upnorthguy

On RockAuto I see those o-rings as part of a couple of the camshaft seal kits (cam seal and o-ring together) but I don't see the o-ring by itself. The Subaru p/n is 806946030 (seen here in the beergarage photos/repair info and described in this USMB thread).

OK, got everything connected (I think!). Went to fire up the engine for quick timing check before I drop in the radiator and fill it up. It doesn't catch. Turns over but seems like it is missing. I did replace the fuel filter and spark plugs (standard NGK, gapped to .045). When I first cranked it (before the video was taken) I thought I heard one pop of a fire, but it didn't catch. Then I remembered that Fairtax suggested I unscrew the gas cap to keep vapor pressure from building. I thought that might be hurting my situation since I didn't have any gas in the fuel lines and the fuel filter was new (and empty). I know the timing is set correctly as I set it before I fired it up. I made sure to put the correct cam on the correct side so the cam position sensor is happy. Suggestions on what to check?

+2 Same here. Very handy.

I did have a load leveler that came with the borrowed hoist and that helped. I needed to change the angle of the engine just a bit to get it to line up and slide back into the posts. I got the engine bolted to the transmission last weekend and was waiting on my RockAuto order for exhaust and manifold gaskets. Now I have the exhaust and intake back in place. I was bolting things together last night and I'm down a mystery bracket. I didn't mark it so it must have seemed "obvious" where it would go...although that location is eluding me at the moment. It was near my bolts for the A/C compressor so it seems like it should go somewhere on that side. Maybe the two lower long bolts for the compressor go through it? I poked around opposedforces but couldn't identify this. The bracket in question https://imageshack.com/i/neji30j Anyone know?

Use www.opposedforces.com to look up the part. I think yours might be this one, but I'm not totally sure based on your posted info. Hmm, with opposedforces, you get the Subaru part number. Then if you use that part number on a Subaru dealer site (e.g. www.1stsubaruparts.com) you only get the useful name of "BOLT" when you look up the part number. I don't know why they don't actually tell you the bolt size on the diagram. Does someone have another source for figuring out the bolt sizes? You could hit the local hardware store and get selection of metric bolts to see what fits. Or I bet someone here knows the size...

General consensus is that non-OEM axles are terrible. They often make noise (sometimes right out of the box). The best bet most of the time is to clean the joint, regrease and reboot the factory CV joints and keep the axles. CV axles are quite tough and generally do not fail...even after they have torn a boot and spun out much of the grease. I've driven older Subarus for thousands of miles with torn boots. Turning and hearing the clicking is the tell-tale sound of torn CV boots and the bearings clickity clacking. I'm not as familiar with that newer gen Outback, but in my '95 wagon I saw I have a torn inner CV boot. I just ordered CV boots from RockAuto and they were about $8/ea plus a few bucks for shipping (I was happy to see that this included a packet of grease as well!). Are you able to do the work yourself? There is good info here and on for boot replacement.

I'll wait for the big boys to chime in, but I will say that pulling the engine wasn't as hard as I thought. I just pulled a 2.2 out of my '95 Legacy so I could fix some oil leaks. It is taking me some time because of work and weather, but it hasn't been anything too bad. Of course, fasteners can be more of a challenge for a MN car... If you end up needing to do an engine swap it sounds like you've got the ability to do it. A copy of the FSM and a few videos should get you there. The EJ22 is pretty bomber and generally considered one of Subaru's best engines and not one that typically has any headgasket problems. The 2.5 (EJ25) from the '95-98 generally suck and have bad HG issues. Many people swap in an EJ22. Only the crazy ones swap in an EJ25. I don't know what Chesney's has for Scoobs/engines, but you never know. Actually, I just searched on www.car-part.com and they have a few '95-'98 2.2s (search Legacy and Impreza) but Chesney's wants $500-600 for all of them (with pretty high miles). I think the Impreza had a 2.2 up to 2001, but if you end up swapping, the '95 and '96 EJ22s are non-interference which is nice if you have a timing problem with the belt/pulleys. I don't know Imprezas very well, but others here will weigh in. The EJ18 (1.8) from that era that some Imprezas had is supposed to be solid like the EJ22. I do know Chesney's prices have gone up in the last few years as they have started to get more savvy with online parts prices. I used to be able to call ahead of time and get the "first" price, and then negotiate a lower one at the yard by offering to pay cash with no receipt. They didn't go for that last time I was there and tried to suggest a price for a item that was within a few bucks of a new non-OEM part (a radiator fan for a Honda Civic). I laughed and said why would I pay that price? They came down quite a bit when they realized I knew accurate pricing.

Unless there is some other problem and the mighty minds here weigh in differently, I think you could use GeneralDisorder's Post-Apocalyptic Machine Shop Technique to resurface your heads at your house for installation on a new used block. Check it out.

Although the yellow plastic handle is usually not so yellow anymore...look for muted greasy dirty yellow!

One O2 sensor is screwed into the front cat and the other is into the rear cat.

