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Did you look up the ABS brake bleed procedure, IF that Forester has ABS? https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/abs-pump-activation-bleeding-brakes.502561/

I've used something similar to bleed - a small hose with a check valve at the end. Far cheaper than vacuum bleeders etc. They're called one man bleeders. In my experience with Subaru master cylinders, it takes 6-8 pumps before you need to refill. Press the pedal slowly down, then slowly up so you don't draw more air back in. After closing bleeder, check your pedal for firmness or sponginess & sinking. Rinse & repeat as needed until firm & holding well.

IF you are in an area with freezing winter fog, freezing rain or winter mix, you may not want LED headlights. They don't produce enough heat to keep them clear of ice, reducing light output. I used to have LED headlights until I discovered that problem and changed back to halogen.

I attempted to have Damitzon send correct parts twice only. Both times they screwed things up & there was a far too distant delivery date. Their search algorithms suck, plain and simple. Save yourself the headache and stress.

Mizumo sells Mitsuboshi timing belt kits on fleabay that include Aisin tensioners. Check the tensioner for hydraulic fluid loss around the lip seal on top of tensioner. Always a good idea to change belt, idlers & tensioner while there. Cheap insurance against bent valves! Save your money and just buy ATF Dexron/Mercon cheap at a local store like North 40 in 2 gal jugs. Do a flush by draining the fluid then refilling, drive for 100 miles then drain & refill again. Do this 3 times. Don't take it out of Park until you're sure it's refilled to cold low mark while idling. Get yourself 3 one gallon milk or juice jugs, cleaned and dried out. Pour the first draining into one jug to gauge how much to put into the second jug for refilling the trans before starting the engine to check oil level cold. Saves a lot of time filling, checking level, etc when flushing the trans. Any additive that causes seals to swell is a bad idea.

Search the Eastwood website for how to videos on prep & paint plus other info. https://www.eastwood.com/garage/ They should also have metalprep solution for bare metal. Check your VIN plate for a paint code or some other sticker with that code for color match. Take that code to a local auto body supply for mixing a quart if that's all you need. Learn by doing.

In the 70's we used Alumalead or Tigerhair fillers for that sort of rust repairs. Those fillers are long gone now but Eastwood does market some similar fillers for rusted panels, but it's all in the prep beforehand to make it last. Back up the larger holes with some fiberglass cloth & resin if needed to hold the filler, if you can get to it. Again, it's all in the prep just like painting. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-contour-alum-repair-compound-25-3-oz.html https://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-2-1-lb.html

I've read on an OB forum where that belt guard connecting the PS inlet to alt bracket moves as engine is loaded causing the PS inlet o-rings to move enough to suck air. Like nvu said, replace those o-rings to start with, replace both PS reservoir hoses. Put the PS inlet bolt into the belt guard first, then tighten the alt pivot bolt, making sure the alt washer is in the right place there. If that guard is at an angle then that washer is not in right place. Some people delete the belt guard. YMMV.

Makes things easier if you turn the engine over by hand until all 3 timing marks are straight up before removing the tensioner and belt. Put a axle nut on the crank pulley bolt to space it out. This was a 2004 OB and those are Aisin tensioner and water pump in this pic.

Thanks Numbchux. I see the same destination code on my neighbor's 2004 Calif OB. Helps to know which cars to not buy up here in MT.

Didn't think of it before but there's also Hobby Lobby stores https://www.yellowpages.com/new-stanton-pa/hobby-lobby-hours Figures your valve would be disintegrating, next time.

Did you even try to get the hose nub out of the hose so it could be re-attached to the valve? It appears to me that you misunderstood the repair we suggested. Unless that poly tube is same OD as the ID of the hose(?)

According to your VIN plate you have an federal EJ253 engine, not an EJ259 california engine.

Looks like the plastic binder qualities have cooked off from engine heat. IF you thread for a fitting go with a straight thread to prevent further cracking, not tapered like pipe thread. There may not be enough wall thickness to tap a hole so maybe find some brass hobby tubing at the Ace hardware to fit inside the hole snugly and plastic cement to glue it together.

I don't HAVE to be happy with the extra cats and O2s, but my neighbor does. It was his choice to buy this boat(a hole in the water into which you pour your money). He didn't have anyone to advise him against it. He bought it from a couple who moved from Calif to Montana. I think they were trying to unload the the boat. They knew it had high mileage problems. I told him that if he didn't change the oil & filter at 3000 miles I would never touch it again. That would be at 250K miles. Oh, yeah. He misstated the mileage on the odometer. He said 140K where it actually was 246K miles. Didn't find that out until battery was connected again. It does run well now with good power and mileage appears to be good, which was his major concern(?!?)

About 250 miles after getting this OB running, alternator belt squeal made itself known at engine startup and beginning of turns. Found that the PS pump elbow o-rings had hardened allowing air to be sucked in. Found metric o-rings of 13mm ID x 1.5mm CS at my local Ace Hardware for $0.65 each! Added a very small bead of Loctite 517 flange sealant to face of elbow just above top o-ring groove to make sure no air gets in. No more squeal! Found that driver side crankcase breather hose connector on H4 airbox had cracked. Tried JB quickweld but that didn't hold. 30 M1 carbine brass is just right OD to fit inside this plastic nub and GOOP plastic weld bonds well with airbox. Saved a trip to find a replacement H4 California only airbox!

