czny

How did you install these 7207s, face to face with thrust sides pointed into the hubs?

Must've been fuel varnish from sitting so long.

Is the throttle return spring intact & in its place? Something allowing the throttle butterfly to move freely?

" I was able to get the old axle off the diff very easily, and using the BFH and wooden block method I got the stub shaft driven back out through the hub. " Have a set of these & they are better quality than most available locally: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Drive-E10-Deep-E-Torx-Socket-Trident-T120610-Free-P-P/122072255192?epid=11017011463&hash=item1c6c12cad8:g:2TAAAOSwARZXo2We

"Still have to cut the remains of the bearings off. I am a bit stuck, pardon the pun, on now removing the stub shaft from the axle since after 30 years together they seem well accustomed to staying that way. Any ideas? I have thought about cutting the axle where it bells out but I don't know if that would give me the access I want to then press the stub out? " https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/?tab=comments#comment-1398686

Agreed. Stopping combustion gasses is the job of the fire ring on the head gasket. Once that is compromised its all downhill.

PM sent. Shame that had to happen. Everything was shaping up so well for you.

Why didn't you change both head gaskets at the same time if you suspected one already? While I agree that most coolant stop leak additives are garbage that cause more trouble, these are generally acceptable for sealing tiny leaks that may occur after an engine overhaul or head job: https://www.amazon.com/Bars-Leaks-HDC-Radiator-Tablet/dp/B000KKND3Q/ref=asc_df_B000KKND3Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312181776237&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1759667204531667135&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031106&hvtargid=pla-569057243725&psc=1 This stuff works best if coolant system is filled with water only for first few miles. Then drain system and add coolant mix. The additive pellets are generally believed to be ground ginger. Had a possum get into my garage a few yrs ago wreaking havoc and 3 packages of the stuff were eaten so it must be tasty ginger. Not the package, just the pellets

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47562-fix-for-worn-and-sloppy-shifter-linkage/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/86472-short-shifter-donepicture-added/ Somewhere there's a pic of how to shorten the shift, adding to lower rod length below the pivot.

Yes it is a 5 spd dual range, but, oil dipstick & speedo drive are missing. Because of the grassy debris on it & in it(stuff in speedo drive hole), I'd be a little skeptical about condition of gearsets inside. Better drain the oil into a clean pan & see what comes out.

Check out MJM National for terminals. May have something close to what you need: http://www.ebaystores.com/MJM-National-Inc/Metri-pack-480-/_i.html?_fsub=4139725013&_sid=3624523&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 If not check out Newark, Mouser or Allied Electronics, just be aware they have minimum orders.

Everything looks great! Get some wiring harness spiral wrap at Homeless Despot or auto parts store & wrap those brake lines to protect against flying rocks.

I have the SJR 4 inch lift picture instructions on DVD. These were for the older all folded steel lift components but should be what you need. I'll make you a copy & send it if you PM your mailing address.

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-A0910AS100-Engine-Block-Heater/dp/B00IGZQU1E Get the 35*F porcelain t-stat adapter there too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006U2HD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Agreed. Since dropping front crossmember another 1" on my 4" SJR lift I've had zero front axle problems with torn boots or hitting axles. Moving OEM axle small end boot clamps to position closer to inner DOJ helps too. YMMV.

That may be true for 2wd rear shocks on a 4wd GL, but my experience with 2wd front struts on my 87 4wd GL with correct 4wd rear shocks was to lower the front end. Already made that mistake a few yrs ago. Wasn't paying close enough attention to the 'fine detail' in RockAuto descriptions when ordering KYB front struts. That was just before KYB 4wd struts dried up. Chose to order Monroe 4wd front struts when I added 4 inch SJR lift.

Subarule might try contacting a warehouse like Hanson Distributing: http://www.hansondistributing.com/ Or another like it nearer to home in WA state. Find an independent parts store to do business with, not an O'Reilly's or other big box store. Someone with a paper catalog - not an e-catalog. Hanson supplied for a few of the independent auto parts stores in SoCal that I've dealt with for many years. Ernie's Auto Parts, which used to be in another location, is within the same warehouse, but since the experienced senior parts manager retired it's just not the same.

Is this the seller on Ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Subaru-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-New-Pair-Front-KYB-Excel-G-Shocks-Struts/323681662310?hash=item4b5cee3566:g:HikAAOSwYwZcWWU~ Another seller, bapperformance(wonder if seller 'borrowed' from old BAP-Geon name): https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233022/163577113805?epid=75415354&hash=item2615f4accd:g:RlwAAOSwOzBcfF6p https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233023/173820709585?epid=74420540&hash=item2878858ad1:g:SJYAAOSwyQJcfF3U If so, these are for 2wd cars, not 4wd. You'll lose ride height with 2wd struts. Search for Monroe or Sachs front struts.

