czny

If you're lucky, there may still be a timing decal on the underside of the hood, driver's side nearer the front lip of the hood, spelling out the timing & the green connectors. My 87 GL has a lot of blow by oil getting into the IACV on the throttle body. It got stuck at 1900 RPM one day until I sprayed some wd-40 down into the valve to dissolve the excess oil. After that, it would come down to about 1100 then drop down to about 7-800 slowly, which is what it's supposed to do. My guess is that it hydro-locked with oil. I'm thinking of putting some chore girl pad in each L&R valve cover breather hose to cut down on oil mist getting into the the TBI intake boot.

And, most of the old threads here on USMB lost all pics thru fotosuckit or changes in forum hosting service changes. PM Crazyeights to see if he still has some pics & such for 5 MT d/r transmissions.

Here's some reading for you before you dive in to that "spare". https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/95638-411-awd-dual-range-in-legacy/page/2/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/100318-ej-dr-tranny-s-from-nz-ive-read-many-recent-threads-want-newest-info/ Can't recall which long gone member had a complete tear down description, but I think el freddo might know. Gloyale did some, el freddo did some.

Sounds like one of the forks is out of place and gear synchro cogs are hitting as you turn it. Time to open it up, unless you can return it still.

92.50 mm, either 2.0mm 1st & 2nd or 1.2mm 1st & 2nd rings, depending on engine/piston. https://hastingspistonrings.com/catalogs-cross-reference/ https://hastingspistonrings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/asian-catalog-americas.pdf https://www.ebay.com/itm/187161728886?fits=Make%3ASubaru&_skw=subaru+92.50+mm+EA81+piston+rings&itmmeta=01JTH36YHWEVD0QXGV0YXQQ7AS&hash=item2b93b55776:g:bS0AAeSw-8loBnk~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ds6hQQs5C0Aavw5a6pUKCItZ201Ll3mNujqNg%2FsDD%2FLkBJ7WFKlwnHz4MCZCGppX%2FDPCDO2CTW%2Fvzc4HYFSx3w9SyT4GZCR6X%2BQAOqWhGGlpjyupNBUSt2bDQiHwVVQrWC8j3PomzHL%2FC3cd7lS0b6r1WQN%2BzytOPdLZcBBAbGI79artDEqCIFjPgS20GvkOHTQBPMLEpKJg8wrV0ut6%2FgSomiZDBl%2BETktnc2BjmLNBg0pz0GA6%2FPT4uRkWL1yd3ExzklURJ2K4Rak9MQpInT|tkp%3ABk9SR47pm6PUZQ Contact seller importengineparts on fleabay for NPR rings. YMMV

Superpro bushings

The heater & a/c control has 2 screws under the buttons - one under top button, one under bottom button. You can reach the button rims with your nails to pull them off if ones next to them are pushed in/on. Be gentle with the screws when putting it all back together. The plasticizer in these plastic parts has cooked off with age making things brittle. Merry Christmas!

Been a really long time since this thread was updated. Had my share of local trouble with attempted theft and damages. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186359-beware-of-mevotech-parts/ Decided to go with KYB 2wd struts(new old stock) and Lesjofors '94 Kia Sephia front springs(4044208 on RA), new KYB strut mounts(SM5364, IF you can find 'em). New KYB 4wd rear shocks with better looking, less rusty springs. Rear cross member with gaps in mounts filled with urethane. Superpro front strut rod bushings(SPF2534K). Superpro new moustache bar bushings(same as rear diff mount bushing). Rides much better without all the bounciness on highways. Combination of Sachs 4wd struts with those Lesjofors springs, they're about .040" thicker than stock, will get you another inch of lift in front. Combination of those and 2wd rear KYB shocks + stock rear springs OR 4wd rear shocks with Honda Accord front springs, Lesjofors 4135713, may ride even front to rear. Just a suggestion. KYB 2wd strut, Lesjofors spring, KYB mount, SJR 4" lift. For $86 shipped this McPherson spring compressor was worth it. MUCH safer to work around than those hook compressors that tend to slip and always at the wrong time. spring compressor Be sure to lube the threads and round part with gear oil.

My guess for that crack is that when the centers were formed, the stress from the deep backspacing puts extra leverage on the center. The original Scorpion wheels have spokes welded to the wheel centerline. The copies are built like a bowl with the edge of the bowl on the wheel centerline. The large "D" shaped holes add twisting around the center as the car rolls. Bad design. That is why I keep pushing the notion to get used 6 lug wheels and drill 2 holes for 4 bolt 4 x 140 pattern. 6 x 5.5 inch pattern is 6 x 139.7mm which is close enough. You'd be money ahead. el_freddo can't do this in Australia. We can if its done right. The new holes must be countersunk to match the lug nuts.

Another option for steel wheels to drill for 4 bolt pattern are 1991 Toyota 4X4 PU which have a flat center. Search the self serve yards in Spokane. then you could go to 205/70R15 radial M+S tires. Any flat center 6 lug with large center hole will do it for you too. Mazda B2200, Ford Courier, Chevy LUV, New 91 Toyota 4x4 wheels

You could have it TIG welded after blasting off the powder coat, BUT, to be sure there aren't any stress risers after welding it should be shotpeened., That crack has been working for quite awhile. Ask Bennie to put the word out for wheels, maybe(?)

