AdventureSubaru

Stalling issues with no codes can sometimes be a mass air flow or MAP sensor. Worth checking

Chances are slim if it's a p0420 that it has anything to do with the cats. (Is it a p0420?) Read up on all the possible causes on this forum - much more likely to be one of those. Only saw bad cats on a subaru once and that was at 365,000 miles

Waste of time. Don't even try this swap, with this motor or any other. You need a new motor, new trans, crazy splicing to harnesses, stronger suspension, new computer.... all to avoid doing a water pump on an EJ22? You already have the best motor possible in there. A water pump is a 2 hour job. 4 on the worst day. You want months of work and thousands of dollars over a $40 water pump and 2 hours? If you want the 6 cylinder, fix your car, sell your car and buy an H6 01-04. They are coming way down in price and you wont be wasting time and $$$ I agree, you're in way over your head thinking you or your friend could tackle this. (He shied away from replacing a water pump but is going to do an H6 swap in exchange for a used motor?)

I would follow the same procedure for breaking in a completely new motor. Wont hurt the used stuff but will help the new. I seem to remember the owners manual of my wifes 2011 (with SOHC EJ25) having a break in procedure to it.

So many folks come here looking for help and advice when a motor finally goes on one of these cars. (Especially that troublesome DOHC 2.5 motor) Many are do it yourselfers but hesitate to undergo a motor swap on their own. On my last remove and reinstall, I decided to photo the process so a first timer can see what they are getting into. My first swap took me 2 days without these instructions, just figuring it out myself. My record now is 4 1/2 hours for remove and reinstall. If you've changed your own brake pads and done your own oil changes, you CAN swap an engine in one of these subarus. It's just a longer and heavier process. It will save you $$$ and teach you much about your car along the way. Use Car-part.com to find good used motors. Know for sure which motors are compatible with yours. Generally speaking 1990-1998 are the same and 2000-2004 are the same. 1999 was split between phase 1 and phase 2. Do your research. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/ (EDIT - this post will save you research time) Now you can buy that spotless gorgeous 1999 outback with blown head gaskets and do a 2.2 install yourself! Or if doing head gaskets, refer to Miles Fox's videos in addition to this guide. www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RDUnzW-JPk www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tz2Orscz72A If a DOHC 2.5 with head gasket problems I highly recommend a 2.2 swap over a 2.5 fix. The 2.2 can be bough far cheaper than fixing most 2.5s and the used 2.2 will generally outlive the fixed 2.5 by far. Here is a step by step guide on how I do it with pictures and arrows to show you what's what along the way. Tools needed: 8mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 22mm sockets and wrenches socket extensions flat and phillips screwdrivers pry bar or big screwdrivers hammer jack come along/hoist/cherry picker/power lifter friends. vice grips or pliers (Channel locks have been handy for me) The project was a 1996 Impreza Outback which received a 1995 EJ18 motor. Same process applies to all 90-04 EJ motors with very little difference. EZ30 motor swap was also nearly identical. Step 1 - Remove the battery by loosening the clamps on the two battery terminals and removing them. Loosen the battery tie downs as well and lift the whole thing out of the car. Usually these are 10mm nuts but aftermarket stuff may be different. Unclip the 3 or 4 clips on the top of the airbox. Disconnect the wiring harness to the mass air flow sensor. Loosen the hose clamp holding the intake to the throttle body. Also disconnect the 3 vac hoses going from the valve covers and block to the intake. A 4th hose goes to the idle air control valve. Pull out your intake and set it aside. Take a picture of the passenger side of the engine bay to see where these little vac lines go. There will be a few going to solenoids on the side and the vapor canister (Pictured on the front here) disconnect these. If you have a front vapor canister I like to remove it to gain more space. - 2 12mm bolts. Using a 12mm wrench, loosen the two nuts on the backside of the throttle body for the throttle and cruise control cables. Once they are loose, you can tug them forward and lift them out of the bracket. Each cable is then pulled out the side so the end can be slid sideways and removed. (If this doesn't make sense verbally, you'll see it when you get there. ) Lay the cables out of the way. 1. Remove the nut holding the cable to the alternator (12mm on most.) 2. Squeeze and lift the wiring harness from it. 1. Loosen the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket tightly. 2. loosen the tensioner bolt until the alternator can be pushed down. 3. You may have to loosen this bolt before the alternator can be pushed down. Lower the alternator until the belt can be removed. Once the belt is off, remove bolts 1 and 3. Pull the alternator and set it aside. Unplug the wiring to the AC compressor and disconnect the plastic clip for the wiring to the alternator. Lay the wiring to the side. Three 12mm bolts hold the power steering pump bracket in place. 2 are on the front of the block and one sits behind the pump on the top. Remove all 3. Two 10mm bolts hold the power steering hoses in place. Remove both. If the plug wires are over the power steering lines, pull them. Lay the power steering pump in the air box upright so it doesn't leak. Remove the AC tensioner and belt. Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the AC compressor bracket in place. Gently roll the AC compressor to the right until it lays upside down where the battery was. Disconnect the fuel lines. Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the clamps. The two pressure lines will be on tightly. I squeeze them with pliers to rotate them an brake the seal, then use a pry bar or big screwdriver to push them off the steel lines. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Loosen the hose clamp on the upper radiator hose. Pull the rad hose off the motor. Do the same for the lower rad hose. Use a pan to catch the coolant. Remove the clamps for the two heater hosed on the drivers side of the motor. Pull the hoses of and lay them aside. Disconnect the rad fan wiring at the bottom of each fan. These tabs need to be lifted by a fingernail and then pull apart. Remove the two 12mm bolts for the radiator brackets. (Only one pictured as this car was missing one).Pull the radiator with fans and hoses out. 17mm bolt to drain oil now while it's easy. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7940_zpsykwxtqqh.jpg Drop the Y pipe by removing the 4 or 6 bolts for the exhaust manifold. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7941_zpsyred5fye.jpg With the exhaust lowered you can access the 2 motor mount nuts under the subframe. Each is 14mm. One drivers side and one passenger side. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7944_zpsmnqdglhk.jpg Disconnect the engine wiring. 3 harnesses. Tabs lift and then the harnesses pull apart. Also remove the 14mm bolt between the bellhousing and motor and the nut at the bottom of the motor in front of the CV joint. (99 and newer will have a couple more bolts) http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7946_zpsarkas3lp.jpg Disconnect the starter by removing the 17mm nut on the bottom of it and the 14mm bolt at the top. Below the starter is another nut in front of the CV joint. Again 99 and newer will have a few extra trans to motor bolts. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7945_zpsvonrbmem.jpg Remove the bolt holding the front of the dogbone of the transmission. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7948_zpsqzinizwn.jpg Disconnect the ground wire if it is seperate from the starter. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7952_zpsz7ovkzc7.jpg If the car is an automatic, look on the passenger side rear of the motor. There is a rubber plug to pry off. (Often already gone if the car has had much work done.) You will use this to seperate the flex plate and torque converter. Rotate the motor clockwise using the 22mm socket on the crank pulley until you can see one of the 12mm bolts. There are 4 of them. I find it easiest to move some of the wiring and hoses in the area to clear some space. A 3/8 breaker bar seems best to get them started. Remove the bolt. Rotate the motor clockwise until you can see the next one. Remove all 4 bolts this way. READ UP ON HOW TO MAKE SURE YOUR TORQUE CONVERTER IS FULLY SEATED. If you do this right the torque converter wont move, but always check to be sure. I have some helpful tips in other threads http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7963_zpsprv3fnvy.jpg Jack up the trans to lift the motor. If it's an automatic be sure to use some plywood or 2x6 etc so you don't crinkle the trans pan and make more work for yourself. The trans pans are thin and wires get pinched. Been there. Done that. Lift until the bolts of the motor mounts clear the subframe and no higher. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7961_zpsesdabytz.jpg Set up your hoist/lift/cherry picker. Mine was made from heavy duty castor wheels and some leftover lumber. Uses a come along and climbing rope. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7964_zpsmqw81jys.jpg Seperate the engine and trans. I use a hammer and screwdriver to get it started, then a pry bar to keep sliding it forward. Make sure the torque converter stays with the trans. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa295/gyoas759/DSCN7966_zpsf17wgekq.jpg Crank it out! The motor will slide forward and can be lifted up. Take care especially with the AC hoses as you lift. Reinstall is the reverse of all this. Some helpful tips. 1. MAKE SURE THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS FULLY SEATED - Measure from the starter hole of the bellhousing to the back of the torque converter. There should be 1/8 of an inch or less between the two. (On a 2.5 anyway) The flex plate bolts actually draw the torque converter forward on the reinstall. Failure to seat it correctly will crush the pump and destroy your transmission. 2. DO THE CLUTCH - if a 5 speed now is the best time. 3. Check the oil seperator plate on the back of the motor for leakage and replace with the dealer upgrade. 4. The motor will slide into place fairly easily. Muscle it together from the front. Try not to use the bolts to draw them together. 5. Check the alignment dowels between the new motor and transmission. Make sure none are doubled up. 6. If the motor mount bolts don't just drop into place, use a large flat screwdriver and a hammer to tap them to where they belong. 7. DON'T PANIC! When you fire up your new motor expect a few cranks before the fuel lines re-pressurize. Also expect some tapping and clatter for a while (Especially on 1990-1996 motors with HLAs) Usually takes a few hours of driving for early 90s motors that have sat for a while to quiet down. That's about it! It takes a while and you'll get tired and messy, but save lots of $$$$ over paying a mechanic and have the satisfaction of a job well done with your own 2 hands.

