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Did you get your money back on that first "correct" compressor? Something wrong with the one I sent you Subarule? It felt like it would make pressure to me turning it over by hand.

Quick search didn't find the same ones I used. But maybe on Amazon or fleabay you might. Here's one result on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-008284811-FF75-Series-Driving-Fog-Light/231668201798 Gotta keep those mounted close in to body if under front bumper,......... PM sent.

Don't know if it makes any difference but when rebooting axles I make a mark on outside of outer CVJ where one of 6 balls are then align inner DOJ race same way before finishing assembly. Unless the axle shaft is too stubborn, I remove them from outer CVJ before clean & pack with fresh grease. Slip axle shaft into 4 ft of 1 1/4 inch pipe with end of pipe firmly against inner race then slam other end of pipe against solid ground or thick plywood. Just make sure c-ring on axle is OK before putting axle shaft back in. And you can go in too far if aggressive. Axles seem to run smother this way, at least they do for me.

Tucson AZ trip for weekend. Spent time with sister & brother in law from Friday to Tuesday early AM. Went to Kartchner Caverns AZ state park. We did tour of "Throne room" & "Rotunda room" - almost 100% humidity & approx 72*F. No cellphone nor cameras are allowed in caves. No multiple layers of clothing are needed to keep warm in that. They'll be changing over to LED lighting to help keep heat down. Bats were in another chamber. Neat stuff. https://azstateparks.com/kartchner/ Tried out 180W curved light bar in eastern Tucson. Outstanding. Rear 27W work light is just enough too.

That 'no it won't' wasn't directed at you jono. I was typing out while you were posting. It was purely timing coincidence.

Could be blower resistor triple in bottom of heater/AC blower on R side. Check bottom 2 15 amp fuses on LH side of fuse panel too. However, if its like my GL some contacts in fan speed switch have fried.

Nice roadside tech there jono.

No it won't. That 25 spline is for turbo EA82s like GL-10s. You need to find used OEM 95AC-23 axles & reboot them. Look for the 3 bands at outer end of axle shaft when hunting. And ribbed inner joint. Search PNW pick-n-pull yards for 86 to 94 NA GL or Loyale axles. There's a PNP in Salt Lake City if you're still in Utah. http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx http://row52.com/home My 87 GL wagon is a 5mt part time 4wd d/r like yours.

On my spfi 87 wagon, one by steering shaft below booster is evap, other two above to booster are supply & return.

@DaveT: You mean NGK? https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=20678

For wires, United Motor Products 9427: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1110849&cc=1268478&jsn=2

If these videos are any help then good:

Been awhile since I had posted in this thread. Started another image hosting acct. to repair damage done by greedy Photobucket. Everywhere you go in internet auto land you'll see their wreckage. Added 32 inch light bar to roof because deer & elk happen fast in NW MT at night. Mounted light bar to roof with rivnuts & 1.5 inch aluminum angle to stiffen roof & add support for light bar. Light bar is advertised as 180 W & when on it drops charging voltage only 0.2V, so not too worried. Added a single round 27 W LED light to roof rack in rear for work light. Sand blasted aluminum angle & painted with OD green self etching primer. Allen bolt is 8 mm & philips screws are 1/4-20 for lots of shear in thin roof metal. Sealed to roof with Dow Corning 832 silicone adhesive sealant. Steel rivnuts set into roof beforehand, of course. Added spare tire mount, high lift jack & shovel mounts to roof rack too.

Diaphragm clutches sometimes crack radially - crack from center to outer edge of diaphragm spring. Over time the friction disc wears unevenly causing inconsistent disengagement - one time the clutch cover plate lines up parallel with friction disc & flywheel, another time it doesn't. A hit or miss alignment. Some import clutch mfrs are notorious for short lived clutches. Their diaphragm springs are not QC'ed well.

