kabarakh

So... if the defroster button won't stay pushed it would it imply a leak in the vacuum line connecting it right behind it? everything else works great.

Same deal with me, but it's stuck on both ends... so I can't get it out without removing the diff... Just the way it is, but hopefully when it's off the car I'll have better luck... Time will tell!

cool, they were both non-turbos so I should be good to go then. I figured I'd be fine, but the one I got came from a pushbutton, and the one I have has dual-range. Wanted to be sure I could still use both hi and low on it. I got some roll pins wickedly stuck in my axles, and rather then fight it under the car when it comes time to do my wheel bearings I'm just going to throw in my spare differential and some new spare axles I have so I can keep driving while I try to convince my current axles to come out of my differential...

Ospho is the best rust treatment I've ever used. We use it for industrial applications at my work, it's pricey but nothing else works as well in my experience.

Ditto to the above. Videos are titled "the art of subaru maintenance" it's a stepp by step video pictoral that will answer all your questions.

To be slightly more specefic, will the rear differential from a pushbutton 4wd work in a dual range 4wd?

Are the differentials different depending on whether the car has hi/low or just pushbutton 4wd? I know that they will bolt up the same, but is there any difference?

I second rockauto.com Partstrain.com also usually gets me the correct parts. If you're looking for shocks and other suspension parts currently, check out this link by loyale 2.7 turbo... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546 Napa et al might have the upgrades in stock, as they are probably slightly more common then our old subi parts

I unplug the pcv lline at it's "t" fitting and pour it in there, so it passes through the pvc valve into the manifold. I pour it rather then letting the hose suck it out so I can control the flow rate. Some people use the brake booster line too.

looks great! I've been wanting to do that exact thing to my car for quite some time now, but just haven't had the chance... Amazing car!

As far as the tap/die goes it's a super oddball size. I tried forever to find one locally and could not. For the bolts I ended up taking a wire wheel at a very low speed and running it along them, cleaned them up pretty good all things considered. For the bolt holes a went to the local PnP and snagged another headbolt which I cleaned up like the others, then I cut it lengthwise in two different directions to make a homemade tap. A small flapper wheel might work too, although this method worked great for me.

It's one of the major features of a weber upgrade, among other things.

It's extremely difficult to kill a Subi. Go for it, or continue to get input here... I guarantee you it isn't dead yet. A shotgun couldn't put one of these badboys down.

Yeah, between her and the car I think I'm a pretty lucky guy! Can't wait to get the new stuff for the ride, I think I almost like hers more than my '88:lol:

Don't I know it! I got the idea after she told me one day that she wanted an old subaru like mine (88 GL) So I found it and fixed it up for her

Well, thanks to the help of everyone on this board I was able to give my girlfriend her birthday present yesterday! 1983 Subaru GL, FWD, with 176k miles on it. Next up is a new exhaust, weber carb, and fixing the rear power windows Many thanks to all on this board for all the help!

Just to follow up... I think you were in fact right Naru... My fuse box lost its label in the depths of time, so I just pulled out the fuses one by one. Nothing killed it (although right after that I found the diagram and checked again on the charge fuse specifically) so I think you're original assessment was right. But as you said, who cares an elegant and cheap solution ($1.39 for three diodes at radioshack.) My hats off to you as well Gloyale! This was a fun one.

Naru, thank you! You were correct. The fuse was indeed on the wrong side, so pulling it didn't help, but I followed Cougar's suggestion on the diode value (thank you Cougar!) and wired it in line right after the alternator and now the car shuts off just like it's supposed to:drunk: Appreciate all the input and help! Thank you everyone!

Awesome, somehow I missed that... I'll give it a shot tomorrow! I do again thank you for the help, I was totally lost on what it could be... I'll pull that fuse and report back soon! (and no, you weren't talking to yourself that's why I was asking for values on the diode... because if it's bad obviously I'd like to replace it... but still gotta check if thats the case first.) As Cougar stated, and you confirmed, it's all that would really make sense. I think I was writing my response when you posted your's Naru... I didn't even see it till now.

Maybe I'll take the alternator off of my '88 since I know it's good and throw it into that one... That would verify if it is the alternator or something in the wiring at least.

Yes, (more specifically I pulled the whole plug) and the car dies if the key is off, or if It's on and then I turn the key to off the car will shut down. That's why I was interested in the diode/fuse idea... So I know the problem is in that B/W wire somewhere, but I'm not sure if it's on the alternator end, the ignition end, or if the diode that was referred to earlier has stopped working. (thats why I asked about the value of it earlier, if I can just put a new one inline it sounds like a cheap easy option) However I wouldn't have known what to look at first if it wasn't for all these responses, again thank you to everyone! I'll get this figured out one way or the other

I'm trying to avoid throwing money at it, that's why I asked... a 20 amp fuse is a lot less then a new starter switch. It needed a new alternator anyway. Grounds are already on my list.

That's the most helpful answer to my mind so far! thank you! I'm just not used to having to deal with my car not turning off... not starting is easy lol. And the problem is weird enough and rare enough that I'm just not quite sure what to do next... Do you know the value of the fuse/diode/resistor or whatever it was that they installed?

The more research I do the more I think it could be the diode/resistor... does anyone know the value of that diode so I can pick up the right one?

Would you put your money on it being the alternator or something somewhere else? I'd had to return this, get a different one, and then be in the same spot... Thats kinda why I was leaning towards upgrading/double checking my grounds and doing the ignition switch first.