Top view of ej259 compared to DNJ715 pistons. EJ259 piston has flat top around intake eyebrows(L) and dish on exhaust side(R). Exhaust "eyebrows" appear to further out to accommodate variable valve timing(?) heads 2006-2011. From what was found about these 2004-5 ej259 engines for California AND NY, this was an early attempt SULEV using non-AVLS P25 and Z25P heads. Ej259 piston on left with piston pin connecting it to DNJ715 decked 0.3 mm piston. That's 0.3 mm below block deck. Here you can see the exhaust valves hit marks on #1 piston crown. As the timing belt continued to stretch, and skip cog teeth, the hit marks moved outward until engine finally had no compression to run. Here you can see that the pistons are slightly below the block deck.

Since then, engine is complete and installed. Ran into problems at 280 miles with code P0157, bank 2 sensor 2 O2. O2 sensor was un-burned fuel fouled with soot. Soot was coming out the tailpipe too. #2 cyl plug wire was initially way out of spec at 47k ohms vs other 3 wires at 10-11k ohms. After throwing the code it read nearly 37 Meg! Replaced the offending plug wire with a new one from an RA closeout set and the O2 with a Denso 234-4446 sensor. That closeout set wasn't the best deal at $11.51. 3 wires at 47k & only one at 11k ohms. Only needed to match all 4 wire resistances to make things right. Re-adjusted all valves as well. Details of the build. Plastigauged the crank main & rod brgs: .0015" clearance on all 5 mains, .001 clearance on all 4 rods. Found a reman LH cyl head on fleabay for $380 but had to pay a core charge too The seller says this in fine print in the description, BUT, doesn't mention how much! $180! Had RH cyl head resurfaced & lapped in new valves. 642 head gaskets with new OEM head bolts. After seeing how many other "shortcuts" the previous owner had done I really didn't trust the head bolts, oil pump, water pump, etc. Crank condition before(printed pic with new rod brgs) And after polishing Rod journal sizes 2.046". These dimensions were checked with a Starrett No 436 2 to 3 inch mike. Mike was checked for accuracy with gage blocks. Main journal sizes 2.362" Barrel stove heating and loving pesky treat begger Blue. More to follow. Had to do searches at another forum to get some answers about ej259 engine specifics and problems.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252846228387?epid=603196425&itmmeta=01HSB670PVVCZXJVBSKKEA3PAD&hash=item3adecf43a3:g:gBUAAOSwTSxkLZeF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4NKeD3UwuBqPJAqm%2BaI8jrZahuIurkzkjCAP%2FQYuObVpZVEqzV%2FMY4GFGFULGvpraxI%2BnjKCaUBHNPfyDSA3LjbhAHdZXIPOc9FA4OCc0N6WWpA6VBTS%2F67%2FA7EqvkMFvWI4or%2FT6faebVgFXYkSMTEHsrqpfaifZOeqIWw0f3MzcxEM7dJQ3TXOjXadfkbMj8OSnrHcQlNiJM3ifprk5gKCxQj8NZfAZxUq%2Fq4cJJY6qlFov78846JvPWNQgADjQn7lknbtGM5ce8BLtu4OC2irZsdKPOgGwhB7NvM0qnmr|tkp%3ABFBM3Iuc5spj

Found a lot of things damaged during tear down. Timing belt was stretched & cracked. TB tensioner was leaking fluid. Both cyl heads had bent exhaust valves - timing marks hadn't been lined up correctly to fudge the stretched belt problem I suppose. All pistons had carboned up oil control rings and stuck 2nd rings. #4 piston skirt was collapsed by .002" and badly scored. #4 rod brg had spalled. All main brgs were badly speckled from dirty oil. Driver side cam had welded metal to center aluminum cam journal ruining both head and cam. This caused by lack of oil AND the guy kept driving with valve and piston hitting, probably flexing the cam beyond normal. A real mess. This is your engine. This is your engine on unchanged oil. ANY QUESTIONS? https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6250/7ZFYjA.jpg

Check with this seller for silicone boots from Empi. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185183439619

Is it that the grease in the boot gets that stiff that the boot splits when you start driving? Would it be too much to build a wood skid with styrofoam & cardboard on top to slide under the car to help keep the heat of your block heater under the car? Just something that you can stand up out of the way when not needed for the rest of the year.

Gone are the days of BAP-Geon auto parts stores. Beck-Arnley catalog https://www.beckarnley.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?type[value]=2&type[label]=Light Duty&year[value]=1996&year[label]=1996&make[value]=13&make[label]=Subaru&model[value]=64&model[label]=Legacy I seem to recall that the CV boot B-A part numbers beginning with 2xx-xxx were silicone. Maybe search fleabay for those(?) Dorman markets silicone cv boots. Pricey at $50 each though.

The prank aspect occurred to me too Bennie. Worse yet is the jokester who walks off with your hardware in their toolkit. Did the OP replace a ball joint while at it? We don't know, yet. BUT, sometimes there's a new spare bolt with nut included in ball joint kits.

Lower control arm inner pivot bolt? Can't recall at the moment if stock pivot bolt is 10 mm or 12 mm shank diameter. Strut knuckle bolt maybe?