All_talk

You can tweak it a bit to get it into factory spec, theres the info from the '89 FSM. Gary

Mine seems reasonably brite, but I noticed that mine is brighter with the roof switch than the door switch, I suspect that voltage loss can be an issue with this circuit. Check the voltage at the bulb under load (with the bulb on), if its less than battery voltage fix that problem first. Gary

Here's the chart: In stock form the RX (and most cars) tend to understeer, as stated before in general this is safer. So if your not making other changes like spring rates, then leaving the front alone and add a larger rear makes the most sense. The stock front (18mm) with the XT6 rear (20mm) should be a good combo. Gary

yep, what he said, the complete phrase is "bump back to the top". Isn't cyberland fun, its got its own language... and its almost a stupid and confusing as English. :-p Gary

A diesel Subaru would be very cool, with an adapter plate, custom flywheel, motor mounts, some wiring and a few other things you could get it in there. BUT the big issue is the gear ratios, diesels turn less than half the RPM of a gas engine, I bet topped out in 5th gear you would be lucky to get 50mph. Whats the RPM range on the TDI? Maybe you swap in the tranny too (and lose 4WD)? Gary

... and they come with a bag of $20s in the back. WJM your a d*ck :-p . That was like having a hot chick come on to you then punch you in the face. Cruel... just cruel. Gary