Unfortunately, no longer listed in current online KYB catalog. Not even the 2wd struts for 1986 GL. https://showmetheparts.com/kyb/

Take joint pin out from diff end & see if you can pull the joint off the diff stub. You'll have to collapse the drive axle some & it may take some hammering on the joint cup to free it. Don't worry about hammering on the joint cups. Those cups are really tough steel alloy. They have to be to survive all the action going on while propelling the car. Once you get axle off at diff end, remove boot cover, band clamps & boot then fish for wire retainer at top edge of cup. Pry it loose with small screwdriver then innards with come free. Tapping the stub out won't take too much hammering if you use that square head sledge but protect the stub end with a block of wood.

Found a way to save these hard-to-come-by pieces from death by rust. Start by removing rear axle & seized stub axle as a unit from rear trailing arm. Hammer out with block of wood & BFH or dead blow hammer Or my favorite though some will object - a ball peen in stub end & 4 lb drilling hammer. Next remove axle shaft from inner CV/DOJ cup. DOJs are easiest. Boot, outer lock ring, then pull everything else as one. Swab out old grease with rags. CVs require a few more steps, like rocking inner race & cage to one side, removing 2 balls, back the other way then last 2. Then work cage & inner race out - they do come out. Notice hammer marks on CV. Futile attempts to get the bugger off the stub. Note difference in how cup plugs are installed. CVs - plug hollow side up. DOJs - hollow side down. Use an awl to punch a starter hole in cup plug then screw a 1 inch or longer #10 sheet metal screw in which will lift the plug out of the recess. This exposes the end of stub axle. You might have to give seized parts a good soaking overnight with Kroil or other penetrating spray before press work. Install bearing clamshell around DOJ/CV just above dust shield, then place this in between heavy duty plates in 20 ton press. Use 4-6 inch piece of 5/8-3/4 inch round stock with ends squared up on end of stub to press with. Not too long or it may become angled & then bend easily. Plug for swagoffroad products: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-MACHINED-ARBOR-PRESS-PLATES-PAIR_p_7.html Pump press until either stub starts moving or feels like all 20T pressure is there. Rap on outside of cup a little with hammer to jar it. Helps align things for removal. Relieve pressure & turn cup some. Rinse & repeat until stub comes loose. Did this for alexbuoy & one of his took everything my old Enco press could muster. Finally came loose with a loud bang causing everything on press to jump. Bead blast or wire brush stubs. Hammer holes in cup plugs flat then soft solder holes shut. Clean up flux on plugs. Install with Permatex No. 1 or similar. Remember DOJs - cup plugs down. CVs - cup plugs up Apply anti-seize to splines after re-installing in rear arms. Both ends. Don't forget the rubber washers on short ends of stub axles. Hope this helps save a few axles & stubs in the future. Parts for EA cars are getting scarce.

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168698-rear-wheel-bearings-ring-nut-tool/ IF the outer CV cup is stuck on the stub axle, there is a way to get it loose without destroying the CV. You'll need access to a 20 ton hydraulic press with stout press plates & a large clamshell bearing separator. Wait a bit & I'll get a 'How-To" post up. Here ya go... https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168762-saving-rust-seized-ea-rear-axle-stubs-cvs/

Disconnect your MAF, clean contacts like I meantioned above then gently bend open side of each contact a little with toothpick or other small pointed tool. Idea is to make sure all contacts are clean & tight. Do the same with TPS connector. Do not clean MAF with MAF cleaner, it may cause more problems. Just inspect it for broken sensors or corrosion. Clean IAC valve connector well. Pull hose off IAC valve & spray some Seafoam in open tube of valve. Start engine & give it a few revs. Check & clean your engine main connector(s) at DS near DS valve cover. Same thing as others - no green corrosion, scale or dirt. Your ECM is working with a meager 5V at best from these sensors, some much less. Any corrosion will add resistance causing false sensor readings.

Yes, coolant will drain from there. Drain some coolant from radiator, catching it in a pan. Use Permatex No.2 non-hardening sealant on the threads. There should be a sealing washer on the old one so just clean that & manifold surface well, flip washer over, add sealant & install. If you still have running problems, get a can of contact cleaner, disconnect all sensors & clean the connectors well. I've had trouble with road salt & water causing poor connection on my 87 GL since driving thru PNW. You could be chasing your tail throwing parts at it if there are poor connections. Ask me how I know....

Looked at his webpage 2 days ago & it appears he still is making adapters, just don't know if its Subaru EJ-Toyota W56 trans adapters. https://www.billsautofab.com/ Contact him?