jmoss5723

No idea about your warranty, or if spacers are the "best" way, but you can find them here, among other places: http://www.subtle-solutions.com/index.php?cPath=21_23_168&osCsid=0b6496966bc30936e161aa107364f332

If it happens again, I'll report back. It was doing it for almost a year since right after a brake job. Definitely brake pulsing. But it seems to be all better now. Drove 50 miles or so today with no issues at all.

No idea what changed, but today when I got in the car, everything was perfect. Last night I put on the rotors, drove it, and the pulsing was horrible. Today it was totally gone. All I did was hope and pray I'd figure it out, but I didn't "fix" anything. Odd.

My wife's 2002 Outback H6 has had a pulsating brake pedal ("warped rotor" feeling) for almost a year. I've basically replaced everything, but the problem persists. I don't know what it is that I'm missing. It started after I did a full change of pads and rotors on the front last fall (only 1 or 2k miles ago). I installed ceramic pads and told her to do the simple break-in procedure when she drove it later that day. Well, she didn't do it and I blamed the pulsing on that and told her it was her own fault and that she could live with it. Last week, I needed to change the rear pads and I did the rear rotors while I was at it. Nothing changed in the pulsing pedal, but I didn't expect it to. Today I changed the front rotors and I think the pulsing is now WORSE! With new rotors all around, no stuck calipers, etc. what could be causing this?!

My brother ended up starting his own thread for this. there are more ideas and answers there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158991-96-impreza-cranks-but-wont-start/

He was sure that he set the timing right. He pulled the covers and reset the timing, still nothing. We pulled the plugs and they look pretty bad. We'll install some good plugs and try again, but it would be a little bit weird that it ran fine before the timing failure and now the plugs are suddenly so bad that it won't start. So I'm betting the plugs are not the problem. We're also going to change the fuel filter to see if maybe its not getting enough fuel. Low fuel AND low spark AND TB failure would be quite the coincidence, but I guess anything is possible.

The car is a 96 with a non-interference engine. I'm betting my brother put the belt on with the crankshaft off 180 degrees. He's out there tearing it apart to figure it out right now.

This is what I was thinking. Unfortunately, my brother finished up the TB change, not me. So I can't be sure without tearing the covers off and looking. Back to the garage, I guess.

Phase 1 EJ22 had an idler blow itself apart and jumped time. While we had it all apart, we replaced all TB components, water pump, thermostat, accessory belts, and valve cover gaskets. Did an oil change, and coolant flush and replacement. Now it has a strong crank, but won't start. Just turns over with the starter. It seems like everything is hooked up. What am I missing? Should I just keep cranking and pray?

You could, but a lot of the parts are identical. Most of the posts in this thread discuss swapping the parts that you need to swap and not messing with the ones that you don't need to mess with. Why do more work for no gain?

I'm in for 1 or 2.

When we bought my brother's 98 Impreza it had 14 inch wheels. They should fit with no problem.

Just read the thread, man. Come on.

All the other pics in the thread show up fine, but the most recent ones look like this:

Please repost the pictures so we can see them. This is sounds awesome.

Almost forgot to put the pics up! With the OEM plastic splash guard/mud flap things removed, there is no rubbing.

I think I love you.

Dang. That car is GONE. I'm not sure whether you're brave for taking that project on, or just crazy.

I saw this VW Rabbit with a goose neck today and thought you might find it inspirational.

I hate that when I use the washer on my windshield, my wipers screech across my dry dirty windshield before the washer fluid has made the windshield sufficiently wet. Does anyone know how to make it so that there is a delay between when the sprayer sprays and the wipers begin wiping? Or, maybe more easily, just make it so that the sprayer just sprays, then I can run the wipers independently when I want to. If no one has this documented, I'd be satisfied with just a wiring diagram. Then I'll figure it out myself and document it. The car in question is a 2004 Forester, but I'd love to make the same modification to my other cars, as well.

This job is REALLY easy. Like an hour in the driveway easy. Not sure what a shop would charge because it is so easy I've always just done it myself. If you pay a shop to do it, don't let them gouge you. The gaskets are pretty inexpensive and the labor is minimal. Just remove battery and washer bottle, remove plastic air intake, unplug the wires from the spark plugs, undo 12 (or maybe 16?) bolts, change the gasket, put it back together. It takes one guy, a 10mm wrench, and a 12mm wrench. Couldn't be easier.

Your car is working exactly how it should, maybe a little rough, though. The auto trans in your car does not evenly split power to all 4 wheels. In D, the default split front/rear before any wheel spin is like 90/10 or 80/20. In 1, it is 60/40. The "harsh thud" is after the AWD system compensates for the wheel spin by transferring more power to the rear. Ideally, there is no harsh thud, but the power transfers you're describing are right on.

I VERY rarely use dealer parts. Basically only if I have to. If you buy a reputable brand on Rock Auto, Amazon, or eBay, chances are good that you will be ok. Engine internals, thermostat, and CV axles seem to be the only OEM replacement parts I buy.

New Gen Lift Pattern.pdf This lift spacer template should really be in this thread. Just print, cut out, and trace. One important note is that the rear spacer WILL NOT WORK on a 1st gen Impreza strut. If you are not swapping to Forester or Outback struts, you will need to use a different template for a rear spacer. The good news is that you car comes equipped with it's very own template: the steel plate covering the rear strut top.

If you decide to make the spacers yourself (The plastic cuts really easy and it is really cheap). For the rears, use the steel plate that covers the strut top in your car for the template. You can make both spacers in under an hour with a band saw and a hole saw. You can do it with a hacksaw or coping saw and a big drill bit, too but it'll take a little bit longer.