Have you driven it much? Log some miles before worrying about chatter. If the problem persists, as mentioned, look to the flywheel or TOB as more likely causes. Exedy are the standard best replacements.

I think for 2000+ the impreza and forester rear suspension remained the same/compatible where the legacy/outback were different

There's a sticky in the off road section called the "unofficial how to lift your impreza" Most of the same will apply to yours. I lifted a 97 Impreza using forester struts and springs and HDPE spacers and gained a lot of clearance with 28 inch tires. With outback/forester suspension on yours you'll clear about a 27 inch tire with no rubbing. You can go bigger with a little trimming. If you need to go even bigger it takes a body lift - SJR and Anderson Design/Fabrication both make them.

Start of day 3. Hills of Texas are fun! Made it to central texas where our friends live. Started packing the trailer that would be towed the second half of the country. The hope was to take as many of the donations and equipment as possible for them to save $$$ on customs. Loaded up during the afternoon Waited for papers to arrive the next morning and left. Trailer was loaded up so pace was about 50-55mph tops. Much more and the trailer had too much opportunity to cause mischief. 5th day was mostly straight driving with a few stops for good food along the way. We had made it to Baton Rouge the night before. Day 5 we crossed Mississippi and Alabama and the Florida panhandle. Found a Wawa in Florida! Right next to a Culvers! Life was good! Finally rolled in this morning to leave the Subaru, trailer and paperwork with the shipping company. 6 days and over 3200 miles and it made it! We did an oil change this morning after breakfast so it's starting fresh when it gets off the ship in Haiti next week. This car has gone from Illinois, to Vermont, to Oakland to Florida and now leaves the country for much more use and adventure.

WHEW! Sitting in a hotel room in Florida now. Finished up Saturday morning and hit the road. Made it to Los Angeles the first evening. Drove day 2 from 6am until after midnight. Got through Caifornia, Arizona, New Mexico and into Western Texas. I replaced o rings on the AC and recharged it before I left. A day of 110 degrees with AC on full tilt was a great stress test which is passed well Glad to have my first Culvers in a long time!

Here's the start to the day. Finished paint on the roof rack. Drilled mounting holes and bolted it on. Rhino Pac clutch kit finally arrived. Realized after I took the photo of the clutch disc that I had it backwards. Whoops. Clutch installed on the motor. The steering rack was the battle of the day. The front crossmember gives little room for working a grinder and fitting under with my welding helmet and such was tight. I finally took one of the steering rack brackets, threaded a bolt through a big washer and nut, welded the nut to the washer and held the bracket in place to weld the washer to the crossmember. Once the new captive nuts were tacked in, I pulled the bolts and bracket and welded in some extra material to make it structurally sound. Stronger than new now. After the new mounts were made, the install went pretty smoothly. Now has a recently rebuild and (probably more importantly) California rust free. Together again. Motor is reinstalled and clutch pedal feels great. As daylight ran out I got some of the measurements and cut some material for the bumpers. Got the mechanicals 95% together in the car. Tomorrow will see some test driving and a lot of welding. Leaving tomorrow evening or Saturday morning if all goes as planned.

Outback is a little bigger and heavier and as such will get slightly lower gas mileage. The tradeoff is a steadier/smoother ride and much more cargo capacity. I far prefer/reccomend an outback over a forester unless you have unique need for the forester. (Some of the off road folks like them for the shorter wheel base to fit more places) Both are very dependable cars though, so it's tough to go wrong. Having owned and driven both, I found the outback to be a better ride and more versatile. Never really noticed a difference in gas mileage. Forester is technically an SUV which can make the insurance bills higher.