Very nice work, clean. Any noticeable lag with all the extra pipe to fill? Gary

This was pasted from this thread: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=20750 This conversation started in PM, but it may be of interest to others so I’ll post it here. Do you know the voltage output range of the stock MAF? I understand it tops out at the 5V reference, but what would it be at idle? I’ve seen your graph, can we correlate output voltage to it? I also under stand that max flow is 200g/m at 5V, true? Do you have any idea what would be a typical flow at idle? Do you know the injector pulse width at idle (typical range)? And is injector flow fairly linier with changes in pulse width? What all this is leading to is I’m hoping to use the EJ22T’s MAF and injectors in the earlier EA82T, this would give an additional 50% flow and eliminate the fuel cut issues that occur with any attempt to increase flow (additional boost or otherwise). This would require both ECUs to have similar architecture and input/output ranges, the ECUs are one generation apart so it might be possible. I think I can check the range of the EA82T MAF with a voltmeter, is there any simple way to read the injector pulse width? Maybe some type of RMS voltage, or is an oscilloscope the only actuate way? Lastly, are the N/A EJ22 MAF and injectors the same as the turbo, if not, what sort of flow are the capable of? Thanks for your time Gary NEXT POST Here is vrg3's responce I've been searching the site for some info on the stock EJ22T system and you seem to be in the know. Quote: Do you know the voltage output range of the stock MAF? I don't understand what exactly you mean by this question... The signal can range from somewhere around 0 volts up to somewhere around 5 volts, and the meaning of the signal is given by the transfer function graph that I've posted and you've seen. Quote: I understand it tops out at the 5V reference, but what would it be at idle? At idle the signal usually sits somewhere around 1 volt. Quote: I’ve seen your graph, can we correlate output voltage to it? Yes; the horizontal axis is the voltage (or the voltage times 32 or times 8 depending on what units I chose). Quote: I also under stand that max flow is 200g/m at 5V, true? At 5 volts the airflow is around 200 grams per second (not per minute). Quote: Do you have any idea what would be a typical flow at idle? I dunno, somewhere around 10 grams a second maybe? Quote: Do you know the injector pulse width at idle (typical range)? Around 2 or 3 milliseconds. Quote: And is injector flow fairly linier with changes in pulse width? Very roughly, yes. To do it a little more accurately you have to model the time it takes the injector to move from the closed position to the open position. This time is roughly proportional to system voltage. Quote: What all this is leading to is I’m hoping to use the EJ22T’s MAF and injectors in the earlier EA82T, this would give an additional 50% flow and eliminate the fuel cut issues that occur with any attempt to increase flow (additional boost or otherwise). This seems like a cool idea in principle. How does the EA82T's stock engine management control ignition timing? Quote: This would require both ECUs to have similar architecture and input/output ranges, the ECUs are one generation apart so it might be possible. Weellll... I don't think that's true (the first part, I mean). If you change out the injectors and MAF sensor but keep the ECU, you're basically throwing the architecture out the window. You're going to mangle the input to the system (the airflow signal) and the output of the system (the amount of fuel injected) and hope you can make the two cancel out. One difficulty you'll encounter is that hot-wire and hot-film MAF sensors typically have quadratic transfer functions, while injector flow is approximately linear. So, you can't just change out the injectors and sensor and get "correct" behavior all the time. Also, doesn't the EA82T ECU have control over ignition timing? I would imagine it would compute load based on airflow and then determine spark advance using this load computation. If you make the ECU think there's less airflow than there really is, you may get undesirably advanced spark. You might be able to make this stuff work out in the end though. You'll want good instrumentation, I think. Another thing you might want to consider... I'll preface by saying I have no idea how the EA82T does its camshaft and/or crankshaft position sensing, but maybe you could look into the possibility of using an EJ22T ECU as well. The hard part would just be to get the right kind of crankshaft and camshaft position signals, assuming the EA82T does it very differently. But maybe you could hack up your crank pulley and a cam sprocket to give the right signals. Quote: I think I can check the range of the EA82T MAF with a voltmeter, What do you mean by the range? Wouldn't you need some kind of flow bench to determine the transfer function? Quote: is there any simple way to read the injector pulse width? Maybe some type of RMS voltage, or is an oscilloscope the only actuate way? Many quality multimeters (especially those designed for automotive use, of course) have the ability to display duty cycle and/or pulse width. They do also make some very crude "injector duty cycle" meters that basically use a capacitor to integrate a square wave representing the injector drive waveform, and in that way display the average value of the waveform. Quote: Lastly, are the N/A EJ22 MAF and injectors the same as the turbo, if not, what sort of flow are the capable of? 90-91 5-speed N/A EJ22s use the same MAF sensor as the EJ22T. 90-91 automatic N/A EJ22s, and all 92-94 N/A EJ22s, use a MAF sensor made by JECS with a maximum flow reading of around 300 grams per second. As far as I know, all N/A EJ22s use injectors that flow about 280 cc/min, roughly 75% as much as the turbo injectors. Quote: Thanks for your time You're welcome. Good luck! -Vikash NEXT POST I’ve been busy lately, but here are a few more thoughts… IF the EA82T MAF’s signal ranges from 0 to 5V (I believe it does, still need to test). IF the EA82T MAF’s transfer function follows a curve “similar” to the EJ22T (big assumption, and much harder to test). Based on the 180cc rating for the EA injector the EA MAF should flow around 130g/s @ 5V. MAF ratios: 200/130 = 1.54 Injector ratio: 280/180 = 1.56 Looks like the parts from the ’90-’91 N/A 5MT EJ22 are a good match. The EA has a lower static fuel pressure 36psi vs. 43psi for the EJ, so I’m assuming I’ll need to raise the fuel pressure to the EJ 43 or so for the scaling to hold true. I scaled the MAF’s transfer function of the EJ to get a similar function for the EA over the lower flow to see the trend in voltage differential. The voltage differential increases with higher flow, I believe this will cause a leaner A/F relative to the balance set at idle. But the higher flow will most likely be due to higher boost pressures, which will raise fuel pressure and hopefully offset this. The ignition timing on the EA82T is controlled by the ECU, but the crank/cam position is sensed by a module in the distributor, and because is adjustable I should be able to shift the whole timing map down. This will mean less total advance, but I should be able to find a balance that mitigates the over-advance due to the lower flow/load sensed. The EA82T also has a knock sensor, which provides up to 5deg of retard. Thoughts Gary

No, and thats a real problem to be sorted unless we can find some hose barb injectors that flow about 280cc/s. '81 to '83 Datsun 280ZXT injectors are suppose to flow 265cc @ 45psi. Gary

I'm not sure it really a boxer thing but does seem common to a few of them. But the big plus on the A/C VeeWees is there is no water jacket so you just run'em cracked. Gary

Sealed bearings are not a bad idea, but most are prelubed with a fairly light oil suited for moderate load and higher RPM. Wheel bearings see heavy/shock load and low RPM, a grease lube is better for this. If I were going to use the sealed bearings I'd still run the stock seals (double bag it) and remove the inner seals from the bearings (facing each other in the hub) so that they could be packed with proper grease. The bearings should be available from any bearing house in sealed ®, shielded (Z) and open versions, and far cheaper that NAPA. Look on the edge of the race for the bearing number. Gary

