All_talk

Some math... EJ22T injectors - 275 cc/m @ 43 psi 26.2 lb/hr @ 43 psi 29.1 lb/hr @ 53 psi (10 psi boost) MAF - 200 g/s 1587 lb/hr 1587/29.1 = 13.6:1 A/F EA82T injectors - 180 cc/m @ 36 psi ? (not sure on the test pressure) 17 lb/hr @ 36 psi ? 18.9 lb/hr @ 44 psi (8 psi boost) MAF - I dont have any numbers for the max MAF rating so I back figured a ball park with a 13.5:1 A/F 18.9 x 13.5 = 1020 lb/hr So the EJ stuff will flow about 50% more. Now there are some MAJOR assumptions involved in all this that will have to be tested, namely that the MAF voltage output range is the same and curve is similar to the EA82T’s MAF and that near idle both engines flow about the same. As long as the both ECUs use a similar output curve for the MAF voltage range the A/F should hold and the fuel pressure could be used to fine tune. I scaled the mass flow for the EA82T to see how much additional boost would be needed to fully utilize the extra flow provided by the larger EJ parts. 1000 lb/hr @ 1.54 bar (8 psi boost) goes to 1500 lb/hr @ 2.31 bar (19 psi boost) Now 19 psi is not going to happen with the stock turbo, but with some other mods to increase flow (and a good IC) we should be able to run 12-14psi (about all the stocker is good for) with plenty of fuel. And with the TD04 or the like, I think somewhere in that 160-180HP range is possible. Thoughts? Opinions? Gary

I’ve been thinking and cipherin again… On MAF based systems the fuel output (injector pulse width) is computed mainly from the MAF output voltage with other sensor inputs used as modifiers. So if you had a MAF that allowed more flow for the same voltage output range and a match set of injectors with a higher output for the given pulse width, the ECU should still maintain the A/F proportions, right? What about fitting the EA82T with the MAF and injectors from the EJ22T? I believe they have the same input and output range and have about 50% more flow, which should give us about 180HP worth of fuel and air with NO fuel cut. I’ve got some numbers but I don’t have time to post them right now, I’ll try when I get home. Mounting the EJ injectors would have to be sorted out (or equivalent barbed injector could be used), and the fuel pressure would have to be adjusted, but I think there might be something to work with here. I wish I had some EJ22T parts to test and play with. Discuss… Gary

Should be to the right and jusr below the steering column, behind the little grill in the dash panel. You can get to it from below with the lower panels removed, its got pink wires if I remember right. Gary

From what I've seen on my two EA82s with analog gauges the stock 190F thermostat puts the needle at half or slightly below, my RX now has a 180F and runs a bit above 1/4 on the scale. Not sure about the digi tho. Hope that helps Gary

First let me apologize for the delay, I expected to be further along with this project by now, my extra curricular work always seems to get bogged down by stupid life stuff. :-p I finished the fixture plate for the mill work so all I need now is some material for the hubs and few sets of stock pulleys… and a bit of inspiration which bumping this thread should provide. My plan is to do three or four sets in this first run and get some out to my testers, maybe even try a set on my stock RX for durability testing (I drive 900miles a week). If all is good I hope to have more sets available to sell by WCSS7. Thanks for the bump Gary P.S. If I have time I’m going to try to bring a few more wears to WCSS, like light flywheels, wheel spacers/adapters and strut bars. Let me know what you think people might want.

My '87 had the same idle/decel rattle, I read some people fixed loose cat "bricks" by squeezing the can, I tried this with no success. So I pulled the mid pipe and found it was the inner pipe, so I cranked up the welder and burned through the outter to the inner in about dozen places, and not a sound since. Gary

Using less fuel and pinging?... you're running lean, and yes a bad O2 sensor could cause it. Dont wait to long to fix it either, you'll kill the engine. Gary

I think the pipe ahead of that point is about the same size, so I don’t think there is much to be gained by expanding it at that point. If the pipe forward looks larger check to see if its double wall. My ’87 GL wagons is, looks big on the outside but its only about 1.5" inside the inner pipe. Its like that from the heads to the muffler and I’m sure its stock. I found it when I had a bad rattle in the mid pipe, I fixed it with a few spot welds from the outer to the inner along the pipe, I did the Y-pipe too. Gary