+1 for oil all over due to separator plate. I just pulled my EJ22 and there was so much oil sludge all over the bottom of my engine...I think I had leaky valve cover gaskets in addition to the separator plate. My front seals were OK (crank/cam) but there was oil all over the sides, bottom and back of my engine (in addition to a layer about a foot thick on the cross member, power steering rack, steering knuckle, on top of the Y pipe). Basically, there was oil all over down there from blow back.

Glad I saw this discussion about oil filters...I had a new Fram already screwed on waiting for fresh oil once I get my engine back dropped in this weekend. I picked up a PureOne Purolator ($7.19 at Adv Auto, but had 20% off code) and swapped it out. At least I only wasted a filter and not the fresh oil!

Look at ebay as well...you can sometimes score good deals there. I just found a post on ebay for $69 (free shipping) for that part http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-SUBARU-LEGACY-OEM-RH-SPINDLE-KNUCKLE-/380720732434?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a4b95912&vxp=mtr

sorry for my ignorance but what is vlsd? Viscous limited slip differential

If you like your body style I routinely see 96-99 Outbacks advertised around DC where the body is in great shape but have bent valves from a broken timing belt or a bad EJ25 that require head gaskets. I've seen them as low as $300 and as high as $1500 for that type of car. Down here you can also get something with a decent engine (e.g. an EJ25 that has had HG replacement) for $1800-$3000. If you have had the engine out of your Outback you could do the HG on the EJ25. Most here would say it is better to just find a used EJ22 and swap it into the Outback and ditch the EJ25 (yes, 30 HP lower, but no HG issues on the EJ22 and you can get one for just a few hundred bucks (www.car-part.com). Like this '99 Outback ($900 with 158k) http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4459444901.html Or this '98 with bent valves ($1000/OBO with 89k) http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/4455574493.html This 2002 H6 has been posted for a month or two ($4,800 with 134k) http://annapolis.craigslist.org/cto/4398214149.html Another 2002 with 206k for $4500 http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/4443542246.html

Hot d@mn, that tool is slick! I spent more time the other day looking for a small screw to try and use in the seal to grab it. Five seconds with Lisle and the seal was out. Great suggestion.

2.5 was not offered until '96 so either the owner is confused or someone swapped in a 2.5 (must have received an engine for free!) http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive95_97.html This is probably the ad, eh? http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4457412482.html 1995 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon - $1900 (Westwood) condition: good 1995 Subaru Wagon odometer: 115000 automatic transmission title : clean 1995 Legacy Outback Wagon 4 cylinder 2.5 engine with automatic transmission. Car runs and drives good. Only 1000 miles on all new tires. Don't let the dents in the rear quarter panel fool you, this is a great car, especially snow/ice driving! 115,000 original miles. Only two owners! Working am/fm/cassette stereo, power windows. Interior in excellent condition! $1900 or BO

That tool looks excellent. I ordered one from Sears (they don't stock it in any stores it seems). Free shipping if you get it slower. Last night I resealed the oil pan with ultra grey and replaced the oil pick up o-ring. Saw that the right inner timing belt cover, aside from breaking 3 of the 4 mounting tabs when undoing the bolts, had a little melted plastic on the inside edge near the cam seal so I'm going to replace that one. The left inner cover only had one broken bolt tab and I am going to rig up a zip tie slot as suggested by Fairtax.

Picked up some medium threadlocker...flex plate bolts are now secure. Oil pump was good. Two of the five screws were loose. More threadlocker. Both cam cap o-rings are now fresh. Those cam sprocket bolts were tough. Nothing like using the wrong tools to hold those things. I should have cracked them before I removed the engine. It is so light that torquing on the bolt was moving the block all over. I finally got it with a modification of the method I saw on Beer Garage. I got one cam seal (left) done. Getting the right side out is tough. I'm trying to be careful not to scratch any surfaces. I tried using a self tapping screw to get a hold on the seal, but I think screw was a size too large to be effective and I didn't really get a good bite. After watching again last night, I just need to get more muscle into it with a screwdriver.

Obviously, because I want to know the size. (I wrote out a bunch of reasons but decided to limit response.)

Looks like I shook loose a few replies to older questions. New thread for my question here.

Thanks.

Anyone know the size of the oil pickup o-ring on the EJ22?

Oh yeah, impact screwdriver. Those cover screws were tight...no movement with a regular screwdriver.

Success. Engine is out without too much trouble. At first, I was lifting the entire car, so I did a another double check and looked at the FSM...turns out, I missed the one bolt that is hidden behind the bell housing bracket that holds the three big wire harness connectors. Once I got that, I was able to use the method fairtax suggested...a couple of taps with a small flathead screwdriver to gain a crack and then got a pry bar in there and gave it a couple of prys. Off it popped from the dowels. I think my torque converter stayed in place but I'll know when I start to get it back together and can see the clearance. Rear main seal and wrist pin access cover looked great (I didn't touch the rear main and replaced the wrist pin o-ring). Oil separator plate was the old plastic version and looked as it should. Oil all over that side. Tons of oil on the crossmember underneath that spot. https://imageshack.com/i/n7nf2sj https://imageshack.com/i/ndik5ij How much ultra grey is enough under the new plate? I gave a good smear to cover the width of the seal lip/edge on the engine side. https://imageshack.com/i/nh0uf0j https://imageshack.com/i/nhvzn3j