Have you checked the fuel vent pipe and hoses for kinks or dents. All this stuff is behind the passenger side wheel and metal shield. Could be rock/ice damage to fill neck vent tube. If the fuel tank can't vent it won't fill.

This pdf only covers Subaru to 1980 but there were a lot of Hitachi carbs using the same solenoids. http://tomco-inc.com/Catalog/idlesolenoids.pdf http://tomco-inc.com/CarbCatalog.htm

You may have to buy the whole replacement solenoid then. Or cut the end cap off with a cutoff wheel & die grinder, put a contact, brush and end gasket on it (?) Is it a cast solenoid body? I did a search for solenoid contacts on fleabay and there just weren't as many valid results that I remember in 2018. Maybe a search for Toyota forklift starter parts too? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1311&_nkw=denso+starter+rebuild+kit&_sacat=0

The solenoid contacts are the same as Toyota 20 & 22R starter solenoids. It's the bendix gear and motor that are different in rotation. Somewhere in USMB history I made a post about this same subject. There it is! https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167347-86soob-wont-start/?do=findComment&comment=1387840

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-14151-Master-Cylinder-Bleeding/dp/B08M4D9HSB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2KWX4S30D88K6&keywords=brake+master+cylinder+bench+bleeder+kit&qid=1701377743&sprefix=master+cylinder+bench+bleeder+kit%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-5

Just had to replace both front calipers, pads & rotors(F&R) on my 87 GL this summer. R front piston had seized so I only had half braking, pads were dragging. At the time, could only find a Nugeon R caliper and a Cardone L caliper. Replaced the M/C, and hillholder too. I had a donor vehicle here for that. Might have to make brake parts corrosion an annual thing with the road salts here... It took 2 big bottles of brake fluid to do the job front & rear (did rear disc conversion long ago). After all that, discovered the LH parking brake cable wasn't returning correctly. Had to pull off that Cardone L caliper only to find the caliper parking brake lever wasn't returning - Cardone in Ontario Calif had left the return spring out! 🤬 Haynes manual shows how to make & use a special tool to compress the spring washers to get at the return spring and fulcrum. Robbed one from my old caliper to get that done. Then after yet another 2 bottles of brake fluid later I was done! If you have to replace front calipers , do it in L&R pairs, make sure the caliper pins get brake lube or antiseize with new or good pin boots, and don't buy Cardone calipers! Rockauto lists Raybestos and Nugeon again, thankfully!

You need to bleed the lines closest to the master cylinder first(front calipers), then the rear. If you do the opposite you may siphon air from the short un-bled lines where the lines connect at tees, hill holder, etc. Bleed M/C with lines just loosened a little until fluid pushes out, then tighten them up. Put an oil pan underneath to catch the mess. Hose it down with brake cleaner afterward. Bleed order is Left front, then right rear. Right front, then left rear. Get a one man bleeder kit with a check valve in it. Put the valve end in a small plastic bottle with a little brake fluid in it to stop air from going back up the bleeder hose. Pump slowly with full strokes of the pedal 6 to 8 times at each wheel then check the reservoir after closing the bleeder. Not trying to discount what you know of bleeding brakes, just repeating what has worked for me since the 70's when working alone. Used to be a NIASE dealer mechanic. Good luck!

Bennie, that carb kit # 254556737560, is on sale right now out of Ontario Calif. for $33.99 USD and ships for $23.40 USD. MUCH less than $200 AU. Even if it isn't the quality kit you get over there, at least you'd have something to work with if needed.

Bennie, it sounds like the float level could be low, leaning out the mixture. If it were a sinking float with a leak in it, the needle & seat would be open too much of the time, high level fuel flooding over into the venturi. Some times you can see drips of fuel while at idle. This sounds like a gurgling while at cruise. If it were a brass float, leaks can be found by putting it in a pan of boiling water & watch for bubbles escaping. Carb kit on fleabay, item # 254556737560 I'm guessing at your MY.

Add to this a possible cracked distributor cap or rotor. Condensation inside the cap causing tracking. I've once found tracking going thru the rotor center to the distributor shaft too.

Check your engine harness connectors. Make sure they are clean & bright, no corrosion. I just had to rebuild my 87 GL TBI harness with wiring from a 92 loyale donor. It was doing the same - missing/cutting out at part throttle cruise. Is yours TBI or carby? If carby maybe the float level?

Bushings 3 & 5 good too?

No one was doing jumps ala Mr Majestyk, were they? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAFKqkifqBM You know, the teenager that always says "it wasn't me!"

Are the drivers side "K" cross member body nuts intact & bolts tight? Are the 3 toe-in bolts on the rear adjusted & tight? Or are some missing? Stuff happens.

nevermind, wrong engine.

Hill holder return spring missing or broken? Clutch T/O arm end of hill holder cable needs adjustment because the clutch disc has worn some?

Unless you're willing to spend hundreds to buy & work with old machinery, it would be more economical/expedient to send the heads to a reputable machine shop. Valve facing machines like old Sioux or KO Lee need some TLC to get them in working order. Look on fleabay & you'll see what I mean. Search the fsm for yours to find valve stem heights. I don't know the specs but they are available somewhere.

That's the way I've seen it done. Set all the stem heights to spec by grinding the stems. First redo the seats & valve faces, then the stem heights.

Could the tensioner have bent the crank sprocket guard into the timing teeth when it failed, damaging the points of that sprocket? The crank belt guard that bolts on above the sprocket is what I mean. If it was left out when the shop put things back you may have never seen it to know(?) Looks to me like the gap to the crank sensor is too large.

I'm sure you've already checked into this nearby you, but here's a complete shortblock for you. https://www.subarupartwholesale.com/p/Subaru_2003_Forester-251-MT-XS/Engine-Short-Block/49223006/10103AB390.html 2 yrs ago I managed to O/H a neighbors NA 2003 Forester block with recon crank, rods, main & rod brgs, BUT, I had the tools to mike the case main bores to make sure the spun rod bearings didn't hammer out the main bores. Get a jdm complete or a lower end if the price is right. Your cyl heads check out OK, right? I'm sure GD & others will check in here too. It's your money & time.

Scroll down to the Kia front springs: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/#comment-897956

Yes, my 87 GL wagon 4wd spfi d/r has this relay above the ecm next to the fuel pump relay.