I had to use that trick to remove a crank pulley from a motor already out of a car. Would work fine for this as well. Basically you are temporarily bolting the outside of the flex plate to the engine block so it can't rotate. I used a piece of steel with two holes drilled into it. As mentioned you can use a double ended box wrench. One bolt to the outside of the flex plate and one to the outside of the motor block. Then remove it after the flex plate bolts are in.

I always just put a 22mm socket on the crank pulley with the breaker bar. One hand on the breaker and one to tighten the bolt.

Tires are mounted and look great. Test fitting the rack to know where to drill. Clutch still has not arrived but got the motor pulled today. There's usually at least one snag with every big project. Here's this one. After 3 days of soaking in PB blaster and with care backing the bolts out, 3 of the 4 power steering rack bolts snapped. I had to cut the captive nuts out with my grinder. Going to weld new nuts in and reinforce the mounts. Still to do - Weld the armored bumpers and install. Clutch install and put the motor back in finish painting the rack and mount it. O rings and new refrigerant Make some killer mix CDs for a 45 hour drive.

Bunk bed frames cut down and welded together forming the base of the roof rack. Installed the hitch and grabbed some leftovers from the garage to put it together. Grease to keep it from sticking. BAM! It can tow now. Will be taking a trailer from Texas to Florida along the way. Pulling the timing belt for an upgrade. Crank pulley was good and rusty. Grabbed one off an EJ25 that my brother and I pulled last week. Making the swap tomorrow. Took a long while to find a shop that will mount an balance without charging an arm and a leg. Shops out here almost all want $25-$30 per tire! Not gonna pay $100+ to mount a set of tires. Found one a half hour down the road that will do it for about half that.

Small variations. If yours is old/sagging/ rusted out then swap the rear tophats onto the GT stuff, install the legacy suspension on the impreza and drive on. Otherwise there's nothing really special about them. Unless yours are failing you wont notice much if any difference.

One bolt inside the timing covers, the other two sit above the covers. 12mm. Had to do this for a buddy of mine a couple weeks ago. He installed a cheap Ebay timing kit and the new bolt supplied for the tensioner snapped off. Luckily it was a 96 (non interference) and I had a builder motor in the garage. We cannibalized the bracket and bolt and had him driving in an hour.

Made a deal on these via craigslist last night. Full set of General Grabber AT2s in 225/70/15 for about the cost of one new one. Tires are nearly new. While out I stopped at Pick N Pull in Fremont and got a trailer hitch from a 97 Outback. Steering rack on the car was rusty and had a pretty good drip when I drove it. Found a rebuilt unit in a 98 Legacy. Remanufactured battery as well. Harbor freight 4th of July sale for cutting and sanding discs for the upcoming metal work.

96 outback with 79k. AC does not blow cold. The car has sat for a while so there's some corrosion on most of the aluminum surfaces, but am I right in thinking that green stuff may be indicating a failed O ring? Anything else I should do besides new O rings and charge the system? Part number or size for the o rings?

Started right up with a jump. One tire was half flat but I may be throwing an AT set on there anyway. Lots of leaves and dirt to clean as it sat for a few months. Gave it a wet wash and evicted an ant colony from the trunk. drivers window went down but not up. Used switch fixed that. Started taking its face off for some new armor. Bye bye plastic Test fitting so this thing can go beast over the next week. I've mostly cleared my calendar so it will be my obsession for the next 5 days.

Between our schedules and some of the political theater in Haiti, this vehicle was delayed twice. Lots happening with it now. If paperwork goes through I'll be driving it to Florida this coming weekend.

If you're getting an electrical code, I wouldn't worry about a used trans. You should be able to fix this one. Get back to basics - the trans shifted fine before the motor was pulled? Check. The trans still shifts which means the pump is not broken? Check. The trans is giving an electrical error signal? Check. What wires could have been exposed to damage? There are only a few on the outside of the trans. Check, double check and triple check every sensor and wire and connector on the outside of the trans. When you pulled the pan did you check the steel hoses and wires to make sure nothing was crimped, cut or crushed? Did the trans pan get dented from jacking it up? I'm fairly certain this will be a simple fix once you find it. When I crinkled the pan doing the same thing on a 97 legacy it was extremely goofy and gave the flashing light. A white wire inside the trans had been cut. Once I spliced it back together everything was normal again,

You would open a can of worms trying to turbo it. Direct fit would be a 1996-1998 EJ22 SOHC. 1990-1995 EJ22s and EJ18s will drop in if you get the front exhaust pipe along with the motor.

I'm under the same impression. Should cross over just fine.