You laugh at this, but the rally guys do this when seam welding a new shell. Some pics here: http://www.gr8wheels.com/Rallyprep.html And go here and search for "Death Ray" (I think the search is down right now): http://www.specialstage.com/dc/dcboard.php Gary

I don’t think that’s true, I think the brake lights work off a hydraulic pressure switch in the HH side of the circuit. Some testing is in order. Gary

Its all about options... I will agree that with some experience the hill holder is unnecessary in most situations. But with proper adjustment it can be set up so that it only works when you want it to. Now under normal use I don’t bury my clutch into the carpet, I just move it passed the “cam over point” to full disengagement, shift, then engage. My HH is adjusted so that it ONLY catches with the last 1/2" or so of clutch pedal stroke, well passed the disengagement point, and then it normally takes a bit of a stab on the brake pedal to set it. I have never had it catch when I didn’t want it to and it’s always there when I want it. Works great for me. Gary

Rallycross tends to be pretty smooth (unless is at Pacific Raceways last summer where I was rolling helmet sized rocks across the bottom of my RX :-\ ), I’m not sure a lift and swampers are the best choice. For me, getting the car to rotate in the sharp turns was the biggest challenge, I found myself working the throttle and yelling out loud “ turn you b*tch, turn”. :-p Launch at 4000rpm and if you don’t run passed redline try 2ed gear Lo. And like Mudrat said, its a lot more driver than car. Good luck, its great fun Gary

I dont think thats right, it should be 4.93:1 in low, or is my math bad? 4.11 x 1.2 = 4.93 With the stock 3.7 and RX 1.2 low you get the 4.44 3.7 x 1.2 = 4.44 BTW, the RX gear ratios work out like a 6 speed (with a really low 1st) if you run it in low and shift to high range after 5th. Gary

Baja Bug guys have been know to do it when required. But they are very light in the front and normaly have bigger tires in the rear, if you move the tires around so you have a small one on the opposite rear of the missing front it will get you home. The hanning front arm acts like a spring loaded skid in the rough stuff. I dont think it would work very well with the Subie though, maybe if you pulled the axle and brake assembly leaving just the spring loaded arm. Gary

In the case of Subaru and Nissan/Datsun they share the same parent company... FHI. Gary

Added in the rad (front)... same tranny, same axle position, as the 4cyl. Gary

Gee Calebz, do you poke sticks at sleeping junk yard dogs too? :-p Gary

I sent a email to Prodrive asking about the wheels... My email: Sent: 04 March 2005 13:10 To: Mike Wood Subject: 4 lug wheels on the WRC2005? Hello I wonder if you could answer some questions about the 4 lug wheels on the Impreza WRC2005. Are they a 4 x 140mm pattern (matching the older Subaru)? And if so, in what sizes and offsets are they available? Public availability and pricing? Thank you for your time. Gary N. Bury His responce: Gary To be honest, I don't know. The latest spec WRC hubs have been designed with a much larger centre so that the driveshaft can be removed without pulling the suspension apart, hence saving time in the service area. I guess that the 5 studs are not necessary to carry the loads, hence the 4 studs. The offset of the wheels will be totally different to what would work on a road car so they wouldn't be a carry over part. Regards Mike So will still dont know. Gary

Absolutely not true, I’m not going into all the engineering and physics but I promise you that the power required to spin the alternator increases proportionally with its output. Power out is equal to power plus losses. 1hp = 745.7watts, with a nominal 14volt system that’s 53amps. The alternator is at very best 70% efficient, so for 1hp output you need 1.4 hp input and that doesn’t account for mechanical and belt losses or the conversion back to mechanical energy fan motor (again around 70% would be very good). In the end to get 1hp output at the electric fan you would need at VERY least 2hp at the alternator. Or another way to look at it… with a stock 55amp alternator (output), the most power you could get at the electric fan is .72hp if it consumed all 55 amps. There is a reason most cars still come from the manufacturer with a mechanical clutch fan. Just one point of view (supported by the facts) Gary P.S. I didn't know that some EA81s had a single pole thermo switch... I stand corrected. They must have made the change on the EA82s, as most of them have radiators with plastic tanks.