Well then early Porsche 356 engines are ridiculous too........ I seem to recall that oversize oil pumps were available for VW cases just to cure case leakage problems. I lost count of how many VW engines I built in the 70s & 80s. Lost a few gray cells too Of course air cooled VW engines had & still have a huge following so aftermarket products are/were in abundance. https://www.jbugs.com/product/5002.html Could a custom bridge puller be used ?

If removal of oil pump is anything like VW type1-3 engines, it really helps to loosen the case bolts near oil pump before removal. EA engines would be the same I think. Case halves pinch around body of the oil pump.

It would help us all if we knew what model '87', carb or spfi, EA81 or EA82 engine to understand what wiring harness it has.

Look into the ignition switch as well. Recently had the ignition switch stakes loosen causing switch to come apart slightly, separating start-run contacts inside switch. Symptoms were exactly what you described - fully charged battery, jump start battery, checked starter by jumping solenoid to pos term & engine turns over. But won't start with ign sw. Only a few clicks then nothing. And yes battery terminals/cables were clean. Gently hold it together with shop rag in a vise & punch the 3 stakes a little tighter. Operative word here is gently to not crack the plastic insulator. Easy peasy. Ignition switch is easy to get to. Only held into column lock assy with one screw. You can see how the brown switch insulator has moved away from the shell in this photo.

Been thinking about adding one to my 87 GL wagon but like all things sales on fleabay, the sales claims are fantastical. Stated another way they are fantasy to 'dazzle' the buyer. Pun intended. Here's a discussion link: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2615725

Voltmeter in my 87GL has been 'off' for some time now & I know for a fact that the Nissan Maxima alternator is putting out between 13.9 & 14.5 V, depending on state of battery charge when engine starts. Decided to use the space occupied by a clock that wouldn't keep time for something useful. Found a digital surface mount voltmeter made by Stinger products & a cheap USB port online. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-Pro-SVMB-12v-Voltmeter-3-Digit-Blue-LED-Voltage-Meter-Display-Gauge/142134595191?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Made a plate of 11 ga aluminum, painted with self-etching OD green primer & mounted to dash pad with 6-32 brass nut inserts & SS screws, coarse thread wood nut insert found at Ace hardware stores. May as well had an idiot light as this useless inaccurate voltmeter. Closeup of USB charging ports & voltmeter. Hard to capture voltmeter fluorescent display without flickering. Didn't quite get the plate in square but for now its OK. Have another dash pad in better condition that I'll use when I EJ it & add A/C. Used the old pigtail from digital clock to connect these into system. Ideal as there's all the circuits I need in clock branch of wiring - ignition on, battery hot & ground.

This may help with dizzy wiring

One edge of the belt could be slightly shorter than the other forming a taper. Might've been out of alignment when ends were bonded. "Might" just stretch to shape later. Mi(gh)te is a small irritating insect. ;^) +1 for what Dave T said.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH331-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/292661797038?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=693046037&hash=item442400a0ae:g:rDoAAOSwCpRbH4M4 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Standard-TH333-fits-88-91-Isuzu-Trooper-2-6L-L4/292661797201?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=1623083097&hash=item442400a151:g:vVoAAOSwJqNbJOjO https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-BECK-ARNLEY-158-0505-fits-88-92-Isuzu-Pickup-2-6L-L4/283073257056?fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AIsuzu|Model%3ATrooper|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.6L&epid=76463845&hash=item41e87b1e60:g:aJ0AAOSw7m9bG2IT

Ya know, when stock on items RockAuto dwindles down because they are out of production, RockAuto jacks up the prices. I have seen it happen recently with Subaru efi fuel pumps. Bet you can find those Standard Prod or other brand TPSes elsewhere for less - like I did for the Subaru distributor optical pickups. Products may be plain boxed or unboxed bulk, but they are same stuff to the core.

Have you looked at some of late 80s Isuzu models like i-Mark or Trooper for TPSes? 1989 2.6L L4 Trooper https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1002856&cc=1177310&jsn=415 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/isuzu,1989,trooper,2.6l+l4,1177310,fuel+&+air,throttle+position+sensor+(tps),5136