czny

IIRC there were 2 designs of rear roller brg for 4wd Subies. One 3 piece: outer race; 2 inner cones with inner race touching when assembled. Other was 4 piece(?) with spacer in between brg cones. If mach shop didn't clean trailing arm housing thoroughly that brg might not be seated fully in. Not likely but CV end of stub axle has a seal washer that goes on before the CV. Inside diameter of that washer is smaller than the brg journals of the stub axle so unless mach shop used a HD press to force it, not likely. Edit: if this has drum rear brakes, lip of drum might be dragging on backing plate if brg wasn't seated - or very close to it. If disc brk, rotor wouldn't be centered in caliper pad bracket.

trailing arm & stub axle: https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1990/SUBARU/Loyale/RS%20Turbo?siteid=216122&vehicleid=45480&diagram=7525380 No spacers or slingers to put in wrong order - so maybe mach shop put a spacer in that doesn't belong there(???)

They are a sealed brg like on water pumps. Chances are the grease had dried out which then took out the balls then the cage then the seal. All it would take is one ball seizing to start the snowball rolling. Easier to get a reman pump than find a kit for them.

Just a note: this tool is currently unavailable thru Amazon but others list it as drop ship. OTC 7535 This is what it really looks like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OTC-7535-Subaru-Front-Axle-Shaft-Installer-Tool-/142541775573 https://www.jbtoolsales.com/otc-tools-equipment-7535-subaru-front-axle-shaft-installer/ I have one & its the only way I'll re-install axles in front anymore.

No, still live in Azusa CA but travel to my sister's place in E Tucson. Usually stop in Tonopah for lunch.

"czny - you might investigate axles from HERI, they have more extension." Thanks 1 Lucky Texan, but axle angles are better, ride is better, ride height is even ft & rr now. Will try 1/8 inch toe out like has worked for me in the past. I get a little wandering at 0 toe in. My same axles made it to Tucson & back before the 1 inch drop mod so they'll likely live longer now.

Leave that lever all the way back for 2wd on the street. No 4wd Hi or Lo lights in dash cluster should be lit.

Could the little rubber mount for shift lever plates behind trans be broken? Not allowing 4wd lever to go all the way back into 2wd? 88wagon, the mount is bolted to top of driveshaft tunnel underneath just behind the trans. Make sure none of the linkages are loose, bushings all tight too.

Already moved inner axle boot clamps in for 4 inch lift & while this helped prolong boot life, more improvements were still needed. Found suggestions here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146933-2-lift-shredded-cvs-whats-the-solution/page-2?hl=%2Bea82+%2Blift+%2Bwith+%2Bbetter+%2Bangles&do=findComment&comment=1233972 Dropped engine & trans crossmembers 1 inch to improve front axle angles, modded intake air boot for 1 inch drop, modded skid plate for 1 inch drop, replaced PS pump & high pres hose(leaking from shaft seal), helicoiled adj ear of alternator(stripping), replaced upper & lower radiator hoses modded for 1 inch drop, reworked steering shaft coupler for 1 inch drop(longer). Replaced rad cooling fan(blades were crumbling to dust), LOF too. More yet to do: F&R brakes(rotors & pads), R&R WW motor, replace htr resistor(not all spds), change lube in trans & read diff. Its a long trip to MT & back again, so..........

Tried that a few years ago. Back then dealers carried spare parts. Recently tried again and dealer wants to take the ratchet in for repairs, but tells me these are not made anymore. Wanted to sell a fatter ratchet to me. Ever try to work in a tight spot with a fat ratchet in your hand? BOOO! Now I use palm ratchets for this - round, knurled & compact enough to twirl with two fingers. http://toolguyd.com/sk-thumbwheel-ratchet-review/

Those look like the ratchets marketed in the 70s & 80s by Proto & S-K. Good luck finding a rebuild kit for it. I can't even get ratchet internals for my "baby 3/8" Snapon that I've had since the 70's. Essentially it was a 1/4 drive ratchet body with 3/8 drive guts & great for tight spaces. Similar ratchets https://sktools.com/shop/3770-10-8-3-8-drive-flex-ratchet.html Edit: sorry turbosubarubrat, didn't check your S-K link. They are the same. And I've had that same Snapon flex-head since the 80's. Pawl & ratchet are just starting to fail now. http://www.autotoolworld.com/Stanley-Proto-34947B-38-Drive-Bent-Handle-Flex-Head-Ratchet_p_198750.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgb3OBRDNARIsAOyZbxCyplYPq4moz_KERExILgBSCADbJp2-v3zJr1s6LsoUG-FAgl4VeMoaAoe3EALw_wcB

Check out chart in center of this web page: http://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/ and https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html It is apparent that load wattage determines wire size at low voltages. P=I x E = E/R = I x I x R. P = power in watts, E = volts, I current in amps, R = resistance in ohms. Also, E = I x R to determine resistance, knowing other two values.

House hunting in Montana already...............done with Commiefornia!

Injector charts for future reference, YMMV. http://www.carburetion.com/pdfs/injectors_tbi.pdf

Looks more like a 84-86 2.5L Pontiac Fiero TBI unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1986-PONTIAC-FIERO-TBI-THROTTLE-BODY-ASSEMBLY-2-5L-4CYL-1985-84-85-86-OEM-/142480255948?hash=item212c7c2bcc:g:oRUAAOSwxh1Zl6ch&vxp=mtr Throttle position switch(TPS) looks to have been changed to a V6 or V8 one. Pontiac Fiero injector on RA: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,1985,fiero,2.5l+151cid+l4,1249039,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224 That black cube on top of the TBI to right of bore looks like a relay that isn't part of the the TBI. Like its just sitting there unmounted.

Also looks a lot like a single barrel GM TBI from a 2.5L 4 banger. Something from a 'bout 1988. Or 4 cyl Chevy S10 truck perhaps? Not from an ordinary 88-91 Chevy truck as those would be 2 BBL TBI bodies for both 6 cyl & V8. Rochester model # is on vertical surface next to throttle linkage on TBIs. GearheadEFI forum might be able to help. Can't tell you much more than that.

BK precision 2707B multimeter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-K-PRECISION-2707B-Digital-Multimeter-1000V-10A-/332207333919?epid=1217974952&hash=item4d5919a21f:g:I4oAAOSw~y9ZC-X3 I have the older model 2707A & it has always done me well for electrical & electronics.

In addition to the Eastwood tool, I have that same Imperial Brass double flaring set. I've had that Imperial set for years as well as Imperial Eastman ones for larger single flares in 45* & 37* AN. Very necessary for industrial maintenance. I use a fine mill file to square the tube end while tube is clamped, release the tube, deburr the end & then reinstall tubing for flaring. And a drop of 3-in-1 oil to prevent galling.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html

2 10-32 screws hold shield on from bottom of cross member. Shield is just galvanized sheet metal.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/164052-ea82-timing-belt-tension-tool/

Cheap to make timing belt tool for EA82s. 3 1/2 inch disc of 3/16 steel with 3/8" drive socket welded to center on one side & 4 short 5/16" hex heads bolts welded to other side.

I have some NewInBox outer CVJs that might be correct for your EA81 axles. These are German made Lobro complete with boot kits. 22 spline inner races. Contact me if interested. Anyone?

Be sure to put 2 step bends in that heat shield so air can circulate between it & the cat converter. Like a lazy Z shape. I attached mine to the cross member with 2 machine screws at the rear edge above the cat.

Ahhh....you mean the Abominable Snowman.......that was a Looney Tune. Google Tex Avery cartoon/I think I'll name him George.