Yep what jeffroid said, If done properly there is nothing wrong with the drift method. Notes: There are reliefs in the casting to drive out the old bearings by the outer race (clean out some grease), but if you aren't reusing the old bearing it doesn't matter. Like stated, drive in new ones buy outter race ONLY. DO not transfer impact forces through the balls, it will dent the races. Keep the bearing square, drive (tap) around the race at 3 points or more, alternating sides. I normaly use a rotating 3 point technique, think of a clock face, 12-4-8-2-6-10-4-8-12… and so on. You’ll know when its seated, the sound and feel will change. If the new bearing doesn’t drive in firm or is loose once seated, the old one has spun and the hub is junk (there is a shade tree fix that I wont go into). DO NOT forget the spacer before putting in the second bearing. I'ts not real hard to do, good luck. Gary

A clutch type LSD uses ramps to apply pressure to the clutch packs, the angle of the ramps is often different for forward and reverse torque. So depending how the parts are installed it might not function as intended. I know the front and rear ring gear carrier are not the same, but there might be a way to adapt the clutch parts into the front carrier with some creative machine work. If somebody has a trans and LSD diff they will let me take apart I’ll see what can be done. Gary

I’ve heard rumors that they use an EGT for mixture feedback instead of an O2 sensor. Sorry, I don’t know anymore. Gary

Cornering loads will tend to spread the towers, so if in-turn flex is your concern you should preload with a slight bit of tension. Gary

Just checked POs ad... its an '86.

Its a 3-door, same body as my '87 RX 3-door. And yes it could be an '86, the guy I got it from said it was an '85 (I think), but I havent looked at title that close, maybe a late '85 build date. I plan on using dash mounted switches (dont wanna change the wheel), anybody have the dash mounted "DL" switchs, Maybe a pic? I was just gonna go with a momentary rocker and a push button. Gary

Mine defiantly looks to be the dealer installed version, the wires from switch run along the out side of the signal lever with shrink tube around them. No digi-dash, this is a ’85 GL 3-door with D/R 5-speed. I’ll have to do some more testing. Dose the pic in the buyers guide look like this? That’s the shape of my switch, are the functions the same. Gary

Start with the basics... fuel, spark and compression. Recent CEL? Any stored codes in the ECU? Good Luck Gary

Hmm... When I had it out on the road the "roll forward" seemed to be the "set" function. Maybe mines wired wrong? Gary

I picked up a GL Coupe parts car from TheMeatWagon last week (thanks again Andrew), it has cruse control with the controls on the turn indicator stick but all writing is rubbed off them. The switch rolls forward and back and has a button in the end, what is each function? I think I’m going to put it in my ’87 RX, which would have had the controls on the steering wheel, but I think I’ll just put switches on the dash. Where ahould I look for the control box? Gary

Most silvers are metallic and light metallics like silver and gold tones are not easy. I do a bit of autobody and paint work, here are a few things I’ve learned (most of them the hard way). Quality equipment maters, stick to solid colors (no metallic or perils) unless you are going to use a higher end gun that can properly atomize the suspended particles, good guns start around $300. Your compressor wont ever really be big enough unless you spend $1000, you can get by and do good work with a $400 unit (I do), but timing becomes more important. In most cases it doesn’t make since to buy equipment for one paint job, borrow or rent. If you don’t have a clean booth to work in do not try and use cheap single stage enamels, there is no way to fix them when they turn out full of dirt (I’d recommend never using them). Base/Clearcoat systems are much easier to spray and offer the opportunity to fix defects along the way and after the job is done, money well spent. YES, its all in the prep… every defect you can see in primer (plus a lot you don’t) will show in the paint, the final gloss will hide nothing and show every shortcut. Buy more paint than you think you’ll need… you’ll need it (for a Brat without the bed I’d get at least 3 quarts sprayable, more if you’re shooting the inside). I’d recommend buying a book or two, there’s a lot to learn. Also check out this site for great advice and good deals on equipment (I bought my gun there): Hope this helps Gary

Yep, you gotta bump it, its like that on every choke equiped car I've ever had (Sube or not). Gary

I've heard that if you get a bunch of people to clap hard enough she will come back to life. :-p Gary

Might be a good way to go if I wouldn't require a major rewire. I wonder if the N/A EJ22 is MAF, I think it has the same injectors but I thought it was a MAP control, anybody know? Gary