Have that scorpion wheel abrasive blasted to remove powder coat, then have all weld beads TIG welded. If there's one crack there could be more developing. Then new powder coat, perhaps all of them(?)

Always wondered if it was that Subaru production kept using the drum brake wheels until ea81 production really got going by mounting only the solid rotor front disc brakes. In other words, lesser curve spokes until advent of vented front discs then sharper curve spokes. Do a search for the 6 lug conversions on Goggle OP. You might find more there in early discussions.

There are old threads on USMB for this problem. Early drum brake wheels just don't have the proper backspacing curve for disc brakes. Obviously. Hope you didn't pay much for those fb "bargains". Peugeot 505 wheels have the same bolt pattern as Subaru EA cars - 4x140 mm. New Peugot 505 alloys OR, you could do a jy search for Mazda B2200 six lug wheels, drill 2 more holes and open up the center hole with a die grinder & burr to fit. Both the Peugeot and Mazda wheels are 14 x 6 inch. AND, have the backspacing for disc brakes. Much easier to find tires for.

And here are the DEA/Marmon strut mounts, definitely made in CHINA! No stamping in outer shell, just painted PNs. Don't have any pics or pother info on Moog, Monroe or other mounts. Did finally buy a better spring compressor - it was needed for this. Will post up some pics later.

Yes, it was scary getting home. Glad it wasn't deep winter with black ice! This is how those mounts were packed, and here is the 6302RS ball brg. SMQ brand(Some Mediocre Quality, Suck My Quotas, Still making me Queazy???) Noticed that the recent Mevotech mounts I returned were stamped with the part number & TAIWAN in bold letters on the outer shell. KYBs had TAIWAN stamped in outer shells too, but the ball brgs are NSK Japan with single seal on bottom. KYB strut mount top view of stamping. OEM mounts like this one on an old 92 Loyale also have the open ball brgs but add a plug in mount top. If you every find a listing for genuine KYB SM5364 strut mounts, buy them quick 'cause they were discontinued a few years ago and won't be back! BUT, don't fall for some fake listing Like I did late one night!

Got my refund today but was unable to report this false listing on Ebay. Seems Ebay condones substituting one brand for another without sellers updating their descriptions! I'll be posting some pics of KYB, Mevotech and DEA/Marmont strut mounts for EA cars so the next buyer doesn't get stung.

I keep a bad ebay seller list on my laptop. All kinds of past misery in that list. That thread oughta be put in the off topic section.

I know of one criminal meth head and his moll who may have had something to do with this. Getting real tired of waiting for john law or karma to catch up with them... Mevotech boxes state made in Taiwan, but, those I had on hand may have been bulk China made. RA warehouses don't always ship in original boxes. Mine on the shelf were in bags with a long numbered label only. Buyer beware. BTW, don't buy from OEM Part Haus(oemparthaus) on fleabay. They listed KYB SM5364 strut mounts but shipped Mevotech ones. I am still waiting for my refund after shipping them back. Another lazy ebay seller who won't change their listings I suspect. Typical BAIT & SWITCH!

Just last month I had to replace my front springs, struts, ball joints and strut mounts. Just happened to have 2 Mevotech strut mounts on the shelf from Sept 2023. Was driving on 55_ mph highway here and the RH mount failed completely, losing control of the steering in LH turns and making a loud knocking noise throughout the car. None of this would've been done but some a-hole stole my 87 GL, czny, from where it was parked on my property, went on a "joy ride" thru my and my north neighbor's property, then left it kinda parked in another spot on my property after breaking L strut spring, ruining front whl brgs, front cv boot, ball joints, rear Sach shocks, rear springs, rear cross member mounts and more. They had hit the front skid plate & tires hard enough to compress the unibody sheet metal back enough to push the engine & trans back, taking all end play out of the driveshaft! It still drives after repairs, but trans brgs are noisier now. Things will have to wait until after winter to R&R the engine & trans package to correct this. I have a spare d/r 5mt trans. Just when I thought things were driveable, a strut mount breaks! Found 2, 2 only, KYB mounts on RA so those are going on in next couple days so at least I have wheels for the winter. Mevotech strut order You'd think someone here in rural Montana would realize they could get shot for stealing a car, but then there's meth heads around here too. Smoked out meth heads whose moral compass came out of a box of Crackerjacks.

Dirt or brake dust between caliper piston and seal. Small burrs on flared line ends(polish ends with fine scotchbrite in circular motion). Rearmost master cyl piston seal sucking air thru vac booster. Cracked line inside the unibody from a accident - a real stretch if this. Bad crimp on flex line end. Damaged or missing copper washer at caliper banjo bolt. That's all I got. Good luck and so long.

Sometimes, leaks are air only. Air molecules are smaller than brake fluid ones.

When you deleted the hill holder, did you use a 10x1.00 mm inverted flare union or a bubble flare one? Flared ends on Subies are inverted flare, like Toyota. You could be sucking air at the union(?)

Did you look up the ABS brake bleed procedure, IF that Forester has ABS? https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/abs-pump-activation-bleeding-brakes.502561/