I cant wait tell Jamie finds this thread. :-p Gary P.S. my only semi-personal experience with Jamie was quite positive. She helped my daughter (via e-mail) with a report on being a rally racer when she grows up.

The thermo switch grounds back to the wiring harness (thats why it has two poles). And there are my thoughts on the electric/mechanical fan debate (from this thread). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21917&highlight=electric+fan The electric fan is actually the stock one and the mechanical one was added to the A/C cars. If you don’t have A/C you should be fine with one (or two) of the stock type electric ones. If you do have A/C (and use it) I’d stick with the mechanical one, or if you do want to go with twin electric get a high flow aftermarket one, I don’t think the stock electric one can pull near the air that the mechanical does, just look at the size and pitch of its blades. The amount of power saved buy switching from a mechanical fan to an electric is a bit of a myth, if the mechanical clutch fan is functioning properly it only pulls when the rad is hot and needs it. The electric fan requires power too, and its power is subject to two electo-mechanical conversion (alternator and fan motor), both of which have about a 70% conversion efficacy, so the electric one requires about 50% more input power for the same output. Gary

That “paint can” catch tank that MR2 guy made is pretty cool. The water separator could work well to. In most cases oil control problems are due to bad rings, but boxer engines seem to have more issues than some others. I think it has to do with the lack of height between breather outlets and the PCV valve (old VWs have problems too). Turbo cars have it even worse because of the positive manifold pressure, when on boost you either have to draw the crank case vapors through the turbo or let them build up in the case, on sustained boost this can be a big problem. Having a good separator makes the drawing through the turbo a lot better. To get the oil to drop out, you need to slow down the flow and cool it, lots of surface area for the oil to collect on will help to. The paint can idea is good but the inlet should enter lower in the can and I’d but a layer of very course steel wool between the inlet and outlet. Having the plumbing run through the lid would be good so you could remove and clean the can easier. Just some thoughts Gary

Hey hops Crackling and popping out the exhaust on deceleration is normally a sign of a lean burn condition. The fact that it gets better after warm up would also conferm this. I’m assuming carburetor, right? With the throttle closed all the fuel comes through the idle circuit, you might try richening up the idle mix a bit. Is it all stock? If you have modified it, or removed some emissions equipment that could create the condition. I don’t know if the ’80 Subarus used a dashpot to hold the throttle plate open on high vacuum (a lot of cars did about the time), but if so you might check it for proper operation. Another thought… Vacuum leak? Hope this helps Gary

Hmmm… my RX is bone stock and very tired (288,000miles) and the bottom end seems OK, I mean I know its not actually fast but it feels pretty good. There is a little delay right off launch, maybe a second or less, but I’ve got full boost before 3000rpm, I run it to about 6000 and the boost is right there after the shift. For spirited driving these engines should be kept between 3500rpm and red line. Maybe you are use to faster cars than me, or you have a boost problem? Try this, rolling slow in 4th or 5th (below 1500rpm), punch it, you should see positive pressure around 2000 (turbo light). Have you tried a launch in Lo range? In my car the boost comes in so soon you cant really feel it hit, almost feels slower lol. Remember the RX isn’t about real performance, its about perceived performance, from the drivers seat it feels sporty, but the mom in the mini-van that just blew you off the stoplight just sees an old econobox with a guy wearing a silly grin behind the wheel. Gary BTW, technically the term “boost lag” refers to the delay in boost from off throttle to on throttle while above the minimum boost RPM (like after a redline shift), the stock RX is actually very good in this respect. Minimum boost RPM is something different and is really only an issue on launch in cars that lack the power to produce enough wheel spin to get on boost from the start.

I've never seen one fail quite like that... I'm guessing a lot of 6000 RPM lanuches?? Gary